raydurr

I last ordered from L&L in October of 2018. Brad Landoll was my contact. It went well.

Your car is not a 121" its a 116". Looks like a 29-27.

I took very little home. Went looking for 1929 parts, brought a little for it home.

I would definitely permanently bypass the oil cooler. A completely filled and pressurized cooling system should reveal a substantial leak soon . I have even left pressurized overnight.

To locate the coolant leak I would do the following. Remove oil pan. Remove spark plugs. Fill the block with coolant.Pressurize the coolant portion of the block to 5-10 lbs. After a few minutes rotate the engine by hand.If coolant exits a particular cylinder, then you know where to start. If coolant exits rod, main or camshaft journals then is probably the cooler. Pay close attention to the freeze plugs behind the tappet covers. The leak should reveal itself.

There was a listing in the July 1929 Buick Silver Anniversary newsletter from a fellow showing one for sale . Bill Billado 802-985-2405. Please advise us of the outcome.

Egge list the piston rings.

I am pretty sure that the original pistons were cast iron or steel . Modern replacement pistons will be aluminum. Aluminum piston tend to grow with heat to close some clearances. This being said, I doubt that the pin offset will yield any significant engine noise reduction. Besides, there are plenty of other engine components that you will be hearing.

I am pretty sure that the 1929 Buick engine uses the same head bolts. Contact Tony Bult in Whitewater WI. He has them if anybody does.

Dave thats a really nice front floor mat. Who produced it?

The smallest core plug offered by Dorman, who is the most common supplier of this type plug, only goes down to 13/32" in size. You might have to drill and tap your shaft, then use a threaded pipe plug instead.

I call it the high speed jet metering pin. Search Marvel Metering Pin within the forum achives.

One other thing that causes power loss after warm up are valves adjusted too tight. I have seen it on a few occasions.

One of the most overlooked causes of low power and erratic running on the Buicks is the heat riser. The sheet metal tube can have a pinhole in it and driveability ad tunability goes out the window. Search the forum. There are dozens of stories addressing this.

I have a recently rebuilt 1929 Buick mechanical fuel pump available for sale. Does your engine have provisions for mounting a mechanical fuel pump? It is on left side,above oil pan rail and just ahead of the flywheel housing.

1930 40 Series heads are still out there. I believe a 1929 head will work. 1929 parts seem more plentiful. be sure to locate your other parts at the same time. Bolts, studs, gaskets, etc.

My initial concern of using ball bearings in the valve train is that the bearing lacks the ability to endure the impact that valve train components must endure, largely due to valve lash. I have seen bearing races shatter due to impact and shock loading , a non ferrous bushing would have survived. Softer metals such as brass, bronze and copper wear faster BUT they are superior in absorbing impact loading.

The 1929 Buick uses a unusual sized fuel filler cap. I'm not sure what other applications used the same size and configuration. I don't have a Stant part number to assist in your search. Bobs Automobilia used to have those caps available. Tony Bult may have one.

Jessers Classic Keys can supply the old Briggs and Statton blanks. I dont recall what number the blank is. The retainer pin may have already been drilled. Have you attempted to lift the cylinder out with a sharp pick? Be careful as those lock cylinders are hard to find.

I could be wrong, but the hole shown under the lock originally had a pin which retains the lock cylinder. Once the pin is drilled out, the lock cylinder can be removed. Once removed, a locksmith can easily cut a new key for you.