Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About roadmaster_56

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/01/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Santa Cruz CA
  • Interests:
    40's and 50's Buicks, Chryslers and DeSotos

Recent Profile Visitors

294 profile views
  1. Thank you MrEarl for the excellent power steering conversion write up....it contains exactly the info I'm seeking. Do you recommend a rebuild of the steering gear and pump.... if I find one..... or are they (generally) in good shape at their advanced age? I plan to keep the Super's straight 8 (great motor) and eventually add the dual carb setup from a 41 (which I already have). Will that present any clearance problems with the steering box or pump? I'd like this to be my winter project, so I'd better start scouring the parts yards and Craigslist now. The crankshaft double pulle
  2. Hello: I'm looking for a complete power steering set up from a '52 Buick Roadmaster (1st year it was available). Must be able to ship to central California. All of the items below are needed: -Steering column with Dynaflow shift lever (don't need the steering wheel) -Steering gear w/power cylinder -pump with pulley -crankshaft double pulley -pitman arm -reservoir -all piping
  3. Thank you Ben, much appreciated......now I can finish my fabrication.
  4. Hello: Does anyone know the length of hood locator pin on a ’50-52 Buick as measured from the backing plate to the tip of the pin? see photo below. I’ve got an early production ’50 Buick with the 1st type of hood hinges and I’m in the process of replacing them with the latter 2nd series. I’m fabricating the locking plates that are welded to the hood, but don’t know the length of the pins. Thanks.
  5. They are radials, but Coker calls them "Bias Ply Look because they resemble bias ply.
  6. Hello All: I recently purchased 4 Coker American Classic Bias Ply Radials (wide white walls) for my 48 Chrysler. I'm having a problem with two of them, after less than 500 miles. I mostly do "around town" driving with an occasional highway run (60-65mph) and I run them between 28-32psi. One has developed a bubble on the sidewall....originally, it was about the size of a quarter, but has shrunk (see photo). The other tire shows "lumpiness" (perhaps banding?) in the whitewall area around the entire circumference of the tire. Has anyone else experienced this probl
  7. Hello Ben: That would be great if the foot starter worked on 12 volts. Wonder how I could test it without destroying the rest of the system? Re: “preventing starter activation while running”, I recently switched out my Chrysler’s 6v generator and replaced it with a 6 V alternator and ran into that problem…. just gotta remember not to punch the button when the car is running.
  8. Hi Ed: All good suggestions, that I’ve already tried. Pumping up the tires to 32, 35 and eventually 40psi helped somewhat, but it felt like I was riding on wagon wheels. I also attempted to get the front end aligned, with the intent of having them “tweak” the caster/camber for easier steering. Surprisingly, none of the shops around here could work on the Buick (or my other car a 48 Chrysler). Their equipment is digital and relies on lasers to calibrate the settings. They need to hang the sensors on the rear wheels, and to do that they need "full wheel" fender cutouts (a
  9. Can anyone tell me if there is a way to convert to 12 volts on a 50 Buick AND continue to use the gas pedal start? (ie. modify the solenoid and accelerator vacuum switch to 12V, see diagram). The only reason I'm considering converting to 12V is to install electric power steering, because I'm running DiamondBack 225 x15 radials which increases the steering effort A LOT. I'd rather use the complete power steering set up from a 52, but good luck finding all the parts required .... electric is the next best option. I realize that I could easily install a sta
  10. All: Certainly getting a lot of good history on Dexron, any advice on how much to tighten the 2 small brass drain plugs in the torque converter?
  11. Marty: That's true, but original Type A is hard/impossible to find and has been replaced by various iterations of Dexron. I've heard that, unfortunately those changes in the formula are "further away" from the original than current "Type F" and make the Dynaflow less responsive, especially during acceleration. Be interesting to know if anyone has tested this theory. Bloo: thanks for that info...I'm getting an education on A, F, and Dex... Another thought just occurred.....wonder if the tranny parts people at Fatsco might have some answers?
  12. I've looked in all my Buick repair books but I can't find the torque values for the two small 7/16" brass drain plugs in the torque converter of my '50 Dynaflow.....Does anyone know how tight to torque them? I'd rather be safe than have to replace the torque converter due to over tightening/stripping..... Also has anyone run straight" Type F" fluid in their ('50) Dynaflow. I'm contemplating this because I've heard that "Type F" is closer to the original formulation that was used in Dynaflows. Also heard that Dexron's composition has morphed over the years and creates more slip
  13. I’ve got a follow up question to the replacement of the torque tube spline shaft seal for my ’50 Super w/Dynaflow. Has the original design of the spline shaft seal been updated/improved for better sealing and durability? If so: 1. Who has the best quality seal? 2. Who do recommend purchasing from Fatsco, Bob’s Automobilia, CARS, or another source? Thanks David in Santa Cruz
  14. Yes, absolutely, the diff fluid will become diluted w/tranny fluid and if not replaced will ruin same. I installed the drain tube straight down....6 o'clock position, figuring to drain from the lowest spot within the torque tube. Was considering running a line from the fitting to some kind of container to spare my driveway, but decided to resolve the issue at the source. Been putting off replacing the spline seal for 3 years.....but with covid.....might as well go for it....what else is there to do?
  15. Thanks all for your info re: the spline shat seal. Any additional info is welcomed. Kestral: the big (and expensive) clue to the leaking spline shaft seal is tranny fluid saturating your rear brakes. Eventually the fluid gets pushed past the rear axle seals and drips into the brakes, ruining the linings. Usually you'll see (from under the car w/o taking the wheel off) wetness on the backing plate and tire. This happened on my 57 wagon as well as the 50 Super. Once the shoes are soaked, you've got to toss 'em....I even tried boiling them in a pot of water....but the fluid
  • Create New...