raydurr

I second using Tony Bult . Sometimes he can be a little slow but he is very knowledgeable on the Marvels used on 1927-1930 Buicks . He has spare parts and carbs on hand. I sent mine to him to work out a few issues. He even test ran it on one of his own cars before sending it back. Find someone else who does that. If you need a fresh fuel pump for a 29 let me know. I have one ready to go. Everyone needs a spare.

Car probably has points issues at the least. I would check for proper adjustment first. I would then move to sanding or replacing the contacts. The contacts are the issue most of the time.

I would start by verifying spark to the distributor. Remove coil wire from distributor cap , turn on ignition switch and have someone spin the engine. There should be a strong spark with the ability to jump at least 1/2 inch. If there is not adequate spark then its probably ignition. When attempting to start a cold engine do not hold choke closed continually for too long . I like to choke it hard a few seconds then open quickly to give it a breath of air. Starting techniques can vary between cars and conditions.

Be aware that all engine stands are not created equal. That Buick engine is not only heavy, it is long which puts extra strain on the rotating head and pivot. It is also TALL which can be difficult to manage when rotating the engine. I cannot stand the new import stand which I believe are made for Asian engines. For years I have used a 1970s vintage Walker 5/8 ton USA made stand. These can still be located used. I have had large ford and GM truck engines on it with ALL the accessories. Yes it was loaded but I never felt unsafe using it. A stand like this should be the minimum for the Buick engine. A failure could result in an injury or months of setbacks. Play it safe.

I would like to add some of my experiences with my 29 Buick carb. If the car sits for several weeks the jets seem to partly stop up resulting in the lean/ back fire pop. Sometimes it clears up with some aggressive driving while pulling the choker closed suddenly. Also the air valve tension controlled by the large 1 inch diameter screw may need a very slight adjustment. A little goes a long way here. A steady, full volume fuel supply must be maintained. A weak fuel pump or blocked line can cause this condition. A fuel pump with an old rebuild can be affected by modern fuels. Distributor wear is a very real situation .Worn or improperly adjusted points. Intake manifold gaskets should be checked. Check the heat tube. Last but not least , make sure all the fuel is fresh. Old fuel does not vaporize like fresh fuel does. Good luck!

Tad , it could be several things causing this driving condition. A very common issue with the Marvel carb and heat riser is the development of pin holes in the heat riser tube. It is a sheet metal tube pressed into the heat riser housing. It allows exhaust to enter the intake charge. It will only get worse until the heat tube is replaced. The Marvel carburetors are prone to many issues as well such the venturi flap sticking. You will probably have to start a systematic elimination of all things ignition and carburetor/intake related to resolve the issue.

Dave hope it all ends well. An elder of mine once told me that the only people that do not make mistakes are people who don't do anything. This is still true. Sometimes the harder I try to have nice things the more mistakes I make.

The timing indicator on my 29 is on the front of the flywheel housing ,behind a swing away cover. The most common causes of overheating on the Buick in lines are blocked radiator passages and blocked coolant passages in the block water jackets. In this forum you will find many discussions regarding this topic. Since you appear to have the manifolds removed, I would also remove the long coolant cover to inspect and remove any possible gunk. There is usually quite a bit . Good luck!

Is the vibration engine , driveline or chassis? The pulse rate or frequency can help determine this. Drive car at 50-55 mph then pop transmission in neutral. If the vibration persist even though engine is now at idle, then problem is driveline or tire related. Tire or wheel vibration seems to have a slower, steadier frequency. Driveshafts can almost have a buzz. Did vibration begin after some repair or modification was performed?

Heat shields should deflect or absorb radiant heat only.Heat transfer from block or contact with other components will occur with or without heat shields. A gap for air flow between the shield and the subject part should be maintained.

My headlamp plug configurations sounds to be the same as yours. All parts were stripped . Parts were masked to ensure good connection once reassembled. Power supply to bulbs appears to be strong and even. Bulbs usually fail when driving. No vibrations or adverse road conditions.

American made , NORS bulbs from different sources.

All wiring has been replaced. Battery connection is clean and tight. Generator output appears to be steady according to the ammeter . Headlamp switch has been reconditioned. No electrical gremlins whatsoever other than the headlamps bulbs failing.

I have been having headlamp bulbs burn out for sometime. I have 21 CP installed now, which have burned out. I have lost no other bulbs. I have checked my charging system output with a voltage meter. It shows 7.6 volts as a maximum reading with engine revved up. What should the maximum permissible voltage be?

What is the thickness of an original manifold washer? The .070 seems thin.

It's possible that mine is plumbed wrong. Been running it like this for years. Before I owned car it had no filter. My filtet had no markings and I had no resources at the time to investigate proper install. Good luck.

Check this out.http://www.29buickphotos.com/Repairs/Oil-Filter-Info/i-3P5CJLn

According to my Fluke meter idle voltage is 7.0 and revved I see a occasional max voltage of 7.6. No other bulbs are having issues, only headlamps.

My car has a reproduction with a modern spin on element. I purchase it new , uninstalled from an individual .

Here's a better shot of my filter plumbing. The rear line has unusual bends as it was salvaged from a Standard series car. Mine is a Master.

Shown is correct oil filter lines and fittings on my 1929 Buick. I assume 1930 would be the same or very close.

Hello guys.1929-41. I am at an end trying to solve my head lamp bulb problem. I have replaced bulbs several times and they still fail after only a few miles of driving. I have used new Chinese looking bulbs and very old new American made bulbs. I have used 32 CP and 21 CP bulbs. Headlamp are completely stock. Wiring is new. Switch restored. No other bulbs of other lights on the car fail prematurely. Charging system is unmolested. Group 1 6 volt battery . All connections are clean and tight. Everything electrical on the car operates as it should. Any suggestions?

I have a recently rebuilt 1929 Buick fuel pump. The pump will free from cracks. Linkages have been checked or replaced. Price is $400.00. May consider trades for other 1929 Buick parts.

On the oil flow, your oil flow looks normal for cold oil at idle. There is no evidence of oil starvation such as shavings or hot parts. My 29 does the same cold, but take it for a drive, pop the valve cover off then rev the engine with hot oil and oil goes everywhere. My 29 engine has almost the same sound at idle for as long as I can remember. I have adjusted valves with no luck. May be piston slap or wrist pin. Possibly in the accessories. I don't fear engine failure at all. I also inspected cam and followers last time pan was off, all looked great . Check what you can to safeguard , then run it.

I have (4) 6.50-20 Denman tires. Black wall with 80% tread remaining. They have some cracking . The tread is a rib design. I drove the car they were removed from the last 2-3 years with no problems. Tires include tubes and flaps. asking $40.00 each plus shipping. I also have one much older 6.00-20 Goodyear black wall tire . Contact Ray 936-635-7777 or lizdurrett@yahoo.com