raydurr

I think i have used packing intended for a Model A Ford before. I added it to the existing packing.

I use the 600WT or STP when in a pinch. They are both equally messy.

1929 Buick ujoints are very hard to find. Many people attempt to remove them from a spare transmission. They are almost always destroyed in the attempt to remove. The output shaft of the transmission usually has to be removed then the ujoint pressed off. I have confirmed this with a few 1929 Buick experts.

Post a photo of the engine and a photo of of the square data plate on passenger side firewall.

Perhaps a new plate. There are modern fabrication shops that can digitally scan a parts to then be retouched by a technician. Lastly to be cut out with a water jet. Water jet cut parts are usually perfect.

Looking for a good used or rebuild able fuel gauge for the above car. I believe 2771638 is the OEM part number.

Sonic testing will help determine original cylinder wall thickness before boring. Proper sleeve installation can be as good or better than new.

So $7.00 was billed as labor. The mechanic probably saw less than $2.00 of it.

Hello Can you identify the applications for this TWOLITE?

I cant imagine the oil getting hot enough to actually break down modern oils.

I think the carburetor shop has a 6 month wait time for kits. Each one is custom made? Is this correct?

Your engine is a Standard engine. Fan and pulleys are truck only. Engine looks 1928 due to not having the boss for a mechanical fuel pump.

How much did it go for?

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I have a 1930 Buick distributor for sale.

Is this still available?

Looks Buick in design. Mid 1920s. Buick mounts via a clamp system.

I would suspect a leaky needle and seat in the carburetor. You might start trying to isolate the culprit by running the engine then shutting it off. Then disconnect the vacuum line at the intake manifold and disconnect the fuel line to the carburetor to see if unwanted flow is occurring. Monitor this for a period after shutoff. I cannot see how the heat riser tube could be a factor in what you are describing.

In similar instances I have put the car on jack stands with suspension relaxed, put as much pressure as possible with a grease gun and then heat with a torch. I would avoid overheating the arm as that's not a throw away part. If that doesn't work remove cap and dig out hardened grease. I am assuming that you have removed the zerk and dug out as much old grease as possible.

Your clutch and pressure plate actually look pretty good. I unable to locate replacement parts, you may have to have your rebuilt.

How much do fully restored , show worthy examples like this go for?

Do you need all or part of a gauge?

I could be wrong but I suspect inadequate oil flow to the bearing.