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Thank You. I will give you a call Art

To Bob and Mike Thank you for your helpful comments Art

Jon Thank you for your comments. You nailed the problem.Compression was way off in 2 an 3 cylinders. Removed head (was leaking a little anti freeze at head gasket) and found both exhaust valves were sticking. Art

My Detroit lubricator carburetor has been sent out twice to two different shops for a complete rebuild and still does not work properly. It runs too lean and the lean condition popping is present. Increasing choke makes no difference. The car can not be driven My experience with popping carburetors on Doges with Vacuum tanks is that if the engine is not immediately shut down, the carburetor will back fire into the vacuum tank and cause a major engine compartment fire (this happened to my 1924 Dodge) Since their is no fuel adjustment other than idle mixture i can not make the mixture richer. I have dumped over$400 into it and have spent about 8 hours on it with my friend who is a retired mechanic 1) The car has been timed per Dodge Manual and does start up. It will not idle and will not run unless the accelerator is continually pump. 2) When running using the above technique , it will not keep running regardless of hand throttle control 3) The car once ran well but was not used for several year do to family issues Has anyone used the Dayton up draft carburetor where there is fuel adjustment I do not care if I am not using an original carburetor. I want a car that runs and run safely Art Lee Dodge Brothers Club Member

Thanks. Patrick is actually doing the machine work and Jim

I am rebuilding the motor on my1925 10 C and after having the cylinders bead blasted, tow of the units have cracks. Does anyone have or know of someone who has two good cylinders Thanks Art Lee

I have1925 Willy's 93 Overland (6 cylinder) with a pot metal Tillotson SE-4A carburetor. The pot metal is shot. Looking for someone who has owned such a car and has experience on what replacement carburetor will work on this car. Thank You Art

Don Sommers can make them. Your looking at$500 -$1000 https://americanarrowcorp.com/products/hood-ornaments/

Thanks Art

Thank you both for the information. I do have the spark retarded on start up and then advanced once it is running. I had never checked the timing before the fire. I did not remove the distributor but did find timing was way off using the static timing procedure in the manual (#4 exhaust valve) Have not got a chance to load test the car but it ran smooth in the sweet spot settings as i described above. I will check for the float level and then check vacuum leaks between the carb and block before working with the rack and pinion set up. Thank you for the help. I now understand how the carb works and thanks for the expanation Art

My 1925 10C Demi muffler is corroded out. The 2" front pipe is good, the back 1.5" pipe is rough. Is the most practical solution is to get a modern 2 inch inlet/outlet straight muffler, cut out the flanges, use modern connectors/hangers and have a muffler shop bend the now 2 inch tail pipe . The car is a driver Thanks Art Lee

If you join the Franklin Club you can get access to the drawings and parts catalog that will certainly help you. The pictures indicate is is probably a 10B or 10C. Looking at the the drawings and parts may help you make a decision which will be best for you Art Lee

Recovering from engine fire where back firing ignited the vacuum tank causing a full engine fire. It took 2 - 10 lb ABC extinguishers which saved car from being a total loss Ignition system gone though with. Cap rotor (with brush) are OK. The points and timing are set per manual Carburetor rebuilt professionally. Understand their is only one adjusting point and the book says to set this adjustment when hand spark control is on retard The choke needs to be pulled out fully to start. As engine warms up and choke pushed, the engine starts to make a poping sound when pushed in more than 2/3 of full travel. The engine pops when engine is throttled up when either the choke is pulled out over 50% of full travel and when is pushed in 2/3 or more of full travel . In that sweet spot there is no engine poping. The spark control is at advanced during this operation. My guess the above poping is from too lean or to rich mixture Question: Do I just leave it in that sweet spot, or am I missing something. Not to be rude, but I am only looking for answers from Dodge Brothers members who have personal hands on experience working on their Dodges Art

Still have not located a gas cap. Does anyone know what the thread is. I is not a tapped 2 inch NPT

Lost my series 10 gas cap. Same cap was used for the 9 and 11series Does anyone have one or know some place that sells them. Tried the usual places such as ebay, hemming with no luck. Model A FORD (28-29) has a similar cap but is too large (would need to be bushed out and threaded) Thanks Art Lee