raydurr

A crude but easy way to check for "leaky" plug wires is to start engine in total darkness and move plug wires around with an insulated object. I have done this numerous times to help locate voltage loss in ignition wires and caps.

Check out EBAY item 263674723479 . Shown is a 1929 or 1930 Buick Master series engine. The first thing I noticed is the down draft intake and carb. These are not Buick pieces, as the exhaust manifold outlet is in the center. I heard years ago that certain 1940s GMC inline manifolds could be used. It looks very usable setup for those tired of their updraft issues. What do you guys know about this?

L&L Antique Auto Trim , Pierce City MO was the only source that I know of. I haven't seen their site up in a few years . Let us know if they are still taking orders.

My 29 does fine with no electric fuel pump. Though not original, I prefer a high grade rubber hose between the mechanical fuel pump and the carburetor. This allows for a common , inexpensive inline fuel filter. I know of people , while trying to use the original metal tube connecting the fuel pump to the carburetor , to break either the fuel pump or the carburetor while reconnecting. This old pot metal is getting brittle. If running a new line from the tank to fuel pump I would use steel. The original tubing was brass. Copper can be very brittle and dangerous. Good luck.

Typically a backfire through the intake indicates a lean condition. Sometime my 29 likes to pop back unless the choke is slightly pulled out. After some driving the condition usually goes away.

Oil suddenly coming out of these tubes is a sign of a heavy lean to that side or overfilled differential oil level. A gradually appearing leak would be seals as felt doesn't suddenly fail. Id run it and check oil level periodically. It can even be a little low and still operate safely.

I have removed soap suds from radiators by running engine for 30-45 minutes with a garden hose in the radiator constantly overflowing it with water. Its a bit messy but always worked. It also can be used to "float" oil from a cooling system.

They do have cores sometimes, call Feltz Terrill and ask. Very good people to deal with. I think you may also save some money by calling them.

If your fuel pump hasn't been rebuilt in the past five years I would rebuild it while the fuel tank is out. It will definitely require a rebuild if hasn't been rebuilt since the use of ethanol fuel has started. Need to also consider the replacement of rubber fuel hoses as well. I use Terrill Machine in Deleon Tx. for pump rebuilds. Great guys there.

Moyer performed a rebuild of my fuel tank in 2012 for my 1929 Buick. The tank had been unused for decades and the floor of the tank was like swiss cheese. They cut out the affected areas and carefully welded in a new section. The tank fit great and the renu took care of any rust. I am very happy and at the time a lifetime warranty was given. Any time trying to revive a car to driver status the fuel tank is one of the first things I take care of. I don't battle rust if I can avoid it and its not worth risking fuel pump or carburetor damage , not to mention the nuisance of a underpowered car. Id do it in a minute if planning on using the car.

Bob that is interesting. Commercial trucks today have clutch brake. On trucks they wont hold the vehicle but they definitely stop the input shaft.

I wish that I was there to help you troubleshoot. My 29s factory system grounds to the frame with the main cable then uses a woven strap from the frame to the starter motor. I know that your technique should work but I am trying to help you eliminate variables so to speak. Sometimes things like I am mentioning only takes a few minutes to implement compared to days going the traditional route. It has to be something simple. I wish that I could help more.

Not preaching here, when troubleshooting I did recommend connecting ground from battery directly to starter motor. Use completely different positive and negative leads. This is how you eliminate potential causes without guesswork. Use known good cables from another vehicle so you don't have to spend more money. I learned this from experience , the hard way. When grounding directly to the frame , a good ground "strap" should be used between the frame and starting motor in a permanent installation. Current should never flow through driveline or other components where bearings could be damaged from current flow.Care must be given that paint and other coatings do not interfere with having 100% connections which are very important especially on 6 volt systems. I'm willing to bet it something really simple. Its frustrating. Walk away , ponder it then try again.

I would maybe install the battery on another car to insure that it is indeed operational. I would also try using different positive and negative battery cables, grounding directly to the starter motor itself. Its worth a try.

I don't think I have any photos. It was left over "green grabber" lining that I used on my parking brake reline. I think it was 3/16 thick and I cut it with my cut off saw. Not original but worked well.

I used a new piece of the left over brake lining material . It works well.

I use hydraulic jack oil from an auto parts supply house.

I know I am about to get lambasted for what my grandfather told me fixed clutch grabbing on 1929 Buick cars. He owned several Buicks from 1927 thru early 30s. 1929s were his favorite for his rural delivery routes on unpaved roads in East Texas. I think he owned up to five 1929s over the years. He swore this took the grab out of clutch release and engagement. He would block the bell housing drain slot with cloth or paper. He would remove the clutch inspection handhole from the upper bell housing. He would fill the flywheel housing with "coal oil" or kerosene for a few minutes. He would work the clutch pedal maybe even starting the engine. He would then drain the fluid from the housing. He said clutch would feel funny at engagement for a period but it always stopped the chatter. My 1929 Buick clutch chatters but not unbearable.

My 1929 Master gets 15W-40 diesel oil plus a can of STP. My engine in far from new or fresh. Engines with wear don't mind heavier oils. If not using a multi viscosity oil I would use SAE 40. I am not sure how important zinc is with my roller cam followers. I would supplement with zinc to be safe for sure. Theres my 2 cents worth.

I haven't encountered much from the era of this cars production that was very hard. Id be surprised if the pin is harder than a Grade 5 bolt.

The base and lever housing look 1930.

To begin , the factory 1929 Buick manual brake adjustment procedure , even though correct is very confusing. You could adjust through basic reasoning if certain baseline criteria are meet. One overlooked area of easy braking is clevis pins. most are rusty or sticking. Each rod or cable will utilize them. All clevis pins must float freely for optimum results. Return springs in the original places are a must. The brake linings need to be of the exact same material and be the same age. Soft weave is best. Make sure no rods or linkage components have been modified. Each wheel on my 29 has various adjustments to some degree. It is trial and error at some point. I frequently check the brake drum temperature with my hand after each drive.

In my 1929 Master I run 600W from MACs in the transmission and the differential. I think the transmission is 2-3 quarts and the differential close a gallon. I'm not really sure on the refill capacity. The heavy 600W is really the only lube I have used that allows easy shifting. It also slows down on leaks some.

My 29 had no felt in the cup area. It does have a leather boot that was secured with wire. It encases the the area where the ball and cup articulate. It protects the surfaces from exposure to road elements. I do see in the cutaway about what appears to be a felt strip in the cup area where it contacts the ball.