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raydurr

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Everything posted by raydurr

  1. Completely rebuilt fuel pump. Compatible with todays fuels. Internal linkages replaced if needed. Ready to bolt on. $525.00 . Photos available. Email: lizdurrett@yahoo.com.
  2. A brand new carburetor would ruin all the running bad, popping back and flooding. A Buick without a Marvel would be boring. LOL
  3. Try this. https://rogerbrownco.com/product/diamond-a-8235-435x12-roller-link/ https://kscdirect.com/search_results.php?q=435X1%2F2%22&f=
  4. Robert you can find 435 chain and connecting links on the Motion Industries website. Diamond chain offers it in a 3/8" and a 1/2" width. Its a fairly uncommon chain. I have never seen it used. I checked the Rex-Rexnord catalog first. Rex sort of wrote the book on industrial chain. They must have discontinued it.
  5. Well your car having a fuel pump makes the engine a 1929 and up. The mechanical fuel pump is the sole source of fuel delivery 1929 and up. It can be rebuilt. They are extremely fragile as is the die cast carburetor like you have. The crappy diecast metallurgy was the culprit. The mechanical AC pump was adequate with a updraft carburetor. I feel that your engine is the Standard engine. If it has a water manifold running above the intake and exhaust manifolds then it is a Master series engine. Your car still has the infamous Marvel heat riser. There are volumes of information here about that. Good luck on the brakes. You will eventually get it figured out. Everything there looks really solid. Have fun.
  6. Many fuel sediment bowls had a fine mesh brass screen that set up, inside the housing. Between the screen and gravity settling out water and solids, filtration should be good. Many tractor restoration parts suppliers have the screen and the sediment bowl gasket.
  7. This type lug wrench was commonly used in the 1920s. Little leverage yields low torque.
  8. Ok Bug. Your car has 5 wheel clamps, not 6. So if your chassis is a 1929 it is a 116" or STANDARD series car. Master series uses 6 wheel clamps. Only Australia had small series roadsters in 1929. Someone could have made it into a roadster. Does your engine have a mechanical fuel pump? If so then it is 1929 up. Pot metal carburetor is 1929 up. What is the number on the underside of the fuel bowl? Starts with a 10- ? Post a photo of the left side of the engine.
  9. If your wheel system uses the 5 or 6 clamps , near the tire , where the fellow meets the wheel , the torque is pretty low. To support this look on Ebay at Jaxon wheel lug wrench. Note the small amount of leverage available with this tool. If you over torque you will damage the clamp and the fellow. The correct clamps are getting difficult to find. Do not over torque.
  10. You may need to slightly file the points. I have had to scuff brand new points to get them to work.
  11. This car is a perfect candidate for someone ultimately looking for a dependable driver car. As nice as the interior is, it will only look so so with the exterior restored. The car will cost more to do a total restoration than it is worth. I feel that if you took time sourcing the front end parts that the parts cost should be 2k-3k at the most. The driveline is apparently in good condition to be able to handle the drive that it did. It appears to be an easy repair with little risk of surprises. Id fix it or sell as is.
  12. Steve the current limiting relay is a fairly difficult piece to find. Do you not have one at all? If you do it can usually be reconditioned ,if they aren't in too bad of shape. Relays from other vehicles besides the 1929 can sometimes be used.
  13. While pan is off double check to make sure there is no issues with the oil distribution piping, as in dumping of pressurized oil. I always hand prime an oil pump with a heavy oil just before installation. Your problem has to be something simple.
  14. I agree with Bob. Babbit is very forgiving. Factory babbit is even better. If this is the worst bearing surface in this engine and it has good oil pressure in all operating conditions I would definitely run it. You may spend some time getting the oil pump in good condition. You can also play with oil viscosities some to obtain desired oil pressures . If you drive her responsibly , you can have many years of use while avoiding thousands of dollars in engine rebuild cost.
  15. I have had grabbing brakes due to a seeping wheel cylinder. It would clear up after a few hard stops each time.
  16. That is a worn out starter ring gear for sure. It has a really interesting wear pattern as if the flywheel was mounted incorrectly.
  17. A local industrial supply house or McMaster Carr can supply the copper or brass pieces.
  18. I would totally eliminate the exhaust flow through the heat riser system. Use of the heat riser system has no benefit and only creates problems today. There are many discussions here about the procedure. You can leave all components in place for original appearance. On my 1929 I brass welded a plate in the exhaust diverter valve shown just to where the butterfly would clear it. This blocks all exhaust and still allows for installation of the heat tube. I did the same at the heat riser housing. Lastly I used a thin piece of stainless steel shim stock material between the exhaust manifold and the heat riser. You can disconnect the linkage or whatever you choose. Elimination of heat to the heat riser will greatly increase the life of the tube inside the heat riser housing.
  19. Mark is right. I don't see anything that can dampen or absorb vibration. The engine is going to be vibrating and moving around a lot in the mounts. Movement must be allowed. The work quality looks great but after hours of use thigs can change. Im almost certain that dead copper washers will be required on the banjo fitting to work over time.
  20. Id check the free things first. Timing is a common problem if set too far advanced. I have verified this during a hot, difficult start by simply pulling the coil wire before spinning the engine. If it spins fast with the coil wire disconnected then timing is too far advanced. Next , battery cables and connections. I like making my battery cables out of welding lead with a fiberglass sleeve on the outside. I use crimp on ends like shown in the link. Most heavy truck parts stores with have these battery cable ends. I have also had a solenoid with eroded contacts between the two large lugs. You wont see it but a tired solenoid can really limit what a good starter can do , especially hot. I have also used a thermal hunting scope to trouble shoot hot spots and high resistance areas. It really works well in certain conditions. https://www.remybattery.com/3-0-gauge-straight-battery-terminal-clamp-connector.html
  21. Clevite is a common manufacturer. NAPA , Ebay or almost any engine parts supplier can help you.
  22. Chrysler 215, 251 and 265. Probably Chrysler Industrial engine.
  23. Hello Bill. I completely disassembled, cleaned and reassembled mine myself. Removal of the lubricating grease that turned into tar was the largest challenge. It an easy job.
  24. My 1929 Master tank was full of rust . The bottom looked like swiss cheese. A ReNu dealer sectioned in a new floor and sealed it. This was almost 10 years ago. Still great. Lifetime warranty AND didn't have to worry with fitment of a newly fabricated tank
  25. These wedges are common to almost all heavy trucks. If I recall the 18500 Eatons from the 1960s-1980s used this 7/16" wedge. Most newer axles went to 5/8" stud. Almost any older, well established heavy truck parts store should have these on hand. All that it needs to do is center the mounting bracket in relation to the bolt.
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