raydurr

It appears to be a Master series engine.

Look at ebay item 263309506403. I am not sure if the chassis shown will have parts you may need.

Is the differential overfilled? If so , excess should go out the spout on the backing plate , unless some of the bearing shields or other sheet metal parts are damaged or missing. Make sure spout is clear and not blocked. If replacing the seal, silicone could be applied between the brake drum and the shield attached by the 6 bolts. This may slow the leakage some. There is no seal between the axle shaft and axle housing. I have never experienced a leak from inside the hubcap. Was the axle nut loose?

Where is said oil coming from? These old rear axles always seem to leak some. The only seal is a felt seal which allows seepage but prevent dirt and other contaminants from contacting the bearing. In photo 3 the lower part is the felt seal. Any lube that gets past it is captured by a shield that directs it to a drain spout on the other side of the backing plate, just below the axle housing tube. The rear wheel bearings are lubed by chassis grease upon assembly then topped of with a grease gun through the 1/8" NPT plug in the hub.

It appears that the used axles have had a rough life. The keyway has either been wallowed out or were cut poorly without the correct machining process. The cracks make me think the axle may have been welded then machined to a taper at some point in its life. I think due to the nature of the repairs shown , these parts are subject to fail if used very much. There should be a member on here that could direct you to a qualified machine shop that could duplicate your axle shafts. If going with new axles you may want the machine shop to inspect your hubs. If your hub keyways are worn , perhaps they can go up to the next size eliminating the worn areas.

Ok, it is normal for the shaft to have a quite a bit of free play. The roller bearings inside the hub is what keeps the axle shaft centered when the hub is installed.The roller bearing runs on the axle housing .

Did you remove the wheel hub , leaving only the tapered shaft?

Terrell Machine will rebuild your pump for $75-85 . They will check linkages and test the unit. They are super fragile. I would consider letting a pro do it.

Well you guys working on splasher type engines changes the rules some. My 29 is crude but very similar to a modern oiling system. 25-30 psi on a used Master series engine is more than adequate for many more miles.

Bob , years back when building modified SBC engines , I would shoot for .0025-.003 clearance. I avoided using a gasket and aimed for perfectly flat mating surfaces. If a gasket is required , thin is better and less likely to rupture. The Chevy gears are different size from your Buick but this gives you and idea. The larger the gear the more clearance the pump can handle before volume then pressure goes down. Be careful about removing too much material. Its best to use a lapping block or lapping plate. If too much clearance , sand the housing , if not enough sand the gear height down. Its not rocket science. Be sure to check oil pump mounting surface and all those soldier connections on the oil piping , if yours has them. Take time with the bypass valve and spring.

Your original bolts may be equal to todays Grade 2 bolts. My 29 has many original bolts. They are very soft compared to todays Grade 8. If switching to Gr 8 hardware I would do a trial assembly carefully bringing torque up to recommended specs for that particular grade fastener. My concern is that the threads in the rod may not be capable of holding the torque required for proper bolt stretch. If a bolt isn't torqued or stretched correctly at assembly there is a risk or it backing out or failing from fatigue. If all rod threads hold I would definitely use genuine locktite on the threads and discontinue use of the original lock washers. Also watch for threads bottoming in the thread bore.

I am aware that the 29 manifolds can be flipped. The manifolds shown are not Buick six. I think 1930 was the last year of the six.

I don't know what the indicated device is. I would like to know the origin of the intake and exhaust manifolds. Are there any casting numbers on them?

Hubert , all is well now. I located a good used speedometer cable , housing and driven gear. I never had to pull that darned u joint. Thank you for asking.

Brian is right. My 29 will not shift correctly with modern lubes. The heavier the better my tranny likes it.

Modern oils can withstand much higher temperatures before breaking down than 1932 oils. Why not purchase a quality infrared temp gun and monitor the oil temperature during operation without the cooler. I feel that under moderate load and a properly operating cooling system you will find low oil temperatures especially with the large sump. This method poses little risk.

