roadmaster_56

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About roadmaster_56

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/01/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Santa Cruz CA
  • Interests:
    40's and 50's Buicks, Chryslers and DeSotos

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261 profile views
  1. All: Certainly getting a lot of good history on Dexron, any advice on how much to tighten the 2 small brass drain plugs in the torque converter?
  2. Marty: That's true, but original Type A is hard/impossible to find and has been replaced by various iterations of Dexron. I've heard that, unfortunately those changes in the formula are "further away" from the original than current "Type F" and make the Dynaflow less responsive, especially during acceleration. Be interesting to know if anyone has tested this theory. Bloo: thanks for that info...I'm getting an education on A, F, and Dex... Another thought just occurred.....wonder if the tranny parts people at Fatsco might have some answers?
  3. I've looked in all my Buick repair books but I can't find the torque values for the two small 7/16" brass drain plugs in the torque converter of my '50 Dynaflow.....Does anyone know how tight to torque them? I'd rather be safe than have to replace the torque converter due to over tightening/stripping..... Also has anyone run straight" Type F" fluid in their ('50) Dynaflow. I'm contemplating this because I've heard that "Type F" is closer to the original formulation that was used in Dynaflows. Also heard that Dexron's composition has morphed over the years and creates more slip on acceleration, where Type F is "grippier". Any long term problems with using "Type F"? Thank you, David in Santa Cruz
  4. I’ve got a follow up question to the replacement of the torque tube spline shaft seal for my ’50 Super w/Dynaflow. Has the original design of the spline shaft seal been updated/improved for better sealing and durability? If so: 1. Who has the best quality seal? 2. Who do recommend purchasing from Fatsco, Bob’s Automobilia, CARS, or another source? Thanks David in Santa Cruz
  5. Yes, absolutely, the diff fluid will become diluted w/tranny fluid and if not replaced will ruin same. I installed the drain tube straight down....6 o'clock position, figuring to drain from the lowest spot within the torque tube. Was considering running a line from the fitting to some kind of container to spare my driveway, but decided to resolve the issue at the source. Been putting off replacing the spline seal for 3 years.....but with covid.....might as well go for it....what else is there to do?
  6. Thanks all for your info re: the spline shat seal. Any additional info is welcomed. Kestral: the big (and expensive) clue to the leaking spline shaft seal is tranny fluid saturating your rear brakes. Eventually the fluid gets pushed past the rear axle seals and drips into the brakes, ruining the linings. Usually you'll see (from under the car w/o taking the wheel off) wetness on the backing plate and tire. This happened on my 57 wagon as well as the 50 Super. Once the shoes are soaked, you've got to toss 'em....I even tried boiling them in a pot of water....but the fluid keeps seeping out....linings absorb like a sponge. Regarding the 3/8" pipe, I've done exactly that, drilled and tapped a small hole in the torque tube, then fitted a shortened brake line to it, just ahead of the differential so the fluid could drain out, before forcing its way into the diff. Not a complete solution....... but a fluid soaked driveway is easier/cheaper to deal with than a brake job. Hope that helps.
  7. Hello: My 50 Buick Super has the familiar Dynaflow leak that fills up the rear end with tranny fluid. I’m about to tear into the torque tube to replace the spline shaft seal. Not disassembled yet, but viewing from the outside, the torque ball itself seems dry and to be in good shape. My question is this: will replacing the spline seal eliminate the source of leak down the torque tube to the rear end, or should I be searching for another leak “further up the line” that may be “feeding” the leak at the spline shaft seal? I'm trying to determine why fluid is being pushed past the spline shaft with enough force to make the seal fail. I really only want to do this once…. Any recommendations about sourcing the best quality parts to use? Steele vs Bob’s Automobilia Vs ???. Thank you. David in Santa Cruz, CA
  8. Dave Fields: That was not a criticism by any means.......it was theorizing as to why he stopped his blog. I'm happy his his business is doing so well, and it's understandable with its volume he may not have time to finish the project. By the way, after I learned of his company email, I wrote to Matt directly with the same post and have not yet heard back from him. I hope he responds, better yet, I hope he continues the 41 saga.
  9. Possibly he just doesn't have the time to complete the '41 Buick project (or others). Visited his Harwood Motors site and he lists 527 vehicles sold....must keep him busy. http://www.harwoodmotors.com/vehicles/inventory_sold_results.php
  10. Can anyone recommend a really good shop in the San Jose/San Francisco/ central coast area of California, that can perform a front end alignment on 40's and 50's (48 Chrysler)? Most important: a place that has the skill/knowhow to set up the front end for radial tires rather than just following the manual's bias ply settings? Also, one that can straighten out front suspension components if they are tweaked? (hope this isn't the case) Thanks David in Santa Cruz
  11. This is an open letter to Matt as I couldn't find a way to p/m him. Hi Matt: Years ago I began following the progress of your '41 Roadmaster Sedanette via your website. It seems that you stopped the restoration and I was wondering if you had restarted it again? Your documentation of the project was entertaining and a valuable restoration tool, that is missed by me (and others, I suspect). If you still have the Roadmaster, would you consider finishing and documenting the saga for....."the rest of the story"? Thank you, David Daggett Santa Cruz, CA PS. I own the '41 Buick Special Sedanette below and I'm a member of your '41 Registry.
  12. I agree.....in the case of Chrysler products with Fluid Drive, I wonder how 12v conversions were made that accommodated the electrics of the tranny. Anyone done this....? ...........Anyone? see attached diagram.
  13. I'm afraid you're right about the lack of incentive.......although I bet a lot of aging "baby boomers" (myself included) own the majority of pre and post war 6v cars. One would think as they age they'd want a little relief from the "heavy steer" and would create demand for a 6v system......just a guess.