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Bill3747

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About Bill3747

  • Birthday 10/26/1946

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  1. I realize that the value of something is what someone is willing to pay for it, but is anyone willing to venture an educated opinion of the value of a 1965 Buick Special/Skylark NOS radiator core support for the cross flow radiator. Thanks in advance.
  2. Thanks Gary. I followed your restoration and was totally impressed with your work. Your work on your vent windows is a great help for me. The one difference with the rear quarter vents is how the actual vent window is joined to the outer frame. I think as I mentioned I'll just file off the metal that holds the disc and spring and separate them that way. As for the dome light. I noticed that you had the lens removed to have the frame chromed. It seems to me that you would have to cut slots in the metal lip and pry it back to remove the plastic lens. Bill
  3. Thanks for your reply Matt, but I see I could have been clearer with my question. I already have the quarter vent window units removed from the car. What I want to do is separate the actual vent window with its frame from the outer frame unit so I can have them re-chromed. The shaft on the bottom of the unit has a round disc that holds a spring. I'm assuming that this spring and disc have to be removed so that the shaft can pass through the hole in the outer frame because I believe the shaft is permanently attached to the actual vent window. To re-assemble I'm thinking I could drill and tap the end of the shaft to install the spring and disc with a screw. Just didn't know if I was missing something and trying not to mess things up. Also with the dome light I want to remove the plastic lens from the frame to have the frame re-chromed. The lip inside the frame wraps over the edge of the lens an holds them tightly together. Can't quite figure it out and I'm surprised I haven't broken the lens already.
  4. LOOKING FOR THE BEST WAY TO SEPARATE THE REAR QUARTER VENT WINDOW FROM THE OUTSIDE WINDOW FRAME. SEEMS LIKE THE LOWER SHAFT WOULD BE THE PLACE TO START BECAUSE IT WOULD EITHER HAVE TO COME OUT OF THE VENT WINDOW OR THE END CAP AND SPRING WOULD HAVE TO BE REMOVED SO THE SHAFT COULD PASS THROUGH THE OUTSIDE FRAME. ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS IS APPRECIATED BEFORE I START FORCING THINGS. ALSO LOOKONG FOR METHOD OF SEPARATING DOME LIGHT LENS AND FRAME.
  5. This came from a Buick dealership that closed over 30 years ago. Not found in the many Buick parts manuals that I have. The only reference to the part number that I have ever found was from Delco Remy listed as obsolete. Have seen pictures of many similar switches but nothing to match this. The wiring is about 5 feet long and the electrical connection has 2 spades side by side.
  6. Looking for application for Delco Remy Back-up Light Switch - Group No. 2.698 - Part No. 1993383. Thanks.
  7. Stay safe, Matt. If any doubt err on the side of safety and find a more secure location. You're definitely in my thoughts and will be praying for all of you in the path of this storm. Bill
  8. Thanks Gary and Don for your input. Just trying to avoid surprises or possible problems since this is my first attempt at pulling an engine. Bill
  9. I picked up some longer head bolts and plan to remove it with the head on.
  10. Ready to pull the engine on my 37 special but could use a little advice from those of you who have experience with this. I have everything removed from the cowl forward and all external items are removed from the engine, so everything is clear. My main question is where to separate the drive train for removal of the engine. Seems like I have read a lot of conflicting information on this, Advice on consulting a shop manual is generally good, but if it's in the 37 manual I sure haven't been able to find it. My plan is to remove the transmission with the engine. Is the best place to separate the four bolts that attach the torque tube to the torque ball? Would that also be the easiest point to connect when reinstalling the engine. Also would it be necessary to remove the transmission support brace or just disconnect the mount on the transmission? I'd appreciate any advice. Bill
  11. I believe this is what you're looking for. Bill
  12. I have a question concerning the logo in the picture in Post #1. It looks like two letter P's placed back to back and touching at the top but separated at the bottom. This picture also shows a Kelsey Hayes stamping. I have a couple of Motor Wheel Co. wheels that are also stamped with this logo. Were Motor Wheel Co. and Kelsey Hayes connected at some point? I also have a couple of 15X5.5 wheels that are stamped ELECTROFUSE Made in U.S.A. and have a logo of a letter M over a letter W within a circle also stamped on the wheel. Could this have possibly been related to Motor Wheel Co.? These wheels were non original and were on my 1947 Super for probably at least 40 years so I don't know year of manufacture. However I bought another 15X5.5 wheel from French Lake Auto Parts that is a perfect match for these wheels except the word ELECTROFUSE and the logo are not visible. French Lake advertised this wheel as being from a 1954 Buick. I don't see that size wheel listed in 1954, but starting in 1955. Your thoughts are appreciated. Will try to attach a couple of pictures. Bill
  13. Looking to buy a pair of 15X5.5 wheels to complete a set of five to use on my '47 Super. Car originally used 16" wheels that were standard on almost all of the 1941-1947 Specials and Supers. After a lot of searching I was not able to find a full set of the original 16" wheels, and needed to replace my tires, so I decided continue with 15" wheels. I wasn't sure of the actual width of my wheels and needed another 15" wheel for a spare, so I pulled one of the front wheels so I could take measurements, and determined it was 5.5". I found a 15X5.5 wheel from French Lake Auto Parts that they listed for a 1954 Buick so I took a chance and ordered it. The wheel arrived and matched in appearance and the hubcap fit so I ordered my new set of tires. Then it got more interesting. I put the car on jack stands pulled all four wheels an removed the tires so I could refinish all of the wheels. That's when I discovered that I did have 15X5.5 wheels but only two of the four that were on the car. On the other two, one was 6" wide and the other was 6.5" wide. The wheel that I ordered from F.L.A.P. is a perfect match for two 5.5" wheels that were on the car, but I'm not sure what year Buick used them. I didn't find them listed for 1954 but possibly starting in 1955. I'll include a picture of what one of these looks like. Total outside dimensions are 16.5" diameter and 6.5" wide. There are 5 hubcap clips. The diameter across the ridge where the hubcap rests is about 10" and it is indented about 1/4" for the inside lip of the hubcap. For an additional check the hubcap that fits this wheel is 11" outside diameter and 9 3/4" inside opening that fits over the clips. Thanks for any help. Bill
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