raydurr

Here are a few photos that might aid in your disassembly.

It is possible that the key at the hub has failed. Especially if there have been key way issues from the past. Removal of the hub will be required to determine this. To remove the axle, the cross shaft and spider gears must removed from the center carrier. Once these are removed,there should be a nut in the center of the RH axle gear. Removal of this nut should allow the axle shaft to slide out. Avoid removing the the carrier bearing cap, like you have started to do. There are adjustments that will be lost if you continue.

My 1929 Buick uses brass originally in this application.

If speedometer works then you have power to the front half of the u joint. Easiest thing to remove would be the differential cover. See if pinion gear turns when running. If not then power loss is between the u joint and pinion. If pinion turns ring gear then spider gears, spider gear cross shaft, axle gears, axle shaft, axle shaft key way or rear axle hub has failed.

Another part to consider. If the fuel level in the fuel bowl is ever higher than the end of the jets , fuel will overflow.

I usually use a 4lb hammer to firmly strike each stud several times. I would then use vise grips to gently remove. Dont apply too much force. If it moves, go both directions several times. Use lots of penetrating oil.

Just thinking. My 29 likes thick and heavy transmission lube. If your synchros are worn the heavyer thicker oil used in older cars might assist in the shifting. It wouldnt cost much money or time to try. I know all the philosophers will roll their eyes on this but its easy and inexpensive to try.

1938 Buicks are great cars. They drove great with lots of power. I drove one a lot as a teenager chauffeuring my grandfather around.

I dont think you use wood boards to set toe in .

Id like to see someone try to shift my 1929 w 50 wt. You might have to come to a complete stop each gear change. I run that 600 wt Ford stuff in my transmission. I have mixed 85w-140 and STP half and half before for the transmission when the 600 wt wasn't available. It likes thick oil. Rear axle isnt very picky. As long as its heavy and wont erode the brass it should be fine. Most old gear compartments accept heavy lubricants well.

Inspect the surfaces of the inner race, the outer race and the balls. If no pitting or spalling you should be good.

If the rod bolt nuts are castellated then the engine more than likely used cotter pins. Be aware that many common hardware store cotter pins are rather soft. Movement and fatigue could cause these to fail prematurely. I would try to locate some stiffer ones. Make sure that your oil pump pickup screen is in good condition.

My 1929 Buick has roller lifters so zinc is not as critical as on flat tappet engines. My car seems to like Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo and Schaffers all in 15W-40 oil. I add one pint of STP for good luck. It hasnt had an engine failure yet. I prefer lesser expensive oil that can be found anywhere.

Today I moved the third brush to its limit of travel in the lowest current position. With headlamps on, warmed up and at road speed the ammeter shows 5-6 amperes. Engine warm and at a fast idle with no accessories yields around 7.4 volts. The system shows a slight positive charge at hot idle.

I ran across this instruction on the third brush adjustment. I will attempt to lower the voltage today.

This is shown in the 1929 Buick Service Manual .

Hello. Does anyone know what normal charging system maximum voltage should be? This would be warmed up, with engine at a fast idle and no accessories on. Currently my system shows 20+ amperes and 8.6 volts at a warm fast idle. I have not removed the cutout cover yet as I avoid disturbing anything electrical that is old and working correctly.

Sorry about you having to deal with this. I gave up on rebuilding my own fuel pumps a while ago. There are people with great skill and expertise that rebuild them at slightly more than the cost of a rebuild kit. They have the ability to identify and replace worn parts. They can also test the finished rebuild.

Do you still have the fuel pump?

Hello. Do you still have the fuel pump?

Hello. My 1929 Buick Master needs a heat valve. Does anyone have one that they would like to sell ?

I had Moyers Fuel Tank Renu, South Greensburg Pennsylvania repair my 29 Buick fuel tank. It was done in 2011. It has performed flawlessly since. Moyers replaced the floor of my tank which looked like swiss cheese. I thought my tank was junk. They did great.

Daniel, I cured the exact same problem with my 29 Buick by installing an inline thermostat in my upper radiator hose. It was purchased from Restoration Supply. Zero problems since. The problem with mine was unrestricted circulation. Water flow was too fast.

Any progress?