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About roadmaster_56

  • Birthday 05/01/1952

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  1. ...Just got the response below to my WTB for "complete power steering set up from a '52 Buick Roadmaster ' post. I checked the respondent's email and several people have complained of being scammed by him/her/it....you can check for yourself by googling "jamieretmag@gmail.com"....seems to have 100 or so different emails with which to scam. Save yourself the aggravation, always check first before responding. Merry Christmas to you too jamieretmag ...... "Hi and Merry Christmas, We are dealers in Complete Power Steering set . We are located in Oakland CA and can arrange delivery. Please email me on jamieretmag@gmail.com or (747) 204-3620"
  2. I have a working mechanical temperature gauge, but when the engine is up to normal operating temperature (checked with infrared gun) the gauge only moves very slightly. Is there any way to adjust the unit so the needle reads toward the middle of the "normal" range as per the photo below? Thanks.
  3. Hello: I need to replace the gas tank in my 48 Chrysler New Yorker-- too thin/porous to patch. Chrysler made two size tanks; 20 gal. for 8 cylinders and 17 for 6 cylinders - I need the 20 gal. I want to make sure I get the correct 20 gal and one of good quality (many sources list an 18 gal for the NY’er -- wrong). Question: Does anyone have a source recommendation for a good quality 20 gal. tank based upon their purchase? I’ve got a short list of sources from the web, but have no way of checking them out for quality. Thanks, David in Santa Cruz
  4. Thank you MrEarl for the excellent power steering conversion write up....it contains exactly the info I'm seeking. Do you recommend a rebuild of the steering gear and pump.... if I find one..... or are they (generally) in good shape at their advanced age? I plan to keep the Super's straight 8 (great motor) and eventually add the dual carb setup from a 41 (which I already have). Will that present any clearance problems with the steering box or pump? I'd like this to be my winter project, so I'd better start scouring the parts yards and Craigslist now. The crankshaft double pulley sounds like the hardest item to find....wonder if a good machine shop could duplicate one? If anyone has leads to parts on my list please let me know. Thanks. David in Santa Cruz
  5. Hello: I'm looking for a complete power steering set up from a '52 Buick Roadmaster (1st year it was available). Must be able to ship to central California. All of the items below are needed: -Steering column with Dynaflow shift lever (don't need the steering wheel) -Steering gear w/power cylinder -pump with pulley -crankshaft double pulley -pitman arm -reservoir -all piping
  6. Thank you Ben, much appreciated......now I can finish my fabrication.
  7. Hello: Does anyone know the length of hood locator pin on a ’50-52 Buick as measured from the backing plate to the tip of the pin? see photo below. I’ve got an early production ’50 Buick with the 1st type of hood hinges and I’m in the process of replacing them with the latter 2nd series. I’m fabricating the locking plates that are welded to the hood, but don’t know the length of the pins. Thanks.
  8. They are radials, but Coker calls them "Bias Ply Look because they resemble bias ply.
  9. Hello All: I recently purchased 4 Coker American Classic Bias Ply Radials (wide white walls) for my 48 Chrysler. I'm having a problem with two of them, after less than 500 miles. I mostly do "around town" driving with an occasional highway run (60-65mph) and I run them between 28-32psi. One has developed a bubble on the sidewall....originally, it was about the size of a quarter, but has shrunk (see photo). The other tire shows "lumpiness" (perhaps banding?) in the whitewall area around the entire circumference of the tire. Has anyone else experienced this problem, and if so, how was it remedied? Opinions please, are they safe for daily driving...just a cosmetic issue or unsafe? I've written Coker several times through their website, but received no response... what to do now? Thank you, David in Santa Cruz
  10. Hello Ben: That would be great if the foot starter worked on 12 volts. Wonder how I could test it without destroying the rest of the system? Re: “preventing starter activation while running”, I recently switched out my Chrysler’s 6v generator and replaced it with a 6 V alternator and ran into that problem…. just gotta remember not to punch the button when the car is running.
  11. Hi Ed: All good suggestions, that I’ve already tried. Pumping up the tires to 32, 35 and eventually 40psi helped somewhat, but it felt like I was riding on wagon wheels. I also attempted to get the front end aligned, with the intent of having them “tweak” the caster/camber for easier steering. Surprisingly, none of the shops around here could work on the Buick (or my other car a 48 Chrysler). Their equipment is digital and relies on lasers to calibrate the settings. They need to hang the sensors on the rear wheels, and to do that they need "full wheel" fender cutouts (aka radiused). Both the Buick and Chrysler have "half wheel" cutouts preventing this…. really a poor design on the part of the alignment machine makers. So far, I haven't been able to find someone around who has the older style "mirrored" equipment. I suppose I could simply trade the 50 in for a 53 Skylark with those nice open wheel wells …wait…. the Skylark comes with P/S…. problem solved! Think I better go out and pick up some lottery tickets.
  12. Can anyone tell me if there is a way to convert to 12 volts on a 50 Buick AND continue to use the gas pedal start? (ie. modify the solenoid and accelerator vacuum switch to 12V, see diagram). The only reason I'm considering converting to 12V is to install electric power steering, because I'm running DiamondBack 225 x15 radials which increases the steering effort A LOT. I'd rather use the complete power steering set up from a 52, but good luck finding all the parts required .... electric is the next best option. I realize that I could easily install a starter button to replace the foot start....but I don't want to do that....I like the uniqueness of hitting the gas to start. If you've done an electric power steering set up on a 50's Buick (or other GM car) with 6v, I'd really like to hear how the conversion went.... IF anyone happens to know where I can get a complete 52 Buick power steering setup including all parts, please let me know... I'd need the following: pump, steering gear, pitman arm, brackets, double crank pulley, column/shaft and anything else needed). If I had these I wouldn't need p/s. Thanks all, David in Santa Cruz
  13. All: Certainly getting a lot of good history on Dexron, any advice on how much to tighten the 2 small brass drain plugs in the torque converter?
  14. Marty: That's true, but original Type A is hard/impossible to find and has been replaced by various iterations of Dexron. I've heard that, unfortunately those changes in the formula are "further away" from the original than current "Type F" and make the Dynaflow less responsive, especially during acceleration. Be interesting to know if anyone has tested this theory. Bloo: thanks for that info...I'm getting an education on A, F, and Dex... Another thought just occurred.....wonder if the tranny parts people at Fatsco might have some answers?
  15. I've looked in all my Buick repair books but I can't find the torque values for the two small 7/16" brass drain plugs in the torque converter of my '50 Dynaflow.....Does anyone know how tight to torque them? I'd rather be safe than have to replace the torque converter due to over tightening/stripping..... Also has anyone run straight" Type F" fluid in their ('50) Dynaflow. I'm contemplating this because I've heard that "Type F" is closer to the original formulation that was used in Dynaflows. Also heard that Dexron's composition has morphed over the years and creates more slip on acceleration, where Type F is "grippier". Any long term problems with using "Type F"? Thank you, David in Santa Cruz
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