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roadmaster_56

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About roadmaster_56

  • Birthday 05/01/1952

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  • Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
  • Other Clubs
    BCA 40937

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  1. Thanks for the detailed torque ball repair shots. When I did my t/b repair, despite following the procedure to the letter, it still leaks at the universal joint/tail shaft (see your pic w/detail below). Shop manual photos of early 50's Dynaflows suggest a sleeve over the tip of the shaft....but it's hard to tell and I can't recall if this is so - wish I had taken some pics of my tear down. Wondering if corrosion/pitting of the shaft caused my new seal to weep? If/when I tear into it again, maybe I'll try a Speedi-sleeve
  2. Look familiar?..... from an episode of "Perry Mason" c. 1958. http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_205152-Buick-Special-Estate-Wagon-49-1958.html
  3. The Flight Pitch is a rare beast.....while you're at it, don't forget to check your Rotoflow.....
  4. Looks nice....always liked the look of a nailhead and those upright valve covers. What are you plans for the Dynaflow? Torque ball rebuild? If so, plz share the process w/lots of pictures.
  5. ......well, that's better than the quote I got.... mine: kidney, liver, and left you know what..... 😮
  6. The problem/history: My ’50 Buick Super had the typical rear seal leak, common to Dynaflows. ATF leaked down the torque tube and filled the diff and eventually migrated to the brake drums. Despite my repairs (below), it still INFREQUENTLY dumps 1/4 to 1/2 cup of ATF out of the weep hole I drilled in the torque tube….not always….just randomly. The question: Does the universal joint shaft (sealed by the rear shaft seal) contain a sleeve that is replaceable? See photos. ATF must be leaking past the rear shaft seal AND the spline shaft seal into the torque tube. If the universal joint shaft is pitted or damaged oil will leak past; if the shaft is covred by the sleeve, then perhaps it can be replaced to create a good seal….think speedi-sleeve. Opinions? What was done: I disconnected the torque tube and pulled it back enough to remove and polish the torque ball, replace the torque ball seal/retainer, gaskets, spline shaft seal and universal shaft seal…. adjusted setup to correct “pull” and reassembled all…. I then drilled and tapped a small hole in the torque tube ahead of the differential for to prevent ATF from entering the differential…the weep hole is where it now leaks. There is no leakage around the torque ball. I’d welcome your insights/advice.
  7. Agreed, costly but when they sparkle....mmmmmmm. Unfortunately, to get the best quality, I've heard one must search outside of my state (CA) due to environmental restrictions...if anyone has has had good CA results please share.
  8. Please allow me to sit before discussing the cost of bumper chroming.......😬. Mine need it too....
  9. I just received the Sept. issue of the Buick Bugle. In an article called "Those Wonderful Straight-8 Buicks" on pg. 16 is a photo of a smaller series engine similar to mine with black valve side panels and an unpainted block....hmmmmmm. see photo below. I'll try to locate the number behind the water pump as well as looking at the engine tuned dash panels.
  10. I agree with Dave's & EmTee's take on this.....especially since the 2nd owner was also the proprietor of a Buick dealership..... no big deal getting parts....@ cost.
  11. Am I correct in assuming the "I" and "b" should be read as "1" and "6"....or did Buick use letters mixed with numerals to signify something out of the ordinary? The '41 has an interesting history, owned by a dealer for many years after a trade in....I purchased it from the 3rd owner, Gary Baseley 20+ years ago who (to the best of my recollection) replaced it with a mid 80's Corvette. The only modifications I've made are a Pertronics ignition, a restored period correct radio and battery powered clock using the original face, hands and housing. See article below.
  12. Thank you for the kind words. I just took some photos (below). The block pad is really hard to photograph b/c of its location.....to make it and the number readable, I had to change the photo to black/white. I removed some of the paint w/acetone from the side cover...nothing underneath...The iPhone's flash illuminated the block and it appears that it is unpainted, not black, something I didn't notice before. I also took a shot of the entire engine.....when I first got the '41, the valve cover, spark plug cover and side cover were painted black, I repainted the valve cover and plug cover grey with the early production date in mind. I've also attached pics of the other body tags. I'm thinking now, perhaps the original engine was rebuilt, the block dipped and not repainted....
  13. I’m trying to figure out of my ’41 Buick SSE with ≈27k original miles has a replacement engine or the original unit. The engine block is black and the ID pad number reads 4-4146738, which indicates an early build model. My understanding is that early ’41’s had gray engines up until about mid Jan ’41, then used Dante Red for the remainder of the run, while replacement blocks were black. I believe the low mileage is correct because of the excellent overall condition of the car, the original interior, trunk fabric and dashboard Di-Noc. Does anyone know if replacement engines came with blank ID pads, to allow original number transfers? …..otherwise why the black block? The car is stock in every other respect. Thank you, David in Santa Cruz
  14. I suspect when you restore the mechanicals, you’ll have to work on the Dynaflow’s torque ball and spline shaft seal. I hope you detail the process as well as you have with the painting and trim work as a lot of us suffer with leaky Dynaflows….. My Dynaflow repair…. for what it’s worth: I have a ’50 and ’57 on my “to do” list …(and “re-do” list). Despite my previous repair on the ’50, it still leaks a bit, although not at the torque ball. The leak appears to be at the spline shaft seal (aka propeller shaft seal) where fluid runs past the toothed seal then down the torque to the differential. I have a small hole drilled just before the diff flange for drainage. Without it, the differential would eventually fill with tranny fluid until it was forced out the wheel bearings, contaminating the brake shoes and wearing away the diff gears. Not looking forward to a “redo”, but must learn why the spline seal continues to leak……and how to correct. FYI…I chose not to remove the torque tube completely and not to disconnect the springs, I left them connected and pulled back the tube about 6-8 inches with a winch, keeping the assembly under tension. That allowed me to remove everything and made reinstall/realignment of the tube/splines much easier. Looking forward to your continuing restoration.
  15. Matt: Re: the engine, might want to give the block a careful look for cracks behind the starter. Had to replace my 364 because previous owner must have let it freeze during winter. Very slight leak until it really let go.....p/o did not disclose prior to sale.
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