EmTee

Your secret is safe with us!

It's new enough that there may be junkyards with these or the similar Olds Aurora.

I was going to mention the VW beetle. The longer they kept it looking the same, the more unique it became - so much so that they were compelled to bring it back at the end of the last century...

Don't make them look too nice -- you may begin receiving orders for more!

Exactly! I have a hard time convincing myself that my wife's '93 Allante is a 30 year-old car...

Hmmm... I've heard people call '70' the new '50' when referring to their age. Maybe the same situation is at play for used cars. Perhaps '50' is the new '30' (or 25). Most cars like the subject of this thread were driven hard, 'used up' and discarded. Exceptions like this one do pop-up occasionally and appear modern enough that they don't stick out the way a 1940 __________ (fill-in the blank) would have in 1970. Case-in-point is my 1956 Chevrolet that I received for my 15th birthday from my grandmother (the original owner). The car turned 25 in 1981 and by that time it could not be overlooked when parked in a group of contemporary daily-drivers. The less dramatic visual distinction of 1990s probably dampens the appeal of family cars like this Nissan. Of course sports, specialty and muscle cars are exceptions...

Nice property, but all that wallpaper...

I always enjoy seeing same-year, different brand cars parked next to each other. It is interesting to compare features, finishes and design. There is a husband/wife locally who own a pair of black '58 four-door sedans. One is a Buick and the other is an Olds. I spent 20 minutes one day just meandering from one to the other comparing details. Though they did share some body and glass items, these were definitely not 'badge engineered'...

Interesting look on that '58 by deleting the stainless panel on the rear quarter. Sometimes less can indeed be more...

Maybe not built in CA, but could have initially landed there for sale and subsequently shipped to Canada (e.g., British Columbia)?

I remember my grandfather telling me that he specifically did NOT order a limited-slip diff in the new '69 LTD Country Squire he bought. His rationale (apparently based on experience) was that on slippery roads both rear wheels can break traction and before you know it you're facing 180° from where you started. With an open diff, if a rear wheel breaks traction no torque goes to the other wheel. Anyway, I agree with Jason. Besides, I think it's more fun (and easier on the tires) to get rolling at 10~15 mph then open the Q-jet...

Look for a stamped number on the body, the raised number is a casting number. Hopefully @carbking will elaborate on the specific numbers to look for.

Looks like a beautiful venue with a nice assortment of cars. Wish I had known about that one!

Calling @Dan O...

If the spark plug wires and firing order check out OK, try a different condenser. Did you verify dwell & timing?

If cam grease isn't available, I believe the shop manual says petroleum jelly (i.e., Vaseline) can be used.

Hopefully @rodneybeauchamp will chime-in here. He had a '38 Buick a few years ago...

Did the Wildcat sell?

Buy it, give it a good mechanical inspection and servicing, then drive it!

That's a nice looking Cadillac. I like these coupes and this one seems reasonably priced and has the 425 V8. Red leather would really look elegant.

Ah, yes. I really like E bodies, but white is really not a flattering color on them. That said, this one appears to be in nice condition and paint looks like it has been redone at some point. I'd almost rather it was well-worn original paint in order to justify a color change...

https://spacecoast.craigslist.org/cto/d/melbourne-1971-ford-torino/7659506691.html

If this were my car I would probably take the wheel to my workbench, remove the loose pieces, scuff the remaining hard plastic with 80 grit sandpaper and then use polyester bodyfiller to fill-in the gaps. Bodywork the rim (sand, re-coat, sand, recoat...) until it looks presentable, then prime and paint. I'll bet it would look pretty good and hold up until you could either save money to have it re-cast, or find a better original wheel.

OK, it sounds to me like the carburetor is dumping fuel into the intake manifold. I'm guessing the black side of the insulator was pointed toward the intake valve. The white side likely faced the piston and was directly exposed to the combustion gasses. Possibly a leaky power valve? Is there any evidence of flooding on the outside of the carburetor or stains on the intake manifold?