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Lee Cobb

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  1. yup, we kept them in order since removing them originally
  2. Allow me to restate: The crank was ground to .010 and the bearings were replaced with .010 bearings. We do have the original shims, but at this moment none are being used. Does anyone have any documentation on those and placement?
  3. Evening all, We are in the middle of rebuilding a 1940 248 engine and come upon a interesting issue. According to Motors Auto Repair Manual the bolts for the main bearings are supposed to be torqued to 90-100 Ft. Lbs. The issue is that once we hit about 55 Ft Lbs we can no longer turn the shaft. Standard bearings and crank are .010 over and are smooth as silk up to that torque. Anyone have any input?
  4. Awesome, did not know that that even existed with them. Have a copy of the judging standards we have been using as a reference. Guess we will make that a priority! Really appreciate everyones input on here as well!
  5. So at what point would you switch to an undercoating? id assume they would have done something different under the car...? And would the body color have carried on into the inside of the fenders and wells? oh to have a delorean time machine to go back and look LOL
  6. Originally it was Color 546 - Acadia Grey, but we are actually going to be changing it to 545 - Bandelier Blue. Somewhere I thought I had come across some images that showed the engine bay and firewall semigloss black (same as the frame) which is why I was trying to see where it started. The great googleage showed them both ways, heres an example of a super, ours is a special. Not sure if there was any difference in it. Just trying to make as accurate as possible so as not to get point deductions. Only wanna paint once! 😉
  7. guess ill be picking up a micrometer!
  8. Anyone happen to know where the engine compartment "started" as far as where body paint stopped and black (I'm assuming here) engine compartment started? red or green arrows? Also were all the "attachments" (horn brackets, ignition coil bracket, ect) painted as well? We were looking at using POR-15 possibly if it is allowed. Planning on this being a show car and wanting to be as "true" as possible while still offering rust protection.
  9. looks like two on each side. I've only pulled one so far...
  10. Buick Brain Trust I seek your knowledge! Rebuilding a 1940 Model 41 and have poured through the forums here and seen some information both ways in terms of keeping the babbitt bearings or changing to insert type. The thought is to be a road and show quality when complete, so I do expect to put some miles on it. Just pulled two rods and they need some love... see below Overall thoughts?
  11. Awesome, thank you so much for the visual as well! Extremely helpful!
  12. Trying to remove the crank housing so I can mount the engine to a stand to work on it. Catch is I can’t seem to get it off! I’ve removed 4 bolts, two on each side of the engine, and the pan off the bottom. It looks like there is one all the way at the top of the housing on the inside? But couldn’t see exactly... thoughts? Paint color wise, it is supposed to be the same as the engine correct? Thanks!
  13. Yeah I have two shields. Just was able to see them when I crawled under a few minutes ago. So it does seem like there is a spring attached to the rear panel.
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