roadmaster_56

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About roadmaster_56

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/01/1952

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Santa Cruz CA
  • Interests:
    40's and 50's Buicks, Chryslers and DeSotos

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  1. I agree.....in the case of Chrysler products with Fluid Drive, I wonder how 12v conversions were made that accommodated the electrics of the tranny. Anyone done this....? ...........Anyone? see attached diagram.
  2. I'm afraid you're right about the lack of incentive.......although I bet a lot of aging "baby boomers" (myself included) own the majority of pre and post war 6v cars. One would think as they age they'd want a little relief from the "heavy steer" and would create demand for a 6v system......just a guess.
  3. In ’46 and ’47, New Yorkers were factory equipped with 7.00 x 15. In ’48 they came with larger “low pressure” 8.20 x15’s to improve the ride. Fenders were modified to accept the bigger tires. When I first got the Chrysler, it came with L78-15 wide whites bias ply. Awful…. heavy steering…I’ve piloted trucks that were easier to steer. Handling was lousy too. Because of their age, I replaced them with 205/75 X 15’s radials. (I won’t go back to bias ply because of the many benefits of radials.) The 205’s were cheap and meant to be temporary until I found the right tire. I run them at 48-50 lbs., which results in a hard ride, but somewhat lessons the effort (not enough though). Having driven many vehicles over many years, I’ve always followed the advice of “a moving wheel is easier to turn” when parking…so I creep and turn. From what I’ve read, electric systems require the least amount of “retrofitting hassle” and installation is pretty straight forward…. much less so than a rack and pinion hydraulic system or other alternatives. I don’t want to change the original 6v pos to 12 v neg because there are specific relays for the Fluid Drive tranny that should be left as is @ 6v. Otherwise I might have considered 12v neg conversion. FYI….I’ve also got the same issue with another car I own; a 50 Buick Super. The factory tire spec is 7.60 by 15. I replaced those tires with appropriate 235/70 x 15 Diamond Back wide whites…. same problem - very heavy at low speed. In fact you can see the steering wheel give a little when cranking it around for parking. Once under way it’s fine. In the case of the Buick, I may try to install the factory designed system from a ’52, (Buick’s first year of power steering)— IF I can find one. Advice to “just not parallel park” isn’t realistic unless you live in, say…. Montana or Kansas. Where I live, we have traffic, crowded streets and tight parking lots. All require low speed agility. I drive my cars daily for errands and pleasure; and don’t want their use to be limited by really heavy steering. Back to the original question…. where can I find a 6 volt positive ground electric add on steering system? Other suggestions? Work around to incorporate 12v system while keeping the 6v?
  4. Has anyone come across an electric power steering conversion kit for a 6 volt positive ground system? I've got a 48 Chrysler New Yorker that has radials that are grippier and wider than the original 8.20 x 15 bias ply. Despite stories about little old ladies muscling these front heavy rigs without breaking a sweat, (straight 8's blocks weigh about 800 lbs w/accessories), they weren't fitted with radials....which make these beasts to parallel park. So, not wanting to give up the benefits of radials, I'm trying to find another solution. I've seen many add on 12 volt negative systems but no 6v pos systems. Thanks for any leads you can provide. David in Santa Cruz
  5. Thanks c49er and Rusty for your advice. I'd be interested to know if the 6 cylinder damper would work as a friend of mine has a spare 6 damper (I think). What is interesting is that the timing seems to be spot on. When I first got the car, the timing mark pointer was gone, all that was left was an indent where a weld once held the pointer. I measured the piston travel through the supplied hole in the head at #8 cyl, then installed the pointer where the other had been -- and it lined up perfectly. I also noticed that the anti-sway bar bracket on the drivers side was bent which suggests the the previous owner may have hit something low (there was no damage to the bumper or sheet metal). I wonder if she hit something like a tree stump and it hit the vibration damper and timing pointer. That may explain why the damper is not true... any other guesses? Thanks David in Santa Cruz
