MikeC5

Here's a screen shot of the AutoCad drawing. It's going to be used to mount wind wings on the Dodge. I had been looking for some time for some wind wing mount brackets and the choices were pretty much limited to either clamp-on style (on the windshield stanchions) or brackets designed to thread into a tapped hole (or bolted through) the stanchion. I wasn't too keen on either method and did not want to drill holes in the stanchions. A fellow Dodge brother posted a photo of how someone mounted them to his car (2nd pic), which to me seemed much more elegant than clamp-on brackets. The flat bar bolts on in place of the windshield pivot washers, giving a place to mount the wind wing brackets. I simply refined the idea to make them look more integrated. If anyone wants a copy of the AutoCad file, I'll be glad to send a copy. I'm using Ford Model A-style brackets. Cost was $104 for 2 of them, including the steel and shipping.

I recently used Emachineshop .com and was pleased with the results. It was a simple 2D shape made from 1/4" steel (I supplied a .dwg file) but they quoted quickly and I had my part in a week.

That hood badge really pops now!

I always found Moon discs to look good on those trucks...

If you go with new pistons and pins, I would expect them to be pretty close to each other weight-wise. It was when you mentioned the possible mixing of rods from 2 or more engines that I'd be a little nervous about the rods being close to the same weight. Production variations and all that...

Lookin' good!

Using another crank will not be a problem as long as the new mains babbitt is line bored/reamed to the appropriate diameter. The crank should be checked for cracks and bend too. I see no reason not to use the other rods you have so long as they are checked for cracks and straightness (I don't recall ever seeing new rods for sale). It would also be good to have them all weigh near the same too. As for the cam, I know I've seen lift specs, probably in the MIM.

Tony, the car looks really nice in that pale yellow!

You might search around at the Model T sight, MTFCA. I've seen many interesting posts on blocks that have been brought back 'from the dead'.The older, pre-1912 or so blocks are rare enough that much effort goes into saving them.

I was happy with the work I had done here: https://www.harryheitinauto.com/ They pieced together a radiator for my 25 Dodge from two carcasses and a new core. Nice work and fairly priced imho. They're in Worcester. Mass.

Sorry to hear. Good thing you have a spare. We're getting another 6 inches of snow today so the Dodge is still in hibernation.

I was just kidding. But it does remind me of the B&S logo...

At least your 50% there with the B&S....

I would imagine that Myers Early Dodge may be able to help you out. I was able to buy good used lug nuts from them.

I would agree the wine corks is the most fun idea but you could also source a Dodge Brothers oil level float (brass). The DB four cylinder cars used them for several years. Myers Early Dodge might have a good used one.

I'm no expert and only have experience with the 1925 engine (still used the starter/generator combo) but it appears that the intake set up for 1926 was the same as 1925 in that there is no intake manifold and the hot air cross over was still employed. I found a photo like the one Wheelmag posted and it was labeled as a 1927. In any case, unless you're going for a 100 point restoration and are concerned about keeping everything absolutely original, it's best to leave out the cross over pipe for reasons mentioned earlier. I did notice in the Parts List that different tappet covers may have been available with no hole. I also found this photo of a '26 engine which appears to not have the hole. I'm planning to cover the openings on both sides of the block to try and keep some dirt out (since there is no oil filter).

That's a real nice trio of Studebakers!

It's good to know there are still people like Bruce out there. Sounds like a fun trip!

Glad to hear that you got the vacuum tank working. I think you have a Gemmer steering box on yours. There are things you can do to improve them but also take a look at your king pins and tie rod ends too.

The pads are sewn up. The right side looks smoother. I just couldn't get the wrinkles out of the left side. I hope they won't be obvious under the top material... I also threw in a couple of photos of the temporary top rests I made. I turned them down on a lathe and then heat/bend. Eventually I'll find some vintage ones and replace these. Finding the correct Dodge ones is a bit of a holy grail...

Hi Al, I think when I registered for the AACA website the display name MikeC had already been claimed. I just stuck a number on the end. Not that I would mind having a C5...

I rented one of their car trailers to bring mine home. No issues.

I have a pdf copy of an article on rebuilding the Delco Lovejoy. It's 9 MB total. I could email it to you if you want to PM your email address.

True dat!

They are a heavy chunk of iron! As for upping the performance on them, it really isn't necessary when it's working properly. Unless you've added some accessory that draws a lot of current, the generator will put out more than needed. In fact, I always run with the headlights on or my battery gets overcharged. The voltage regulation using the 3rd brush can be adjusted but it is rather primitive as far as keeping the battery 'happy'. If you want to do some upgrading in the electrical system, I would suggest looking at the diode conversion to replace the cut-off relay (which is located in the starter foot switch housing). You can buy one already modified or DIY. If you search on the topic in AACA forums (not just DB) you will find various threads.