EmTee

After the engine cools, drain a small amount of oil from the pan and check for any sign of coolant in the oil. A leakdown test will identify a failed head gasket or other cylinder leak into the water jacket. If you know someone with an exhaust gas analyzer they can 'sniff' the coolant at the radiator cap to check for exhaust gas in the coolant.

Looks brighter (and bigger) already!

Found it! https://forums.aaca.org/topic/385959-first-gen-touching-up-silver-on-dash/#comment-2435941

Whew!

Which I hear is becoming more difficult these days...

Is that the famous "Soupe DeVille"?

Check over in the Riviera forum - I think someone there found a chrome 'paint pen' that did a good job on the plastic outline edges on plastic, such as surrounding gauges on the dashboard. I want to say it was @RivNut who had tried it...

My '67 Riviera is not even breaking a sweat at 70. Just remember to glance at the gas gauge now and then...

Coolant coming out of the overflow tube may simply mean the radiator is over full. The level should be about 2 inches (5 cm) below the filler neck when cold to allow for expansion when hot.

I would ask to see the PHS paperwork...

Your car is a 1967 model with the 430 cubic inch engine, correct? Where is the leak - at the thermostat housing? Was the radiator flow tested?

I like it -- the colors look great!

This is precisely the new car that I lusted for in my senior year of high school...

Oh boy -- THAT sounds tasty!

How long has the wait been so far?

Lovely looking Buick! It certainly looks at home in Ft. Lauderdale.

I agree, yours looks pristine. They are indeed rare on Rivieras; and Buicks of this era in general. I once found one on top of the gas tank in a '74 Nova. Sometimes also wedged into the rear seat springs. I think a couple of Riviera owners have found them behind the LF kick panel.

On a '67 Riviera? I suggest you post your questions on the Riviera forum. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/73-buick-riviera/ People will assume questions posted here are related to an A-Body GS. Anyway, I'm pretty sure you'll need to remove the dash pad and access them from above. (I'll have to look at my shop manual to confirm that...)

Any good quality 10W-30 or 10W-40 will work. I have been using 10W-40 Castrol GTX in my '67 since my father had accumulated a stockpile. The VR-1 would certainly be a good choice. If the car has higher mileage and given the location, 20W-50 will also be fine.

I would not inflate any tire beyond the maximum load inflation pressure shown on the sidewall. Watch tread wear; if the center starts wearing faster, reduce the pressure.

Where did you find yours?

Thanks for that summary! I think it makes sense that the rectangular head appeared with introduction of the column lock in 1969. Like I said, I definitely recall my father's '68 Chevy pickup had the octagon key, like our '66 Catalina. The '70 Catalina we had definitely had the rectangular key. I guess I should get the keys for my '67 Riviera remade using the correct blanks...

Where (generally) is the car located? A thorough detailing will definitely help the presentation. If the car will still be sitting after the battery is charged it may make more sense to just disconnect the battery. It can be reconnected to move or show the car.

I wonder whether coating thickness/build-up would also be a concern with powder coating, particularly at the joints. Then, there's the touch-up problem as well. Seems like paint is the right choice. The material price hike is ridiculous, however. Lately I find myself falling back into my 1980s habit of not delaying purchases any longer than necessary in an attempt to get ahead of increasing prices...

I think I like the split front bumpers.