MikeC5

I'm looking for a topper to put on my '25 that says "Repeal the 18th Amendment"...

Thanks all. I see the POR-15 two part urethane top coat looks like it would do a nice job. I wonder if brush painting it requires a forced-air respirator? There are marine paints too that look like they would do the job. Color palette is pretty limited though.

I’m reserecting this old thread to see if anyone knows of a good quality paint (available in U.S.) that would be suitable for brush painting a car. I’ve tried searching on coach paint, etc. but all I’m able to turn up are references to Rust-Oleum. Can a catalyzed enamel be brush painted on? I don’t want to use anything more toxic than that.

OK thanks again Dave.

Thanks very much Dave. That makes a lot more sense. Would the underside piece wrap up onto the front of the bow and get stapled? Or would it just be stapled to the bottom of the bow? Something to stiffen it up also makes sense.

Dave, I'm hoping you can clarify the construction of the windshield visor/weather flap. I'm trying to reconcile the brief mention that Stitts makes, in his article of re-topping, with what I'm seeing on the pictured Dodge. Stitts: "A piece of top material long enough to stretch from end to end of the front bow can be folded double, outside face out, and sewed along the inside edge. This can then be stretched across the front of the windshield to deflect rain or wind." He goes on to say, "This strip can be brought through and over the top of the windshield frame. When this is done, a 1 & 1/2 - 2 inch flap must first be made for the visor so that it will press against the front of the windshield to keep out the weather." I'm really not following this and am not sure if the photos from the show Dodge were done in this manner. I've tried to sketch up what I think I see in the photos. The forward bow does sit forward of the top of windshield frame by roughly 2 inches and I'm not sure how to make the flap sit against front of windshield frame. It looks like the show Dodge has a double flap for this purpose. Any guidance would be much appreciated.

What a nice desert cruiser. I wouldn't worry too much about the originality of bits & pieces. It looks like a proper Studebaker and you can always bring it closer to original as parts/time/money allow. It's cool that it survived in decent enough shape to allow that to happen.

I had a 1965 Plymouth (Barracuda) with a 225 slant 6 that had roughly 100K miles on it when I pulled the head to have valves done. This was around 1980 and I did not have hardened valve seats installed. I drove as my daily driver for another 140K or so and poor running towards the end (around year 2000) was due to low compression. Pulled the head and found massive valve seat recession. The car never towed anything or regularly sustained heavy loads, etc. I ended up swapping in a later head in with induction hardened valve seats. If you plan to use the car as a daily driver and have any reason to pull the head off, you may be able to find a later model head with hardened valve seats already in there. Otherwise, I would suggest using a lead substitute in the gas. BTW, nice looking machine, good luck with it!

Looks like you had some critters living in the bell housing. Mine did too. When you say the valves were stuck, do you mean rusted stuck? It looks like the car was fairly well protected from the elements.

Looks like a nice compete car. Clean up the fuel system, change the oil, file the points and I'll bet it will fire right up!

Nice color (haven't seen it on a T-bird before). The '57 is my favorite of the 3 years.

Good question. One would think any grease isn't going to mix with water... It was a different color

Hi Paul, I put them in with the spring towards the inside of pump and also did put the packing ring (lantern ring). If you do put double seals in there may not be room for the packing ring though. I bought some waterproof grease at a marine supply store.

Great find! Do you know any history on the car? I'd like to see more photos when you get a chance.

A fuel pressure regulator? I'm not sure why it would have a linkage to it though. From what I've read, many electric pumps put out too much pressure for the needle valve on carb (causing flooding) and so a regulator might be used to reduce pressure.

The shaft must have been replaced recently (or not run much after a long ago replacement) if it has no grooves from the packing. Mine was also in horrible shape. I wasn't able to find any specification for backlash on the water pump drive gear mesh and the only means of adjustment is gasket thickness between pump body and block. I was getting a very noticeable and seemingly random clacking noise that turned out to be excess backlash on this gear mesh. Use of a thinner gasket solved the problem. The rubber lipped seals are the way to go...

Yea that's what I was thinking. I've been using the 10% ethanol stuff and have had no problems. If you drive it in real hot weather I think the no ethanol will be less likely to vapor lock though.

The first photo makes it look out of round. Is that the case? I'm not sure what you can do about the distorted threads beyond re-tapping them but where do you find that tap? I suppose you could try to carefully open up the threads near the slot with a thin dremel tool disc.

Nice driver. I love the Starlight coupes.

Most slant sixes have solid lifters which may factor in. You might try researching on this sight for answer: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forums/1/1/Passenger_Car_Motor_Oil_(PCMO)

I dis recently install the Walmart Everstart MAXX, Group 24, 700 cca battery in my 2002 Subaru (shoehorned it in) and it cranks it up quick so far. I think Consumer Reports had good things to say about the Everstart although I can't remember who actually manufactures them.

I thought I had a photo or two of my external brakes when I re-lined them but cannot seem to find them. I did find this one photo but it is not mine and I'm not sure if it's correct. Are there any clues in the MIM?

Very interesting video. Thanks.

I was on a business trip in Germany and the shop I visited had this stuff. I observed (jet engine) mechanics using this where a screw head or bolt head was damaged during disassembly. It did work. I should have picked some up because it doesn't appear to be available in US. I have no connection with the company that makes it... https://www.amazon.de/Schrauben-Doktor-Tube-20-gramm/dp/B0046YGX48 Roughly translated: In the paste are small corundum crystals. When the screwdriver is inserted, they are compressed and make a connection with the screw. The friction increases and (damaged head) screw can be removed.

Thanks.