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Everything posted by raydurr

  1. Pull your axle housing cover and inspect ring, pinion and axle gears. Rotate each tire to make sure the internals are rotating. I suspect a gear or axle shaft, maybe a key in the hub. The trans and u joint are very tough, and usually don't fail.
  2. To remedy the vapor lock , the first thing that I would do is completely block exhaust from going thru the heat riser, if you have not done so already. You can temporarily wrap the fuel lines and fuel pump with heavy aluminum foil to see if that helps. If that helps there are proper wraps that would help keep the fuel lines cooler. A heat shield for the carb and fuel pump would have to help this tremendously. Different fuels are also affected by heat differently. Good luck.
  3. My 1929 Buick will overheat if idled too long in hot weather. If I run engine at a fast idle it will run forever with no overheating. It is because either the water pump or the fan needs RPM to be efficient.
  4. Mike , I wish that I could answer that. The best solution would be if someone had a all original car that could provide dimensions for the link and metering pin. This will work only if car has the correct heat riser too. I had to go thru several metering pins and links to get my combination. At idle metering pin should be near bottom of its bore. You look for the correct link length to accomplish this. CarbKing may have some insight on this issue.
  5. There are different length "links" that control the event timing of the pin lifting to enrich fuel mixture.
  6. Post a good shot of the fuel pump from the side showing the mounting bolts and a good shot of the cast iron body of the carb.
  7. Post a photo of the fuel pump mounting area or the mounting bolts. This will tell 29 or 30. Also do you see a casting number on the cast iron part of the carburetor, like 10-103?
  8. The radiator looks 1930. The engine is a STANDARD series engine.
  9. The lever around the horn button is probably the selector between low and high beam.
  10. The switch on the underside of the steering gear is you headlamp switch. The electrical box shown is probably a voltage limiter. This was a way to limit voltage before fuses and circuit breakers were used. My 29 Buick has one under the dash . All vehicle electrical current passes through it , except for starter motor draw, on my 29.
  11. The problems I have encountered with my 29 are similar to yours. Yes check intake gaskets , I doubt it as thorough as your work appears. I would totally verify condition of the heat riser tubes . A tiny hole in a heat tube can cause erratic engine operation. The next will be distributor bushing, advance mechanism and contact points condition. My updraft Marvel still likes to run with the choke slightly closed at times. I have no real explanation as to why other than venturi mechanism not being consistent in operation or main jet becoming partially clogged from being parked too long. The venturi in mine has been replaced and was operating flawlessly last time my carb was off, but that was years ago.
  12. I have personally witnessed bent connecting rods in a stuck engine, using towing as a method. The long and thin connecting rods are fairly easy to bend. Good luck to having it running. Shouldn't be more than a few hours work to have it purring.
  13. This leak is typically either an overfilled axle housing or the car has been parked leaning to the side of the leak. In more rare cases over heated gear oil could over expand and have a greater tendency to find a path out.
  14. My 1929 Buick coolant would foam and overflow before I added a thermostat. It appeared that the coolant was circulating way to fast with little restriction. It did this for years at cruising speed. The inline thermostat fixed my issue immediately.
  15. Next time you do a darkness test , be sure to watch for arc where the wire come into contact with each other. The arc is hard to catch without separating and moving the wires around while running. Also remember plug wire covers can cause problems once installed. Good luck.
  16. A crude but easy way to check for "leaky" plug wires is to start engine in total darkness and move plug wires around with an insulated object. I have done this numerous times to help locate voltage loss in ignition wires and caps.
  17. Check out EBAY item 263674723479 . Shown is a 1929 or 1930 Buick Master series engine. The first thing I noticed is the down draft intake and carb. These are not Buick pieces, as the exhaust manifold outlet is in the center. I heard years ago that certain 1940s GMC inline manifolds could be used. It looks very usable setup for those tired of their updraft issues. What do you guys know about this?
  18. L&L Antique Auto Trim , Pierce City MO was the only source that I know of. I haven't seen their site up in a few years . Let us know if they are still taking orders.
  19. My 29 does fine with no electric fuel pump. Though not original, I prefer a high grade rubber hose between the mechanical fuel pump and the carburetor. This allows for a common , inexpensive inline fuel filter. I know of people , while trying to use the original metal tube connecting the fuel pump to the carburetor , to break either the fuel pump or the carburetor while reconnecting. This old pot metal is getting brittle. If running a new line from the tank to fuel pump I would use steel. The original tubing was brass. Copper can be very brittle and dangerous. Good luck.
  20. Typically a backfire through the intake indicates a lean condition. Sometime my 29 likes to pop back unless the choke is slightly pulled out. After some driving the condition usually goes away.
  21. Oil suddenly coming out of these tubes is a sign of a heavy lean to that side or overfilled differential oil level. A gradually appearing leak would be seals as felt doesn't suddenly fail. Id run it and check oil level periodically. It can even be a little low and still operate safely.
  22. I have removed soap suds from radiators by running engine for 30-45 minutes with a garden hose in the radiator constantly overflowing it with water. Its a bit messy but always worked. It also can be used to "float" oil from a cooling system.
  23. They do have cores sometimes, call Feltz Terrill and ask. Very good people to deal with. I think you may also save some money by calling them.
  24. If your fuel pump hasn't been rebuilt in the past five years I would rebuild it while the fuel tank is out. It will definitely require a rebuild if hasn't been rebuilt since the use of ethanol fuel has started. Need to also consider the replacement of rubber fuel hoses as well. I use Terrill Machine in Deleon Tx. for pump rebuilds. Great guys there.
  25. Moyer performed a rebuild of my fuel tank in 2012 for my 1929 Buick. The tank had been unused for decades and the floor of the tank was like swiss cheese. They cut out the affected areas and carefully welded in a new section. The tank fit great and the renu took care of any rust. I am very happy and at the time a lifetime warranty was given. Any time trying to revive a car to driver status the fuel tank is one of the first things I take care of. I don't battle rust if I can avoid it and its not worth risking fuel pump or carburetor damage , not to mention the nuisance of a underpowered car. Id do it in a minute if planning on using the car.
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