MikeC5

ply33, that does make sense but I am sure the pre-1926 Dodge Brothers cars were not equipped with shocks from the factory. The springs I'm re-painting had most definitely been lacking lubrication for a good part of their existence based on the wear patterns I see. I understand these areas, near the ends of the leaves, are somewhat thinner than they were originally. However, being near the ends of the spring (rather than near the axle loading point), I think the bending stress is much lower near the ends. In order to prevent spring bind in these wear pockets, I have ground down the wear ridge formed so the sliding leaf above (or below) will not 'bottom out' in the wear ridge. I have also filed a small radius on the ends of the springs to avoid this from happening. As for lubrication, there is no doubt it will slow this wear process down but, as you say, it will change the coefficient of friction between the leaves which may or may not have a detrimental affect on damping/handling. If I find this negatively impacts either, I always have the option of taking the springs back off and cleaning off the oil...

Thanks Tom. I did miss that in the MIM. Oil it is.

Yea that huge header tank should be a giveaway.

If you can get a decent photo, someone here can probably tell if it's an original rad.

Thanks all. Hugh, I'm leaning towards no lube as the Buick appears to be similar in size/weight to the DB. I will be interested to hear how the Snubbers affect the handling. Surprisingly, the DB "Mechanic's Instruction Manual" is mute on the subject of spring lube.

That is the question... I'm refurbishing the leaf springs on my '25 Dodge Brothers touring car, which has no shock absorbers and I'm wondering what the big dollar restoration shops do as far as lubricating the leaves on reassembly. I've seen arguments that they should not be lubricated since the friction between the leaves provides the damping you need without shocks. I think without lube the paint on the leaves will act as a lubricant for a short time before it's back to metal on metal. Experience/Opinions?

I would get the radiator checked for blockage (internal). Is the radiator original to the car? If so, you might compare specs (area, number of rows tubes, etc.) with what would be found in an '81 Buick. Maybe even a good original rad isn't up to the task. Beautiful car. It's too bad the Stude guts were thrown out as parts are not that difficult to come by (from what I've heard). The non-original engine trans may hurt value too.

Some info in this thread https://forums.aaca.org/topic/319822-1924-dodge-choke-set-up/?tab=comments#comment-1820101

Interesting. I hope you are able to source a good block without too much trouble.

This is great stuff! Thanks for sharing Terry. What 3D modeling software are you using?

Wow that's bad luck. You said it was running fine other than the vibration? No telling what surprises lurk under the hood of mine! I better not look.... Did you use magnaflux, penetrant, or just find these with the naked eye?

Very nice looking car. Good trade!

I've read somewhere on this forum that some have had success with that kind of leak using J.B. Weld or similar since the temperature isn't too extreme, nor is there much (if any) pressure behind the leak. Maybe even high temp RTV would work if you clean and rough up the surface a bit surrounding the leak.

It's great to see it fire up after a long slumber. Where was the block weeping?

Thanks Tom. I was contacted by a forum member here in CT who has a pair of 9 leafs that I'm going to look at tomorrow. I'm hoping to avoid shipping charges on these heavy buggers.

After closer inspection I find that the sagging side spring is a 9 leaf, as the vintage spring info for 24 -27 Dodge says it should be. The top leave is about .270 thick while the other 8 leaves are around .21" thick (3 of which are cracked). The other spring has only 8 leaves which are somewhat thicker (overall total thickness is only around 0.060" greater on 8 leave spring, other leaves about 0.25"). The top leave on the 8 leave spring is only about 0.025" thicker than the 9 leave leave So aside from requesting a quote from Eaton for new ones, I'm not sure what I'll do. I could have the 9 leave spring rebuilt to match the 8 leave but I do not need a rougher ride, that's for sure. I'm guessing with all else equal an 8 leave spring with thicker leaves will be stiffer than a 9 leave with thinner leaves.

I got them removed today. I put jack stands behind the rear spring perch and the job wasn't too difficult. Taking a closer look at the driver side spring after a little cleaning shows 3 cracked leaves; one of them in 2 places. No wonder it was sagging...

Gentlemen, thanks for the tips.

Hi Bill, that's a good idea, thanks! My left front spring noticeably sags so I'm going to see if I can get them repaired. Anyone try Ferrara Spring works in Springfield, Mass.? (appropriate place for them...)

Has anyone removed their front leaf springs (on a complete car)? I don't have much choice but in supporting the frame on each side just behind the rear spring perches. The frame is angled a bit on the bottom in that area so I was thinking I might support it further back where it flattens out. Would I then have too much weight cantilevered forward of the supports?

This is my first time ever doing something like this. It may not come out perfect but I will learn from it. I made it a little bit harder by not spending the money on the more expensive top material that has the black grain on outside and tan color on inside (so inside of car is not like a cave). Instead I bought a less expensive top material and am using a separate inside layer of tan bowdrill fabric. I thought maybe a could use spray contact cement to glue it to the top material but the glue soaks through the bowdrill and leaves uneven staining (on test strips). David Coco says some cars were done like this back in the day (but not DBs).

I'm using a Singer 111W155. It's a beast of 1957 vintage but works well.

I used these guys and was happy with the job they did on my radiator shell. https://www.newenglandchrome.com/

That makes sense Walt. I forgot about carb heat on small aircraft.

Wouldn't condensation on the intake singlefold (it's not a manifold) be more an indicator of water vapor in the air? The fuel has been introduced to the air at this point and I would think some cooling effect is normal. I didn't think the condensation was unusual and mine seem to run fine (although I don't have anything to compare it to).