raydurr

If it were me I would do the easiest thing first which is remove the differential cover to look for a snapped axle or other damaged parts.

I am happy to hear that you reached a simple solution to you clutch problems. These clutches are durable but difficult to replace. Old timers had some crude yet simple solutions to problems such as this. Have fun!

I have been told that Then and Now Automotive in Weymouth MA. Does a nice job. Lets us know how it goes.

About 35 years ago I remember my grandfather describing clutch grab in his 1929 Buick. His solution was to stop up the drain slot in the bell housing and fill the bell housing with " coal oil". He would let sit for a little while , push in and out on the clutch pedal a few times and finally drain the fluid from the bell housing. He said that clutch would be smooth as silk for a year or two afterwards. I have considered doing this myself lately. I am not suggesting this as a remedy, merely passing on a story of what occurred probably 85 years ago. Good luck!

Hello I am at a dead end on identifying a headlamp lense. It is marked TWOLITE HEADLAMP. It has the usual patent numbers. The part number was omitted. There are dimensions shown in one of the photos. Any help would be appreciated.

I do have a question. Was your speedometer working before the incident? If so, have you checked to see if it works now when attempting to move the car forward? If speedometer operates, yet car wont move , then the failure is from the u joint back. Just an easy way to help isolate the power interruption.

Maybe I missed something in the previous comments. If your car is like my 1929 Buick it has a removable differential cover. If so it can be removed in no time. Usually 15 minutes. Far less time than fooling with removal of other components. Place car on jackstands ,remove the rear cover and run the car in gear. See if the pinion gear is turning or not. I have a feeling that your failure is in the differential or rear axle shaft related. Sure it can be the clutch , transmission, ujoint or driveashaft. Your differential oil probably needs changed anyhow.

Hello My 1929 Buick does not have a pressurized cooling system. I tend to run my coolant level to where it just covers the top of the radiator tubes. The coolant expands with heat and can overflow if too full. The owners before me had discarded the original thermostat. I can assure you that they are next to impossible to find in good working condition. I added a 1-1/2" inline thermostat from Restoration Supply in Escondido California to my top radiator hose. The reason that I added is to prevent the coolant from "foaming" out of the top of the radiator. If my car is operated without a thermostat, this will occur due to the unrestricted and violent flow of coolant at higher engine speeds. My car stopped the foaming immediately after adding the thermostat. Good Luck

Originally it probably used SAE 30wt. My 1929 tends to like 40wt.( oil pressure wise anyways). I currently use modern 15W-40 diesel engine oil. Since my 1929 has roller cam followers , I am not concerned with adding zinc. Im pretty sure the diesel 15w-40 oils have high zinc already.

I have encountered improper valve adjustment that kills power and causes difficult starting, while hot, two different times over the years. In both cases hot valve lash was too tight. When the engine heated up, the valves were slightly open . Opened the lash up and a perfect running engine came back. I think it was due to valve and seat wear that causes the valve lash to go away. One was on a fairly fresh rebuild the other was a very high hour industrial engine. Each engine started and ran normal when cold. After sustained load, power went down , the engines chocked down and died easily. Wouldn't start when hot. Let them cool 30-60 minutes and engines cames right back to life. At first I suspected old ignition components.

My generator cutout has stuck open a few times. A brisk tap or two always fixed that. I suppose a brush could be stuck inside the generator.

That 20 year old gauge will look out of place on a 100 year old car.

Many early AC fuel pump used a screen above the sediment bowl. The cars that i worked on had already had it removed. Restoration Supply Escondido CA has a screen intended for the sediment bowl.