Good luck on your restoration. In the event that you may need a fuel pump , please contact me. I have a few ready to go. Thanks

Poor engine has had a hard life. Now would be a great time to remove freeze plugs and remove all scale in the water jackets and passages. I bet there is a coffee cup of scale behind #6 cylinder. Dig and flush all the scale and debris out now. If the welds seep a little, a tiny bit of stop leak will seal it off.

Grant. I don't recall a felt on my 29 Master. I think everything is metal to metal.. There are different thickness paper shims than can compensate for wear in the ball area when removed. Last thing you want is a ball adjusted too tight which will lead to deep scaring and even more leaking. I did consider replacing the leather with some type rubber and proper fitting narrow clamps. This would hold any oil in a clean fashion. I decided to keep the leak for sake of originality.

Terry what I had in mind is the total cost to get the engine in like new condition. Do a cost comparison on more obscure parts of a Buick. Just say the engine has a rollerized cam shaft with bad followers and a cam that needs reconditioning it will be super expensive to go back with new parts. Then you have the clutch with multiple frictions. After being hot several times the pressure plate should have the springs checked or replaced. The cost to completely recondition , not patch, is rather expensive and time consuming. Timing gear is not cheap for what you get. Oil pump gears and labor associated with making it like new is pretty steep. The gears may not be completely worn out but if you are already spending several thousand dollars I would. On the Buick ,the pistons will probably be a modern aluminum which should require the engine to be balanced. This is more $$$. Proper cylinder head reconditioning is a must. Buick vales, guides and springs aren't cheap. The gasket set for the engine is pretty steep. Lets surface the manifolds and cylinder head. Are the rockers in need of service or replacement? Is the crank, block , rods and other hard to locate parts reusable? Then last but not least, basic machine shop labor . I wouldn't let just anyone do my babbit work. You might could rebuild for $2000-3000 if really lucky but I would consider it a patch and not a real rebuild. Just the cost to recondition the carburetor, fuel pump, distributor , water pump and radiator is expensive. Would you overlook these things at rebuild time? I wouldn't.

I would proceed with caution on rebuilding a early Buick engine. If the engine is runnable , run it. The cost to correctly rebuild one of these could easily hit $10000. You may be forced to reuse questionable parts or have custom parts made. These Buicks certainly aren't a Ford or Chevy at rebuild time. One thing for sure is that they don't need as much care as the throwaways do. The Buick is the equivalent to a truck or industrial engine. One observation is that until you redo everything that the previous owners before you messed with , you will have surprises. I hate going behind people that do sloppy work.

Grant there isn't a seal that I am aware of. My 29 leaks badly when completely full . I run the 600W oil . If I run it slightly low this seems to help. The ball pivot on the torque tube is the only part that seals. The leather wrap prevents the surfaces from being exposed to certain elements. I also use a large shop floor cookie sheet to catch excess. The transmission is the only leak my car has.

Sorry about your misfortune. The 1929 Buick pump is different. The lever housing is quite different. The top, I think is the same. Please refer to a pump that I have listed on Ebay. The item number is 142286444235. You will easily see the differences. You may contact Tony Bult Buick club member.

Radials- if over 4-5 years you are on borrowed time. They can separate on a spare rack and have never touched the ground. Bias-I have ran 50 year old bias tires with good success. I didn't do super long runs in the Texas heat but they held together year after year. I finally changed them after the fabric was visible through a few cracks. I feel that bias tires stored indoors away from UV could be safe for years.

My 29-41 has done this after being parked for 10+ years. The clutch frictions like to stick to the steel facings. I have freed stuck clutches by driving the cars while holding the clutch pedal down and gassing the engine. I freed the clutch in a Model A by having the car on jack stands while running the car in high gear , holding the clutch pedal down and stomping the brake pedal and quickly hitting the park brake. All this has to be done running half throttle or so. Be careful to not be too aggressive as the old cars don't have hardened driveline parts. I bet yours breaks loose pretty easily.