MikeC5

Glad to hear that you got the vacuum tank working. I think you have a Gemmer steering box on yours. There are things you can do to improve them but also take a look at your king pins and tie rod ends too.

The pads are sewn up. The right side looks smoother. I just couldn't get the wrinkles out of the left side. I hope they won't be obvious under the top material... I also threw in a couple of photos of the temporary top rests I made. I turned them down on a lathe and then heat/bend. Eventually I'll find some vintage ones and replace these. Finding the correct Dodge ones is a bit of a holy grail...

Hi Al, I think when I registered for the AACA website the display name MikeC had already been claimed. I just stuck a number on the end. Not that I would mind having a C5...

I rented one of their car trailers to bring mine home. No issues.

I have a pdf copy of an article on rebuilding the Delco Lovejoy. It's 9 MB total. I could email it to you if you want to PM your email address.

True dat!

They are a heavy chunk of iron! As for upping the performance on them, it really isn't necessary when it's working properly. Unless you've added some accessory that draws a lot of current, the generator will put out more than needed. In fact, I always run with the headlights on or my battery gets overcharged. The voltage regulation using the 3rd brush can be adjusted but it is rather primitive as far as keeping the battery 'happy'. If you want to do some upgrading in the electrical system, I would suggest looking at the diode conversion to replace the cut-off relay (which is located in the starter foot switch housing). You can buy one already modified or DIY. If you search on the topic in AACA forums (not just DB) you will find various threads.

All good advice above. Taking off the oil pan isn't all that difficult since there is plenty of room to remove it, unlike on modern machinery where suspension parts would need to removed or the whole engine just to remove an oil pan. You can buy the oil pan gasket and felts from Myers Early Dodge or Romar.

Those are nice diagrams of the S-Gs that I don't recall seeing before. Al, if you're using a Windows based PC, it should be pretty easy to save the images one at a time. I scroll to the image I want, right click the mouse and then select 'save image as'. A window should come up with the image and then you need to name the image file at the bottom and change the file location to save it where you want at the top.

I know I've seen it somewhere. Maybe in my (1925) mechanics manual... I'll take a look.

Good point!

I had never noticed the bracket that stabilizes the horn (going up to the radiator support rod) on other cars I looked at. Mine could use one of those as the horn does rock quite a bit at idle. Does anyone know what other years used the bracket? Zooming up the photo it looks as if it may be electrical tape...

Good news Ray! When I inflated the new spare, I did wrap cargo straps through the hub hole and around the tire. I also had the tire vertical and pointed away from me while inflating it (reaching through the hole). I felt there was little chance of getting seriously injured if the ring popped off under those conditions.

Hi Ray, if you don't know how old they are and have doubts about the structural integrity, new tires sounds like the way to go. Over here they run around $200 each, which, although by no means cheap, isn't that much more than a good set of tires for the typical SUV. I hope the price is not more on your side of the pond.

It's great that you know so much of the history of the car. It sounds like you have a pretty solid case for seats being original and maybe the top too! I like those 'shocks'.

Installing a new tire and tube wasn't that difficult but I haven't had the pleasure of removing an old tire/tube yet. Were you able to get the lock ring removed or is that where you're stuck?

Vacuum... Vacuum.... Vacuum!!

It does look like a very nice find! You may want to take a good look in the gas tank with a strong light before pouring gas in there. If any gas was left in it from 10 years ago it could be a mess and should be cleaned out (best to remove tank to do this). If not, then someone did you a favor and drained it before storing the car. After you change oil and want to try and start it, you will want to prime the vacuum tank first. There may be a removable plug in the top of the vacuum tank (in center), removing plug and pouring a cup of gasoline in the tank (if no plug you'll have to remove fuel inlet fitting and pour in there). The gas gravity feeds from the vacuum tank to carb (there should be a shut off valve at bottom of vacuum tank that will need to be opened too). The rest of the starting procedure is in the Book of Information but it basically involves setting spark to full retard, pulling out choke, adjusting idle speed lever and turning on ignition. The starter button is on the floor. Good luck!

Keep in mind that loose bearing clearance might be fixed by removing a shim or two but a bad main bearing will require block removal and re-babbitting/reaming (unless things changed drastically from '25 to '26 block that is). Rod bearings don't require pulling the block but you will need accurate crank journal dimensions so the new rods can be reamed for correct clearance. You can't just swap in new bearing shells but you probably already know this. At least dropping the pan is pretty easy on these.

I see you have a '26 Sedan in your stable. Are you referring to this as a touring? A top for a 'touring car' (the 4 door, fold down top kind) must be custom made to fit, unlike the top kits you can buy for Ford Model T or A. This means you either have to find someone local to do it or be kooky enough to order the materials and try it yourself (like me).

Thanks Dave. I'll post up another couple shots with the bowdrill wrapped and ready for sewing.

LeBaron-Bonney is one place that sells the good stuff. https://www.lebaronbonney.com/cart/fabricbytheyard.php?Cc=TOPPING It ain't cheap. And I was told I'd need around 10 yards to do my '25.

Hi Dave, before I sew up these pads I wanted to ask if it looks like I have too much cotton in them. Does it look overstuffed? I used the full thickness of cotton batting you gave me..

Thanks. That is quite a catalog they have. My car is an open car and the stanchions are round. But I may be able to make these work.

The title about says it all. The car is a '25 Dodge Brothers but I'm just looking for something period correct.