Hello. Shown is the link that may list the parts that you need. However I am not suggesting that you purchase these parts as much as I am suggesting that you use the application list to source parts from a later and much easier to find wheel cylinder. Many new replacement wheel cylinders are under $10. In that case, if the new wheel cylinder contained the correct pistons, you could throw the cylinder housing away and have the new parts that you need.Just a thought. Good luck. https://www.oldsobsolete.com/products-page/chevy-parts-for-sale/1951-chevrolet-parts-for-sale/1936-1969-general-motors-nos-brake-rear-wheel-cylinder-repair-kit-gm-5467284/

I do not believe that there is a restrictor. I am almost positive that it is a oil drain back line that lubricates the timing gears.

Hello. I am about to replace my door glasses. I have looked at the Steele companies offerings related to the door glass. Have any of you replaced your door glasses? If so which of the channels and other parts were required to do so? Were there any tricks required? I am hoping for a straight forward and easy job.

Hello there Bill! I knew the two had differences but you have helped again. Thank you.

Hello Does anyone happen to know the correct casting number for the water pump for a 29 Master?

I think that your 1928 would have great similarities as my 1929 Buick. On mine the escutcheon turns separately from the crank/knob. The escutcheon should have male threads that will thread into the mechanism housing. The reason that the escutcheon wont turn separately from the handle is due to the pot metal that was used then. Parts produced in that era are subject to high failure rate. The parts tend to grow and almost seize to each other. I have had issues with them on my 29. Sometimes they can be freed up and sometimes they cant. I used to use PB Blaster in the process.

Back to the intake and exhaust manifold studs and hardware. Your original hardware looks very usable. I would disassemble and clean the studs and washers. I would probably replace the nuts.

Engine noises can be tricky to pin point, even with experienced ears. Valve train tends to be more common than other sources. Accessories including fuel pump can be a cause. Excessive play in components operated by the camshaft can affect camshaft life. The constant hammering can eventually take its toll. Piston slap / wrist pin noise. Sounds produced by this is not good but the engine can probably be babied and used with caution for a fairly long period of time. Main bearings can be noisy at times but these old engines can limp by for a long time as long as oil pressure remains strong. Rod bearings may fail quickly and put a connecting rod through the block. Use caution here. If concerned drop the oil pan. Inspect and measure the connecting rod journals and check bearing surfaces as well as check clearances. You may purchase an older Chilton or other manual which may aid in diagnosing various engine noises.

Mr Engle is correct. My 1929 has freeze plugs behind the lifter covers. They are prone to rust through which yields coolant in crankcase oil. I might have removed all spark plugs and left oil drain plug out while pressurizing the cooling system to determine the source of the leak.

I do not recommend attempting to rebuild your own fuel pump.The first reason is the scarcity of the pump and parts. There is a fair amount of expertise in rebuilding these correctly without causing damage. Most of the larger rebuilders have some spare parts that may work to replace your broken or worn parts. Pushrod length is critical to the life of your fuel pump. Excessive slack can produce a hammer effect which can damage the fuel pump parts and the engines camshaft. Surely someone reading has a engine with the correct pushrod length that could be measured.

All this coolant knowledge makes my head hurt. On my 1929 Buick I cleaned the system as best as I could. After this my coolant circulated so fast that it foamed out of the radiator. I put an inline thermostat in the system, it completely cured the foaming over. For coolant I use 2 gallons of full strength Peak or Prestone anti freeze. I also use a coolant conditioner that is used in almost all commercial diesel engine cooling systems. I use the Fleetguard branded product. I think it is all produced by Nalco , regardless of the packaged brand.I have seen inside diesel engines 15-20 years old that used this product from day 1 . There is no corrosion of any sort when properly used. Not even any browning of ferrous metals. I drain and flush every 3-4 years and refill. Its not expensive or exotic. The coolant conditioner really helps. Careful it can be overdosed. Ebay item number is 143765646265. It is available at almost any heavy truck parts counter and NAPA. Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.

To prevent a cracked exhaust manifold be sure to use the correct type beveled flat washers under the manifold nuts. I even lightly grease both sides of my manifold gaskets. Watch the fastener torque as well. The hardware must allow some thermal expansion during use.