raydurr

That is a worn out starter ring gear for sure. It has a really interesting wear pattern as if the flywheel was mounted incorrectly.

A local industrial supply house or McMaster Carr can supply the copper or brass pieces.

I would totally eliminate the exhaust flow through the heat riser system. Use of the heat riser system has no benefit and only creates problems today. There are many discussions here about the procedure. You can leave all components in place for original appearance. On my 1929 I brass welded a plate in the exhaust diverter valve shown just to where the butterfly would clear it. This blocks all exhaust and still allows for installation of the heat tube. I did the same at the heat riser housing. Lastly I used a thin piece of stainless steel shim stock material between the exhaust manifold and the heat riser. You can disconnect the linkage or whatever you choose. Elimination of heat to the heat riser will greatly increase the life of the tube inside the heat riser housing.

Mark is right. I don't see anything that can dampen or absorb vibration. The engine is going to be vibrating and moving around a lot in the mounts. Movement must be allowed. The work quality looks great but after hours of use thigs can change. Im almost certain that dead copper washers will be required on the banjo fitting to work over time.

Id check the free things first. Timing is a common problem if set too far advanced. I have verified this during a hot, difficult start by simply pulling the coil wire before spinning the engine. If it spins fast with the coil wire disconnected then timing is too far advanced. Next , battery cables and connections. I like making my battery cables out of welding lead with a fiberglass sleeve on the outside. I use crimp on ends like shown in the link. Most heavy truck parts stores with have these battery cable ends. I have also had a solenoid with eroded contacts between the two large lugs. You wont see it but a tired solenoid can really limit what a good starter can do , especially hot. I have also used a thermal hunting scope to trouble shoot hot spots and high resistance areas. It really works well in certain conditions. https://www.remybattery.com/3-0-gauge-straight-battery-terminal-clamp-connector.html

Clevite is a common manufacturer. NAPA , Ebay or almost any engine parts supplier can help you.

Chrysler 215, 251 and 265. Probably Chrysler Industrial engine.

Hello Bill. I completely disassembled, cleaned and reassembled mine myself. Removal of the lubricating grease that turned into tar was the largest challenge. It an easy job.

My 1929 Master tank was full of rust . The bottom looked like swiss cheese. A ReNu dealer sectioned in a new floor and sealed it. This was almost 10 years ago. Still great. Lifetime warranty AND didn't have to worry with fitment of a newly fabricated tank

These wedges are common to almost all heavy trucks. If I recall the 18500 Eatons from the 1960s-1980s used this 7/16" wedge. Most newer axles went to 5/8" stud. Almost any older, well established heavy truck parts store should have these on hand. All that it needs to do is center the mounting bracket in relation to the bolt.

I know that these may vary slightly but may work fine for little cost. These are 7/16" drive axle flange wedges available from NAPA . Price is right if they work. Part # TWD R005737

For proper shifting my 1929 Master demands the correct heavy transmission oil AND proper timing of shifting between gears. These non synchronized transmissions require an exact amount of engine RPM drop before shifting into the next higher gear. Don't force it, it will teach you what it likes.

Since you are using stainless , I would possibly drill and thread your new bezel. Stainless is durable enough.

Don't be intimidated by mounting and dismounting these type tires. Its not very difficult. Getting the tube and flap centered can be a learning experience at first. This task is more about finesse than force. If it requires much muscle you are doing it wrong. In the old manuals it mentioned using talcum powder to relieve sticking of rubber components to each other.

Mine grounds directly below the switch where the body meets the frame. A body mounting bolt does the grounding I believe. Mine is a 29-41.

Currently Exxon Mobile carries a modern steam cylinder oil called Mobil Extra Hecla Super Cylinder Oil which has a ISO viscosity of 680. Has anyone used it?

I fill mine to the top two times a year. I do this with the u joint life in mind. I prefer oil dripped on the drain pans rather than replacing an almost impossible to find u joint. In addition , on a 1929, the rear section of the transmission must be removed to remove the old u joint . The u joint must be pressed off.The rear bearing is usually lost in this process.

Hubert if it runs satisfactory just run it. I have to accept many imperfections with my car to prevent spending countless hours and many dollars.

To have such new plug wires leaking voltage like you described seems like voltage saturation due to high resistance, possibly in the spark plug. I have experienced this before as I created a heavy buildup on new plugs during break in and tuning. I replaced the plugs and the voltage leak disappeared.

Thanks Mark. Do you remember the source that you used for your LED bulbs?

When I replaced the wiring harness everything was wire wheel buffed or sandblasted. I guess I could have overlooked something.

I have been experiencing short life cycles concerning headlamp bulbs in my 1929 Buick. Correct voltage is being maintained during use. Who has experience with the new LED replacement headlamp bulbs such as those sold by Restoration Supply?

How is the engine rebuild coming? Any problems?

The are many vintage cars with freeze cracked blocks, not all are fatal. Severity and location is important. I have used radiator stop leak successfully to play and have fun until ready to do a thorough teardown and repair. Cracks that could put coolant into crankcase oil is quite a bit riskier but I can assure you people still run them with careful observation. Show us some photos.

A word of caution not related to your fuel delivery issue. I would strongly suggest replacing the standard hardware store flat washers that is used in your manifold mounting. Without this there is a risk of a cracked exhaust manifold. Originally the were cone shaped belleville type washers used. This allowed some thermal growth of the exhaust manifold. I always use them .I also grease both sides of my manifold gaskets. Lastly I am very conservative on the torque to secure them. I have also read that fuel pumps set up for updraft carburetors may have lower fuel pressure than required for the higher carburetor mounting. This can be taken care of by changing a spring or two. Fuel pump rebuilders can help with that. Good luck.