raydurr

Refer to www.29buick.ca . Go to photo gallery, repairs, then fuel pump info / repairs. This will show you how the fuel pump push rod is installed in the engine. The 1929 and 1930 engines are the same in the respect of push rod. By the way it appears that your fire truck has a 1930 Buick engine in it due to the mounting bolt pattern. Coat it with a heavy grease and slide it in. The grease will prevent it from sliding back out.

If your oil pan has a riveted in place drain plug bung like my 1929 Buick has it can be easily repaired. even though the bung is riveted in place, it leaks where the solder has lost its seal. When you have your pan off take to a radiator shop. They can "sweat" the solder between the pan body and the bung. It takes maybe 10-15 minutes. This stopped my pesky leak at the drain plug .

Nice lifting handle.

A cracked block is not always the end of an engine. On these you also need to remove the large pushrod covers on the RH side. Freeze cracks occur there as well. Even though it would be quite a task , I do believe that a 1929 Master engine will go in its place. A 331 inch engine vs. a 309 inch. 1929 engines seem to be far more common to locate. I would even consider first removing the rods and pistons then removing the cylinders off the crankcase , leaving it in the car. With the cylinders off the crankcase it could be thoroughly stripped and cleaned , making a professional , permanent repair possible. I already know that the water jackets around the cylinders are packed with heavy rust and crud.

Post a photo of the fuel pump mounting area . 1929 is unique.

I am interested in a fuel pump . its lizdurrett@yahoo.com. Thanks

Hello I am looking for a 1929-1933 Chevrolet rebuildable fuel pump core. Does anyone have 1 or 2 for sale?

How to I go about purchasing some of these parts from Chipndayle?

Careful you can collapse your u joint frame like that. On my 1929 Buick I had to remove the rear section of the trans and use a press to separate the u joint from the shaft. I cannot remember if I had to replace the bearing or not.

Once you have a complete list of parts needed contact Tony Bult. He most likely has the parts that you need.

Pull your axle housing cover and inspect ring, pinion and axle gears. Rotate each tire to make sure the internals are rotating. I suspect a gear or axle shaft, maybe a key in the hub. The trans and u joint are very tough, and usually don't fail.

To remedy the vapor lock , the first thing that I would do is completely block exhaust from going thru the heat riser, if you have not done so already. You can temporarily wrap the fuel lines and fuel pump with heavy aluminum foil to see if that helps. If that helps there are proper wraps that would help keep the fuel lines cooler. A heat shield for the carb and fuel pump would have to help this tremendously. Different fuels are also affected by heat differently. Good luck.

My 1929 Buick will overheat if idled too long in hot weather. If I run engine at a fast idle it will run forever with no overheating. It is because either the water pump or the fan needs RPM to be efficient.

Mike , I wish that I could answer that. The best solution would be if someone had a all original car that could provide dimensions for the link and metering pin. This will work only if car has the correct heat riser too. I had to go thru several metering pins and links to get my combination. At idle metering pin should be near bottom of its bore. You look for the correct link length to accomplish this. CarbKing may have some insight on this issue.

There are different length "links" that control the event timing of the pin lifting to enrich fuel mixture.

Post a good shot of the fuel pump from the side showing the mounting bolts and a good shot of the cast iron body of the carb.

Post a photo of the fuel pump mounting area or the mounting bolts. This will tell 29 or 30. Also do you see a casting number on the cast iron part of the carburetor, like 10-103?

The radiator looks 1930. The engine is a STANDARD series engine.

The lever around the horn button is probably the selector between low and high beam.

The switch on the underside of the steering gear is you headlamp switch. The electrical box shown is probably a voltage limiter. This was a way to limit voltage before fuses and circuit breakers were used. My 29 Buick has one under the dash . All vehicle electrical current passes through it , except for starter motor draw, on my 29.

The problems I have encountered with my 29 are similar to yours. Yes check intake gaskets , I doubt it as thorough as your work appears. I would totally verify condition of the heat riser tubes . A tiny hole in a heat tube can cause erratic engine operation. The next will be distributor bushing, advance mechanism and contact points condition. My updraft Marvel still likes to run with the choke slightly closed at times. I have no real explanation as to why other than venturi mechanism not being consistent in operation or main jet becoming partially clogged from being parked too long. The venturi in mine has been replaced and was operating flawlessly last time my carb was off, but that was years ago.

I have personally witnessed bent connecting rods in a stuck engine, using towing as a method. The long and thin connecting rods are fairly easy to bend. Good luck to having it running. Shouldn't be more than a few hours work to have it purring.

This leak is typically either an overfilled axle housing or the car has been parked leaning to the side of the leak. In more rare cases over heated gear oil could over expand and have a greater tendency to find a path out.

My 1929 Buick coolant would foam and overflow before I added a thermostat. It appeared that the coolant was circulating way to fast with little restriction. It did this for years at cruising speed. The inline thermostat fixed my issue immediately.

Next time you do a darkness test , be sure to watch for arc where the wire come into contact with each other. The arc is hard to catch without separating and moving the wires around while running. Also remember plug wire covers can cause problems once installed. Good luck.