MikeC5

As for the brakes, it may be that the external contracting band (that has the brake lining material) is insufficiently round and so it can be adjusted close to the drum without excessive rub. If the internal (parking brake) brakes don't work, look closely for signs of an oil leak from the end of the axle. If the internal brake shoes are contaminated with gear oil, they won't be very effective.

I don't know guys..... I've been running my '25 without that crossover pipe and have never noticed white smoke or adverse effects on the eyes. I would associate white smoke with a head gasket leak or a crack in head or block (coolant entering the combustion chamber). That might also explain the liquid you found in the intake. Have you ever compression tested or leak down tested the cylinders?

I think I had the SG disconnected completely and just ran connections from a battery sitting on the floor to the coil.

That is a great idea! I have an impact screwdriver but this thing allows some finesse in getting tough ones out.

BYOW....

Some info in this thread with battery box dimensions on my '25, if it helps. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/251012-60-yr-barn-find-help-needed/page/2/

That battery does look old! If someone was so inclined, I would think you could figure out a way to neatly cut the top off so the remaining lead/stuff could be removed and then put a smaller modern battery in there with appropriate connections to the original terminals. I think Myers has repro battery box lids available.

An interesting collection there...

I used the lining mentioned in this thread and have been happy with it. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/201925-doing-brake-linings-on-a-25/#comment-1026998

That was a good set of videos. He really slows things down so you can understand each step. I wish I had seen that before I got the final top piece sewn together...

That's great! I have a coil like that sitting in the open hole where the original coil lived. It has been working fine. I wish the repro coils weren't so expensive.

RIP Graham. I enjoyed your informative posts.

Sure does!

I use the old German specification: guttentite.

I would go back to basics and double check things like the static timing, points adjustment and wiring connections. Even if the generator won't charge, the car should be able to run on a fully charged battery for quite a while (without headlights on). If everything seems to be in order, I would then start taking a closer look at the carb. Also, what do the plugs look like?

How about this one? Seems like a great deal to me.. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/340842-52-stude-commander-starlight-cp-lowered-price/

This.

My Starter/Generator had bad field windings and behaved similar to yours. When the SG is working properly, it should show maximum charge at idle and decrease as rpm goes up. Here is a wiring diagram that shows how it should be hooked up. I would assume for a '26, it would be the 8100-A switch.

I thought you said it had a coil and relay contacts. Did they leave the relay in place and install a small diode? It any case, if the contacts are really bad, it shouldn't be too hard to source another starter switch. Myers Early Dodge would probably have one http://www.myersearlydodge.com/catalog.htm

If you suspect the coil isn't working or not working properly, there is the option of dispensing with the coil/relay all together by using a diode instead. There are some threads on the forum that talk about it. I did it on my '25 and it was pretty easy and not very expensive.

Hi Hugh, Very interesting how this was done on the Buick. I think it's a bit more elegant than the flap that hangs down over the top of the windshield frame. As long as the bends are 2 dimensional, it shouldn't be too difficult. Are you going to find a shop with a roller and brake to make or make up something in wood to form it?

You'll need to remove the starter foot switch box from the floorboard. This involves disconnecting the wires on the back side of it and removing the two bolts that hold it to the floorboard. Once removed, you can takes the screws out that hold the switch together, open the switch box to reveal the cut out relay. Do you have the Mechanics Book of Information for the car?

Pulling the choke out a bit to richen it may indicate a vacuum leak causing it to run too lean. Have you ever had the carb apart to verify the dashpot is able to move up and down? My distributor rotor has a similar amount of backlash that I suspect is normal.

Hi Hugh, That's a good diagram of the set up and is essentially what I've got with the exception of the inner curtain going to the forward side of rear bow and the canvas wraps around to cover the wood window frame with the frame I have. I first attached the support straps to the wood frame, rough cut the canvas rear curtain and then marked the window location (making sure I had extra material to allow centering it when attaching the rear curtain assembly to car). I then cut the window opening, attached canvas rear curtain to window frame (a little contact cement and then staples on the inner rabbet where window is inserted). Next the glass went in and then the inner (bowdrill) curtain attached and inner window trim. It was quite tricky to get this whole rear curtain assembly onto the car. I found getting the inner curtain correctly adjusted to minimize wrinkles while at the same time, getting the support straps correctly positioned and the canvas in position to be nigh well impossible, thus my decision to attach the inner curtain on the forward side of the rear bow (since it could then wait until the canvas and support straps were in position and stapled).

I'll have to search that out. Thanks!