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Everything posted by raydurr

  1. I know that these may vary slightly but may work fine for little cost. These are 7/16" drive axle flange wedges available from NAPA . Price is right if they work. Part # TWD R005737
  2. For proper shifting my 1929 Master demands the correct heavy transmission oil AND proper timing of shifting between gears. These non synchronized transmissions require an exact amount of engine RPM drop before shifting into the next higher gear. Don't force it, it will teach you what it likes.
  3. Since you are using stainless , I would possibly drill and thread your new bezel. Stainless is durable enough.
  4. Don't be intimidated by mounting and dismounting these type tires. Its not very difficult. Getting the tube and flap centered can be a learning experience at first. This task is more about finesse than force. If it requires much muscle you are doing it wrong. In the old manuals it mentioned using talcum powder to relieve sticking of rubber components to each other.
  5. Mine grounds directly below the switch where the body meets the frame. A body mounting bolt does the grounding I believe. Mine is a 29-41.
  6. Currently Exxon Mobile carries a modern steam cylinder oil called Mobil Extra Hecla Super Cylinder Oil which has a ISO viscosity of 680. Has anyone used it?
  7. I fill mine to the top two times a year. I do this with the u joint life in mind. I prefer oil dripped on the drain pans rather than replacing an almost impossible to find u joint. In addition , on a 1929, the rear section of the transmission must be removed to remove the old u joint . The u joint must be pressed off.The rear bearing is usually lost in this process.
  8. Hubert if it runs satisfactory just run it. I have to accept many imperfections with my car to prevent spending countless hours and many dollars.
  9. To have such new plug wires leaking voltage like you described seems like voltage saturation due to high resistance, possibly in the spark plug. I have experienced this before as I created a heavy buildup on new plugs during break in and tuning. I replaced the plugs and the voltage leak disappeared.
  10. Thanks Mark. Do you remember the source that you used for your LED bulbs?
  11. When I replaced the wiring harness everything was wire wheel buffed or sandblasted. I guess I could have overlooked something.
  12. I have been experiencing short life cycles concerning headlamp bulbs in my 1929 Buick. Correct voltage is being maintained during use. Who has experience with the new LED replacement headlamp bulbs such as those sold by Restoration Supply?
  13. How is the engine rebuild coming? Any problems?
  14. The are many vintage cars with freeze cracked blocks, not all are fatal. Severity and location is important. I have used radiator stop leak successfully to play and have fun until ready to do a thorough teardown and repair. Cracks that could put coolant into crankcase oil is quite a bit riskier but I can assure you people still run them with careful observation. Show us some photos.
  15. A word of caution not related to your fuel delivery issue. I would strongly suggest replacing the standard hardware store flat washers that is used in your manifold mounting. Without this there is a risk of a cracked exhaust manifold. Originally the were cone shaped belleville type washers used. This allowed some thermal growth of the exhaust manifold. I always use them .I also grease both sides of my manifold gaskets. Lastly I am very conservative on the torque to secure them. I have also read that fuel pumps set up for updraft carburetors may have lower fuel pressure than required for the higher carburetor mounting. This can be taken care of by changing a spring or two. Fuel pump rebuilders can help with that. Good luck.
  16. Order of assembly is usually first the relief valve next the spring then lastly the threaded plug .
  17. My 29 drain plug ALWAYS dripped on the floor . There no way to stop it. I thought it was thread or drain plug washer related. I finally removed the pan and had radiator shop re solder it. No leaks at all now.
  18. Be sure to re solder the drain plug bung if it is riveted in place.
  19. 1929 Buick 121" wb and 129" wb use 6.50-20 tires.
  20. There is a great possibility that your limiter can be serviced and reused. Carefully clean it with compressed air and inspect. I have cleaned up the contacts and terminals and these things can back to life. They can be bench tested easily by applying a load . If I remember correctly my 1929 limiter began to interrupt around 40 amps. It wont cost anything to give it a shot , I would try it.
  21. Does the 1931 Buick engine have bolt on crankshaft counterweights? My 1929 engine does. Has anyone ever seen the bolts loosen in this location? I may would drop the pan to inspect rod and main bearings. Especially in the front half of the engine. Good oil pressure is a good sign of not having excessive clearances there. Your engine's under hood sounds are very similar to mine. Mine always has a slight valvetrain sound . My piston slap goes away at fast idle.
  22. Double wire goes in RH side or curbside on US cars.
  23. According to the schematic in the reference manual , the terminal on the far RH ,passenger side on US cars, will have two wires. One is supply in from voltage limiter the other goes to supply power to the reverse/brake switch. I will confirm this on my car shortly.
  24. Hello. Go to www.oldcarmanualproject.com . Search 1929 Buick. There you will find The 1929 Buick Reference Book. Inside you will see a schematic that will help you.
  25. Good to see you made it this far. I would recommend disassembly of the fan to make sure that the oiler gear isn't broke. This is very common as they are made of a bake lite material. Bobs has replacements. Failure to lube correctly will yield you a burned up shaft and bushings. The brake issue can be a challenge to isolate the problems. Seized brake clevis pins are common. First remove all clevis pins of the braking system. Clean them or replace if they are worn. Run a drill bit through each clevis by hand to remove all rust. The most frequently affected pins are near the exhaust system . Lube the clevis pins with chassis grease and replace. You will notice a significant change in pedal effort and pedal height at stopping .
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