MikeC5

That was very good and it suggests those 100th anniversary Dodge commercials may not have been too exaggerated...

That came out great!

Good idea!

I don't think I've ever seen the cap either...

I used an in-line thermostat from Restoration Supplies on my '25 Dodge. When I had the radiator re-cored it ran too cool under most conditions (it would barely register on the Motometer). This did the job. https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=119&products_id=1364

I don't think it would be that difficult to source the proper vacuum tank for your car here in the U.S. It's not a terribly large or bulky item as far as shipping, although I'm sure it isn't cheap to NZ. Just a thought.

Hi Eric, You may have searched on the forum already but I posted this a while ago and I think it gives a good idea of what is involved if you decide to try it yourself. It really wasn't very difficult. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/201925-doing-brake-linings-on-a-25/?tab=comments#comment-1027071

And dropping the oil pan on one of these is about as easy as it gets. You don't even have to jack up the car....

There are some outstanding shots in there and I only went through a small fraction of them so far.

I would guess there is some difference in refractive properties but I don't know how you would test that. I would also guess that when tapped, plate glass and safety glass of same thickness would sound different (I expect the plastic layer to dampen the vibration) but an experienced ear would be needed.

Adult toy?

That is a nice looking touring car.

It sounds like you have turned it far enough to release the pins (it's a bayonet-style mount) The rim is actually a 2 piece assembly; the outer, nickel plated part and an inner, part soldered to the inside of the outer rim. The inner part can rust since it isn't nickel plated which can make it much more difficult to get things apart. They were rusted pretty badly on mine. I had to carefully pry around the circumference to get them apart.

Let us know how it goes.

Hi Art, first thing is the ignition should be retarded, not advanced, when starting. When things are properly set up, you should be able to push the choke all of the way in when the engine warms up. It could be a vacuum leak is causing a lean condition and having the choke partially out makes up for it. I don't know if you are familiar with the carb but there is a possibility that the rack & pinion were not assembled correctly. I've attached some reference material showing cross sections of the carb. The choke cable is connected to the bell crank and on the bell crank pivot shaft is a small pinion gear that engages a toothed rack. Pulling out the choke rotates the bell crank and causes the pinion gear to move the rack, which is attached to the fuel metering pin. So, the tapered metering pin moves down as the choke is pulled out further (bell crank rotates CW). The pin goes through a hole, called the fuel metering jet. Because of the taper, the fuel flow area between the hole and pin changes depending on pin position. As the pin moves down, the opening between the hole and pin (annulus) increases, allowing a richer fuel/air mixture. When assembling the carb, the relative position of the rack & pinion is important since it sets the metering pin position for driving (engine warm). If the rack was not fully up and bell crank in position shown in 2nd attachment, the needle position could be way off. I would take a close look here and I would also be sure and check static timing if you removed the distributor during the engine work. The 3rd article I attached goes through the theory and adjustment of the carb. Good luck!

Wow! It held the weight of all that for 4 days... Strong stuff! Maybe try some heat? Propane torch around perimeter of head?

Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Mine was rusted like that but I was lucky enough to get a decent pair (upper & lower) from Myers.

Some form of dynomomater must have existed back then. The Ford Model T is usually quoted as having 20 hp (from 177 c.i.). Would the 36 c.i. make the difference between 20 and 35 hp? I suspect not but I'm not sure if compression ratios were similar. They're both L-heads and have similar induction. Maybe the advance curve on the Dodge?

These are official Toyota (paper) manuals. In basically un-used shape. Only $20 for the set plus (your choice) shipping.

Ha ha! I like that one...

These cars were built during prohibition... Could be an owner-mod secret access panel for hiding hooch.

Outstanding!

Watching this video closely, It also appears the distributor drive end slot and drive gear slot are more/less aligned. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8y0gjGofwU

We learn from our mistakes and confession is good for the soul... I did look around the shop to see if I still had the old shaft lying around but I think I machined some rivets from it. I think we can take some educated guesses though. The picture here shows the water pump before I touched it. The clean, un-corroded portion of the shaft must be where it was exposed to oil in the gear drive. The heavily corroded portion must be inside the water pump (rust from water and galvanic action from contact with bronze impeller). If correct, this would mean the right end of the shaft in my original photo was the aft end (I flipped it and re-pasted it here). This suggests that the gear drive slot and the end slot (where rubber coupler goes) should be aligned, although when I look closely there does appear to be some offset between the two... maybe 20 degrees? It's a shame I didn't have that photo in focus. I can't explain why they would have bothered to put the slot in for the fan drive out of alignment with the gear drive though. The moral of the story? You can never take enough photos of tear downs.

Hi Tony, The shaft I purchased from Romar had them all in line. Sorry I don't have a photo of the new one here is a (poor) photo of the old one. This is from my '25 which has the combined starter/generator and it appears to show 3 woodruff key slots in-line. The drive gear slot had wallowed out a bit. Hope this helps.