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michaelod

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About michaelod

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  • Birthday 03/19/1953

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  1. My solution for this has been two good American Shorthair (Tabby) cats. These guys are happiest when they have something to hunt and keep my shop clear of every living thing other than people, and that includes bugs, spiders, rodents, and lizards.
  2. It is really hard to find one of the shutter diaphragm's if yours is missing. The best method I found was to purchase an entire radiator on eBay which come up from time to time (assuming the diaphragm is present), keep what you need and then resell the radiator. I acquired one this way and had Jim Otto rebuild it. Pretty much broke even on the radiator and was only out the cost of the diaphragm rebuild. Thanks,
  3. Many thanks to all who responded to my inquiry. Now it looks like I have some good options to consider. Thanks again,
  4. I am looking for a good experienced engine rebuilder for my 1930 Model 68 (Master) Buick with a stock 331 C.I. motor. Prefer someone in the North Carolina area, but am willing to ship the engine if necessary. Looking for someone who can do a complete rebuild of the engine and I am willing to spend whatever is required to accomplish that task. Thanks,
  5. I realize this is an old thread, but I thought I would add some clarity. The 1930 Buick 50 and 60 series cars had a 331 C.I. motor. Both of these series are viewed as 'Master' whereas the 40 series is considered to be 'Standard'. Having said that this nomenclature is accurate for the 1930 model year only. Beginning in 1931 the 50 series is a smaller, base model car. The 1930 60 series car is recognized as a full classic by the CCCA and is the equivalent of the 90 series beginning in 1931. The best way to identify a 331 series motor is by the cooling pipe mounted on top of the head on th
  6. I have a set of 4 original hubcaps for a 1934 Buick for sale. The hubcaps measure 8 inches in diameter and I believe these are for the smaller series cars. They are all restorable however the last hubcap in the series of pictures would require considerably more work than the other three. Only tiny dings on the rest. All the hubcaps should be replated for show quality. I would like $125 plus shipping for the set or best offer.
  7. I towed my 1930 Buick Model 68 Victoria Coupe which is very similar to yours on a rented U-Haul trailer without any problem at all. At most you might have to unbolt the front bumper for a bit more clearance, but I am certain it will handle the weight just fine. Granted it is not an enclosed trailer, but will work OK in a pinch.
  8. I have the following parts for a 1930 Buick listed on ebay: Starter Pedal Surround Bracket, 40, 50, and 60 series - $25 https://www.ebay.com/itm/222717053449?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Gas Pedal, 40, 50, and 60 series - $25 https://www.ebay.com/itm/222717050294?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Door Striker Plate, 40, 50, and 60 series - $12 https://www.ebay.com/itm/222717044795?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Front motor mount, 40 series - $25 https:/
  9. Actually I have rebuilt these exact model of fuel pumps twice before and they are very easy to do with a bit of caution. I was just curious about the results when using carburetor cleaner. Thanks, Michael
  10. Just have a general question. I am planning on rebuilding a fuel pump for a 1930 Buick with a potmetal body. Can the fuel pump be soaked in carburetor cleaner prior to rebuilding without damage? I am just referring to the disassembled potmetal body itself, not any rubber or fabric based parts. Thanks, Michael
  11. I will have to research this as I am unfamiliar with these fuel pumps. Thanks for the information and I will check it out.
  12. Thanks for the heads up on these parts. I will contact him to see if the fuel pump is still available. Not sure however if a 40 series pump will work on a 60 series engine though.
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