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About michaelod

  • Birthday 03/19/1953

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  1. My solution for this has been two good American Shorthair (Tabby) cats. These guys are happiest when they have something to hunt and keep my shop clear of every living thing other than people, and that includes bugs, spiders, rodents, and lizards.
  2. It is really hard to find one of the shutter diaphragm's if yours is missing. The best method I found was to purchase an entire radiator on eBay which come up from time to time (assuming the diaphragm is present), keep what you need and then resell the radiator. I acquired one this way and had Jim Otto rebuild it. Pretty much broke even on the radiator and was only out the cost of the diaphragm rebuild. Thanks,
  3. Many thanks to all who responded to my inquiry. Now it looks like I have some good options to consider. Thanks again,
  4. I am looking for a good experienced engine rebuilder for my 1930 Model 68 (Master) Buick with a stock 331 C.I. motor. Prefer someone in the North Carolina area, but am willing to ship the engine if necessary. Looking for someone who can do a complete rebuild of the engine and I am willing to spend whatever is required to accomplish that task. Thanks,
  5. I realize this is an old thread, but I thought I would add some clarity. The 1930 Buick 50 and 60 series cars had a 331 C.I. motor. Both of these series are viewed as 'Master' whereas the 40 series is considered to be 'Standard'. Having said that this nomenclature is accurate for the 1930 model year only. Beginning in 1931 the 50 series is a smaller, base model car. The 1930 60 series car is recognized as a full classic by the CCCA and is the equivalent of the 90 series beginning in 1931. The best way to identify a 331 series motor is by the cooling pipe mounted on top of the head on the drivers side of the engine. The picture from the original poster is taken from the passenger side and it is impossible to determine what this is based on the photo alone. The engine from the Master series car in 1929 visually looks the same as that in 1930, however the bore is smaller, giving it a smaller displacement.
  6. I have a set of 4 original hubcaps for a 1934 Buick for sale. The hubcaps measure 8 inches in diameter and I believe these are for the smaller series cars. They are all restorable however the last hubcap in the series of pictures would require considerably more work than the other three. Only tiny dings on the rest. All the hubcaps should be replated for show quality. I would like $125 plus shipping for the set or best offer.
  7. I towed my 1930 Buick Model 68 Victoria Coupe which is very similar to yours on a rented U-Haul trailer without any problem at all. At most you might have to unbolt the front bumper for a bit more clearance, but I am certain it will handle the weight just fine. Granted it is not an enclosed trailer, but will work OK in a pinch.
  8. I have the following parts for a 1930 Buick listed on ebay: Starter Pedal Surround Bracket, 40, 50, and 60 series - $25 https://www.ebay.com/itm/222717053449?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Gas Pedal, 40, 50, and 60 series - $25 https://www.ebay.com/itm/222717050294?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Door Striker Plate, 40, 50, and 60 series - $12 https://www.ebay.com/itm/222717044795?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Front motor mount, 40 series - $25 https://www.ebay.com/itm/222717032025?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Dash panel, 50, 60 series ( maybe 40 series but not sure) - $165 https://www.ebay.com/itm/222717017260?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Thanks, Michael
  9. Actually I have rebuilt these exact model of fuel pumps twice before and they are very easy to do with a bit of caution. I was just curious about the results when using carburetor cleaner. Thanks, Michael
  10. Just have a general question. I am planning on rebuilding a fuel pump for a 1930 Buick with a potmetal body. Can the fuel pump be soaked in carburetor cleaner prior to rebuilding without damage? I am just referring to the disassembled potmetal body itself, not any rubber or fabric based parts. Thanks, Michael
  11. I understand your point and it is hard to say with 100% certainty. I copied the preceding statement from the Amazon listing for the product which I assume was supplied by the manufacturer. Look at the product details near the photo: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033QQ4S0/ref=psdc_15718901_t1_B000CNJ6JG
  12. Just to be clear this antifreeze contains OAT technology and is not compatible with your car, regardless of the marketing on the label. From Zerex about this exact product: " A patented organic acid corrosion inhibitor package to provide extended engine protection against rust and corrosion." That by definition is an OAT antifreeze and is not what you want. Not trying to start an argument here, but please take the time to do a bit or research on the subject, and if you are still happy with putting this in your car then good enough.
  13. Sorry but Bill is absolutely correct on this issue. Things have changed considerably in the last decade with respect to antifreeze and one needs to take the time to familiarize oneself with the documentation on the topic. Color and brand alone will not suffice. Your cooling system is not compatible with OAT technology and can be damaged by it. What you want is the old IAT formula. Much of the Zerex green antifreeze now uses an OAT formulation. Actually there are very few brands left that still use IAT. What I am using is: PEAK PKA0B3 Antifreeze Coolant,1 gal.,RTU G4037741 Search for it on eBay or Amazon.
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