  6. Well, I think I've FINALLY tracked down the engine vibration on my 48 New Yorker 8 cylinder. To recap, I'd get a strong vibe through the steering wheel and the body from idle through about 2000 rpm. This occurres at rest or while driving. I was helping a friend d/x some tranny problems on his newly acquired 47 Windsor when he looked at my engine and spotted my lower pulley/vibration damper wobbling. I checked out his Windsor for comparison.... what a difference! So, either I have a bad vibration damper or, it is on cockeyed. Having read the factory manual, which isn't clear on removing the v/b, I still have some questions: Do I need to remove the radiator and the tray which runs from the grille to the front of the engine? Are there any special tools/tricks needed to remove the vibration damper? How many foot pounds of torque are needed on the bolts/nuts when tightening down the v/d? Where would I find a replacement vibration damper? (checked Bernbaums's and Robert's, no listing for a v/d). Who rebuilds vibration dampers? Thanks, David in Santa Cruz
  7. I've been reading the previous posts on the composition of "Fluid Drive" fluid. The most often recommended fluid is hydraulic oil #134 - iso 32, aka "tractor fluid" which I am using at present; (iso is a viscosity index btw). I have read that the original Chrysler Fluid Drive fluid was closer in composition/iso to hydraulic fluid with an iso of about 25. As far as I know, there is no hydraulic fluid with an iso of 25 available in small quantities. Has anyone tried mixing hydraulic fluid iso 22 and 32 in a 65/35 blend to replicate more closely the Chrysler fluid? If so, did you notice and "off the line" increase in performance? Where can one purchase small quantities of iso 22 hydraulic fluid (one quart or one gallon). Thanks David in Santa Cruz
  8. Hello everyone: I've got a question about Fluid Drive shifting for those of us with Chrysler 8 cylinder models 1946-48. I hope I get a good cross section of opinions. At what speed do you let your Fluid Drive 8 cyl upshift, in regular driving? At what speed do you let your Fluid Drive 8 cyl upshift in "spirited" driving? Thanks, David in Santa Cruz
  9. A friend just purchased a Dodge truck engine and we're trying to tell what year it is, can anyone help? Thanks Here's what we know: Dodge truck engine 6 cylinder 230 ci engine number T334*72648*
  10. Morning everyone: I've decided to replace my wobbly king pins. I just ordered a rebuild set from Bernbaum's at approximately $245 OUCH -- I have a New Yorker 8cyl, the 6's are about $55. I've got the Chrysler shop manual which I plan to follow as my guide. Any tips or advice you can give me before I start; your experience replacing them? Thanks David Santa Cruz, CA
  11. Hi, Could someone out there who has a chrysler parts book tell me if the front and rear shock absorbers from a 48 chrysler are the same as the front and rears from a 49? Most shock sources only go back to 49. Has anyone had any luck finding KYB shocks (front/rear) for a 48 Chrysler, if so, would you share the part numbers with me? I have KYB's on my 56 Desoto and like them very much, I'd like to stick with them. Thanks David Santa Cruz, CA
  12. I was talking with a wise old fella yesterday about his 49 Special equipped with a Dynaflow. He decided to bypass the original transmission cooler and instead mounted an external unit in front of the radiator (actually he scrounged a single pass cooler for a Toyota Tundra from the parts yard!). He reasoned the original cooler by design or through age was not very good at cooling the tranny fluid. He claimed that he picked up about 3 more miles per gallon in fuel mileage. While I wouldn't mind a bit better gas mileage, what I'd really like is a bit snappier acceleration and tranny longevity. I know -- its a Dynaflow so I shouldn't expect too much off the line improvement. I'd be interested in trying it, what do you think?. I have a 50 Super and a 57 Cabellero wagon.... both leak (surprise!!http://forums.aaca.org/images/smilies/eek.gif) BTW, has anyone tried with success ,White Shepherd Transmission Stop Leak? My 50 is leaking at the torque converter, probably the seal. Thanks David Santa Cruz CA
  13. Thanks guys, I'm gonna check out the motor mounts next. Any suggestions as to the best way to check? Maybe get a strong buddy and try to rock the engine back and forth? Had that problem in a 66 Riveria, but it was easy to check....just had to torque it up against the brake and the engine would twist/lift about 2" off the broken mount. Thanks David Santa Cruz CA