hidden_hunter

Looks like it would be a good match for the 26 buick

There were a lot of poorly manufactured CD's in the late 90's (as CDR drives became popular) that basically the internal structure of the disk starts to seperate. Generally it will look cloudy or milky in certain parts of the disk when this start to happen. Lots of laserdisc also suffers from poor manufacturing where the disk cannot be read any more.

Don’t know about the UK but a guy here in Australia makes them here using original machinery http://www.ftrs.com.au/ also has a price estimator

Australia used to have huge asbestos mining operations which have resulted in some towns being abandoned. Its been a big deal as long as I can remember to the extent one of the territories pulled down 500+ houses. Importation of asbestos has been illegal for some time, its being enforced now is the change

awesome work!

Yeah I had a look at one at the local mall, looks pretty neat. It's also been good to revitalise American made cars here as we've had some shockers over the years that have given them a nasty rep in recent times.

Does the car have a pre heat for the gas?

Looks similar to the one off a 26 Buick

Certainly a nice car, maybe it's just me but I'd be expecting it to present a bit better for that amount of money (e.g new tyres) Also, not sure why so few people put engine shots up (or crapily taken ones) when trying to sell some of these cars for big money.

Don't know what packards of that vintage are worth but it seems like strong money for a car in that condition with a poor patching job from throwing a rod.

The Cadillac shop manual lists something like 30 different tools required to work on your car (which of course you can't buy anymore) and most of them are tools to work around questionable design choices (e.g they put a stud in the way so you can't get a regular spanner on it)

It may just need adjustment if the brushes are worn

Can you see the brushes at all?

We think that might have happened when the top cover disintegrated and bits of metal went flying through the motor However, we had success today - the old man tapped it back and forth for a while and eventually it freed up. Now both the lock and tensioner are moving easily and both gears are turning. Ive got the top cover back on and 12 of the valves so back on track

I do kinda wonder how suitable my 22 cad 5 passenger coupe would go, has two easily mounted spares, places for plenty of tools and I think you could add a much bigger fuel tank without too much trouble

I've scanned copies of the shop manual as well, I can't see anything that would possibly be stopping it Scan_20180117 (3).pdf Scan_20180117 (4).pdf Scan_20180117 (2).pdf Scan_20180117.pdf

We have a lot of my grandfathers old tools, and they're all high quality and made in Australia - his socket and ratchet set are much better than anything I've been able to buy

Any ideas? I’ve tried everything I can think of and have to be able to move the gear to reassemble the motor

Video of it turning (don’t mind the wd40) 6D449A14-4B03-49F5-AAD9-808C0CFF95BA.MOV

Hi all, I thought I was getting close to getting my 1922 Cadillac but alas no. I had most of it back together but when I went to put on the chains I couldn’t get more than half a turn out of the chain adjuster before it goes tight when the book tells me that I should turn it clockwise 6 times. So I’ve had to take most of it apart again It moves freely about 1/2 a turn on the adjuster shaft and the locking screw is out I can see the bottom worm gear moving but the top gear refuses to move. This should rotate to allow you to tension or back off the chains The camshaft moves freely itself and slides backwards and forward about 1/2” I can’t see any physical obstructions or any reason why the gear shouldn’t rotate I’ve applied a liberal amount of WD40 with no luck, neither of the gears will move (the book says loosen the back one first but neither are moving despite the worm gear)

Thanks for confirming, was still much easier sticking them out the top and using a modern compressor but that might have been because I was doing it lying under the car

The bottom one looks a lot more homemade than the top one (particularly the welding) - perhaps it has been adapted from something else? Don't always trust the parts book, we had the same thing with the 1926 where we found at least 3 variations of the pump casing

My state has some of the strictest enforcement of speed limits in the world where you can get booked for 2 miles over the speed limit. Having said that with driving conditions similar to a lot of Texas (and only slightly smaller population), Australia had less than a third of the fatalities. We also have a statutory no-fault insurance provider that's paid for as part of your registration, they spend a lot of money pushing safety (through advertising and road projects) - The theory behind it is that if they do that it will in turn reduce premiums (we're already one of the cheapest places in Australia so it must work ok) as their payouts tend to be very expensive as they include things like income support

I had the crank in at the start but there isn't stopping you putting it in later (but it may be more awkward to fit if you've got rods hanging down) The taper on the Cadillac bore is enough to compress the rings itself with out using a compressor, however it's a pain and a lot slower to do (I did two pistons like that before I realised that the set of rings I'd bought were junk and had to be replaced). Using the method I described above you can probably have them all in a day (the cad also needs sooo many split pins...)

I don't know about you guys but when buying stuff I generally look for better than "ok"