MikeC5

Let us know how it goes.

Hi Art, first thing is the ignition should be retarded, not advanced, when starting. When things are properly set up, you should be able to push the choke all of the way in when the engine warms up. It could be a vacuum leak is causing a lean condition and having the choke partially out makes up for it. I don't know if you are familiar with the carb but there is a possibility that the rack & pinion were not assembled correctly. I've attached some reference material showing cross sections of the carb. The choke cable is connected to the bell crank and on the bell crank pivot shaft is a small pinion gear that engages a toothed rack. Pulling out the choke rotates the bell crank and causes the pinion gear to move the rack, which is attached to the fuel metering pin. So, the tapered metering pin moves down as the choke is pulled out further (bell crank rotates CW). The pin goes through a hole, called the fuel metering jet. Because of the taper, the fuel flow area between the hole and pin changes depending on pin position. As the pin moves down, the opening between the hole and pin (annulus) increases, allowing a richer fuel/air mixture. When assembling the carb, the relative position of the rack & pinion is important since it sets the metering pin position for driving (engine warm). If the rack was not fully up and bell crank in position shown in 2nd attachment, the needle position could be way off. I would take a close look here and I would also be sure and check static timing if you removed the distributor during the engine work. The 3rd article I attached goes through the theory and adjustment of the carb. Good luck!

Wow! It held the weight of all that for 4 days... Strong stuff! Maybe try some heat? Propane torch around perimeter of head?

Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Mine was rusted like that but I was lucky enough to get a decent pair (upper & lower) from Myers.

Some form of dynomomater must have existed back then. The Ford Model T is usually quoted as having 20 hp (from 177 c.i.). Would the 36 c.i. make the difference between 20 and 35 hp? I suspect not but I'm not sure if compression ratios were similar. They're both L-heads and have similar induction. Maybe the advance curve on the Dodge?

These are official Toyota (paper) manuals. In basically un-used shape. Only $20 for the set plus (your choice) shipping.

Ha ha! I like that one...

These cars were built during prohibition... Could be an owner-mod secret access panel for hiding hooch.

Outstanding!

Watching this video closely, It also appears the distributor drive end slot and drive gear slot are more/less aligned. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8y0gjGofwU

We learn from our mistakes and confession is good for the soul... I did look around the shop to see if I still had the old shaft lying around but I think I machined some rivets from it. I think we can take some educated guesses though. The picture here shows the water pump before I touched it. The clean, un-corroded portion of the shaft must be where it was exposed to oil in the gear drive. The heavily corroded portion must be inside the water pump (rust from water and galvanic action from contact with bronze impeller). If correct, this would mean the right end of the shaft in my original photo was the aft end (I flipped it and re-pasted it here). This suggests that the gear drive slot and the end slot (where rubber coupler goes) should be aligned, although when I look closely there does appear to be some offset between the two... maybe 20 degrees? It's a shame I didn't have that photo in focus. I can't explain why they would have bothered to put the slot in for the fan drive out of alignment with the gear drive though. The moral of the story? You can never take enough photos of tear downs.

Hi Tony, The shaft I purchased from Romar had them all in line. Sorry I don't have a photo of the new one here is a (poor) photo of the old one. This is from my '25 which has the combined starter/generator and it appears to show 3 woodruff key slots in-line. The drive gear slot had wallowed out a bit. Hope this helps.

It's great than you had a mentor/good friend to learn those skills from. The anchor is beautiful.

You have put your well equipped shop to good use. Have you only done this kind of work as a hobby or professional?

Here's another one. They were clearly not hand stamped.

Thanks anyway Willie. I've got a lot of other work to do before I worry about the top rests anyway. I got a pair in a box of parts that came with the car but they seem a bit too small to (lengthwise) to grab all 4 top sockets (and that is without the roof fabric getting in the way) so I'm going to wait until I get the top on, then fold it down and measure what's really needed. The real Dodge ones seem to be as rare as can be so I'll probably just make do with a matching pair that are functional but not 'correct'. My car has had a lot of rust repair and won't be winning any trophies so I'm not concerned about that level of authenticity.

You are doing a fine job there Matt. You have some great sheet metal skills. Was all this done with just a roller and brake? Or did you use an English Wheel?

Yes, I did get a rear window but thanks for asking.

44 for me too with no hints.

Has the car not been started for a while? If so, it could be something is gummed up. If the dash pot is stuck I believe it could cause a problem like this. A vacuum leak can also cause this symptom. This cross section shows the dash pot and is from Dyke's Automobile and Gasoline Engine Encyclopedia. I found it on Google and was able to download a copy. Lots of good general troubleshooting info in there. Do you have a copy of the DB Mechanic' Instruction Manual? I often see reprints available on Ebay for not much money. Have you searched this forum?

'25 Dodge Touring (no top) is pretty comfortable at 40-45 on a straight smooth road. It can go a little faster but I sense that the engine doesn't really like to be at the higher rpm.

Matt, I'm glad you were unscathed. It appears that the wood crushing must have absorbed a lot of the energy. It looks quite fixable but it does take time away from driving and enjoying. I hope you can get it back on the road soon.

Hi Willy, I have this photo from a '25 touring (unfortunately without scale). The Dodge parts list says the top rests are part numbers 1420 (RH) and 1421 (LH), which may appear on the casting part of the assembly.

Looks very nice. You work fast too!

I'm pretty sure you will. It may not appear so in the photo but this is a tapered end on the axle and tapered joints can be really tight.