EmTee

Beautiful! Maybe it doesn't even need to run...

I miss Radio Shack...

I wonder how they figured the price...

She's come a long way!

Since this thread is 4 years old the plugs are likely long gone by now. I suggest shopping CARS for plugs for your '41: https://oldbuickparts.com/

Personally, if this is a replacement engine, I see it as a positive - particularly since it was done as Buick specified. Given it would be a factory replacement engine, I consider it as 'original' (as if that matters anyway...). It's a beautiful Buick, so drive it and enjoy the ride!

Looking good, Brian! I looked but didn't see the breaker plate ground wire on your distributor. You can see mine is on the vacuum advance screw with the other end attached at the cap retainer. I wasn't sure whether under the vacuum advance screw was correct, but that's where it was and I don't see any other option...

Ah, I missed that. I would still give them a call to see what they say.

The trouble is, by the time I start spitting I'm too angry to think straight!

That could still be the case here with @roadmaster_56's car. Isn't there a second serial number on the front of the block hidden behind the water pump? If so and if that is blank (missing) that might suggest that this is indeed a replacement block installed by a Buick dealer's service department. Aside from that, the only way to know for sure would be to find documentation hiding somewhere inside the car (e.g., under a seat).

That's another possibility - 1.6 rocker where a 1.5 was needed. Something else to check. The fact that these stiffer pushrods are buckling really suggests a valve spring bind issue. (That assumes it isn't valve float induced by the 7500 RPM tachometer redline...) Edit: I assumed the rub was due to the pushrod beginning to bend. If it's rubbing simply because it's too fat for the hole in the head, that's something else...

Judging from the detached rocker molding, failed brake line, location (eastern NY) and price, I suspect the underside of this car is severely compromised by corrosion. It may, however, have useful parts to help someone with a similar car with a body in better condition.

I'm curious to see how they tie the new and old walls together and how they deal with the sill interface.

I would lose the Edelbrock and find (or rebuild) the original Quadrajet. It's ironic that you have to use a square-bore adapter on top of the spread-bore nailhead intake manifold. I'll bet there are several people on this forum who would gladly swap manifolds with you...

That was my first thought also...

The engine number stamp looks authentic to me, given it has the six as "b" and the number one as "I". I can't explain the block color (or lack thereof). Maybe it was rebuilt previously after some mishap despite what seems to be low mileage.

Yes, that had me scratching my head too. I think your plan sounds good - best not to disturb the footing if it is now stable. I'm interested to see how they pour the repair section...

That exhaust bracket is a PITA. The one I made broke at that sharp bend at the bellhousing. Mine wasn't as thick as the original, so I guess I need to try again. I have some steel that looks like the right thickness, but it's a b__ch to bend around the pipe circumference without an acetylene torch...

Maybe cut some 3/16" (or 1/4"?) vacuum hose to length so that it fills the gap and is held in place by the lid? Or leave it open and enjoy the sound of the AFB gulping air at WOT!

That ^^^. Now that the 'what' has been answered, the next question to be answered is 'why'...?

Looks like Egge lists them: https://egge.com/product/buick-242cid-6-cyl-1917-20/

A picture of the engine ID showing the stamping might help someone answer the question.

Here's an excerpt from the table located here: https://www.buicks.net/shop/reference/engine_ident_52.php This suggests that your engine (4-4146738) falls within the range of values for 1941 production. Is there any other color under the black?

Smooooth looking Buick!

If the rust-through is just the outer skin and the support behind it is OK, welding-in a patch should be straightforward. Buying another fender will probably still involve fixing (as Bernie noted) and then you'll have the additional cost associated with removal and installation.