AzBob

X2. In some areas of the Intermountain West it's not uncommon for gas stations to be 100 plus miles apart. Traveling through Nevada and Wyoming is where I have personally encountered these long stretches between gas.

Probably better results posting on the "Buick Pre War Forum" https://forums.aaca.org/forum/60-buick-pre-war/

Brian, What was the typical fire related failure modes for electric fuel pump setups you mentioned? Cracked or leaking fuel hose spraying raw fuel onto a hot exhaust manifold? Accident? My 1926-26 came to me with one installed. It had a separate toggle switch. Once I got the original vacuum tank restored, I removed the electric fuel pump. In addition, the noise it made was annoying.

Hands down, ’26 Ford Model T runabout was the slowest car I ever owned. Nonetheless, Was a fun car to drive.🙂

Back when the Shay was introduced, (Circa 1980) the local Ford dealer had one in the showroom for sale. I was tempted at the time. The original pricing I don’t recall. Seemed reasonable at the time though. After looking at a few examples through the years, the fit and finish seems to be somewhat lacking. In my opinion, a fun car for sure but nothing like having an original Model A. 🙂

Learned something today. V in the rear window for Velie. The rear window clearly identifies it now. I thought what I was seeing in the rear window was part of the top irons.

Electric Jaguar reminds me of this conversion. :(

If it has a vacuum tank, is the vacuum tank pulling gas from the gas tank and cycling properly? If it is malfunctioning, a vacuum leak here would cause similar problems.

Flasher option is a great idea for a third brake light. Tried to find the one above, instead found and ordered this one from Superbrightleds. $4.95.

If one enjoys ’20’s and ’30’s jazz and swing, this is a goodie. Very few commercials. Sometimes music spans all the way from the teens to the early ’40’s but mostly ’20’s and early ’30’s. https://tunein.com/radio/Jazz-20s--Swinging-30s-s218840/

Plenty of Model T’s for sale here. https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=4

—Henry Royce

Corn Head Grease NLGI grade No. 0 looks like just the ticket for your u-joint lube. I see it is formulated not to leak during idle periods. From the Nye lubricants page. “NLGI grades 000 to 0. Grease within this NLGI range to continuously replenish the lubricant in the contact zone."

Terry, that is certainly an interesting looking u-joint and gimbal assembly. Here is a link to NYE lubricants that gives a pretty good explanation with regards to grease consistency. https://www.nyelubricants.com/need-to-know-grease-consistency

I had a 1929 Model A Tudor sedan when I was in H.S. circa 1970. At that time, my only sources for Model A parts were the few local Model A guys with extra parts they were willing to sell or from the “Model A section" of J.C. Whitney and Warshawsky catalogs. Whitney and Warshawsky parts were a little “iffy” some better quality others not so much. I did enjoy browsing those sections of the catalogs back then. Earlier this year I purchased a 1930 Sport Coupe and am astounded at the number of parts available from the vendors today. The quality of the parts purchased so far have been good. Like DandyDave pointed out you can have parts on the way in a matter of hours. What would Henry Ford think if he could see us now or had known the Model A would be so popular and survive so long? Perhaps extended Model A production into the Model B and V8 era. However, time, engineering and developmental advances were marching on in the midst of the Great Depression. Model A/B engine production did survive as an industrial (diamond) engine until 1941 from most accounts. (Incredibly, the Model T engine to 1941 as well.)

Pretty exciting to see you found your old ’30 Buick from the ’70’s. Too bad about the as found condition. Sad to see. Mother nature is most unkind to old cars left outdoors. Even in drier climates it seems nothing deteriorates faster than a car left unattended outdoors.

Looks like a 1930 or ’31 Model A Ford.

Using the CPI inflation calculator lists the above Model A Ford items in 46 woodies post. Model A horn at $.90 = to $16.38 "in today’s dollars.” Actual cost to buy reproduction. $279. (Snyder’s) Spindle bolt sets $1.05 = to $19.11 “in today’s dollars." Actual cost to buy reproduction. $82. (Snyder’s) 3X spark plugs at $.38 = to $6.92 “in today’s dollars” Actual cost to buy reproduction. $37. (Snyder’s) Interesting to note that the 3X spark plugs are nearly 100 times the 1932 cost of $.38. Somewhere there is huge disconnect in the actual cost to purchase these items vs the inflation calculator. What are we missing here? I have noted this before. Somehow the prices do not fit the inflation calculator model. Even if one uses $600. assuming average cost of a brand new Model A, this calculates to $10,920. Where can one buy a new vehicle for that today? https://www.bls.gov/data/inflation_calculator.htm

I have been following this thread and applaud Hugh for addressing a safety feature we have all become accustomed to in our modern vehicles. For me, until the late ’70’s when seat belt safety campaigns were being promoted by signage on the highways, I did not wear seat belts even if they were present in the vehicle. Can anyone provide a documented case where the body has separated from the frame?

The downside of wind and solar is is the sun doesn’t shine all the time and the wind doesn’t blow all the time. There will still be a need for conventional power generation sources. Until there is adequate capacity and storage capabilities for renewables, thermal and hydroelectric sources will be around for awhile. Another thing I find troublesome about wind and solar is the once pristine lands that are now cluttered with these eyesores. A prime example is the wind farm recently constructed in a remote valley next to Great Basin National Park in Nevada. One more thing comes to mind. What will the effects of these large wind and solar farms have on the climate? In the rush to implement these technologies, there may be unintended consequences with regards to weather patterns. Keeping this car related, I think it would be great to have an electric commuter car I could recharge from home using photovoltaic cells.

I run a Model A Air Maze on my 1926 Model T and do just as Captain Harley does. I spray a light mist of K&N oil on it after cleaning. When applying the K&N oil, I wipe off the excess then lightly blow with compressed air. If one holds the filter up to the light, you will see the oil does not completely block off the screen grids. I have not noticed any loss in performance. At the first cleaning, I found a fair amount of dirt/dust was trapped and prevented from entering the engine. I do occasionally travel on dirt roads. Captain Harley, What are the advantages of running that Simmons intake manifold on your “A”?

It does appear to be a Dodge Brothers four. Compare to this one seen at the Piquette. Not sure of the year. Early 1920’s?

Matt, What you are seeing and reading about is the mainsprings power reserve indicator. A common complication often seen on high end mechanical watches. There are no batteries. Is powered by twin mainsprings. One of which can be seen directly below the power reserve “fuel reserve” indicator.

Welcome Jaybokay, Nice looking ’62 GT Hawk and great story. I owned several Studebakers back in the day including 2 Silver Hawks. Liked the refined looks of the GT Hawks. You are right about the Studebaker 289 cu. in. V8 being a robust and very reliable engine.

No batteries or electricity involved. Is a purely mechanical watch powered by twin mainspring barrels. Truly amazing craftsmanship and technology demonstrated here.