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Don Sommers can make them. Your looking at$500 -$1000 https://americanarrowcorp.com/products/hood-ornaments/

Thanks Art

Thank you both for the information. I do have the spark retarded on start up and then advanced once it is running. I had never checked the timing before the fire. I did not remove the distributor but did find timing was way off using the static timing procedure in the manual (#4 exhaust valve) Have not got a chance to load test the car but it ran smooth in the sweet spot settings as i described above. I will check for the float level and then check vacuum leaks between the carb and block before working with the rack and pinion set up. Thank you for the help. I now understand how the carb works and thanks for the expanation Art

My 1925 10C Demi muffler is corroded out. The 2" front pipe is good, the back 1.5" pipe is rough. Is the most practical solution is to get a modern 2 inch inlet/outlet straight muffler, cut out the flanges, use modern connectors/hangers and have a muffler shop bend the now 2 inch tail pipe . The car is a driver Thanks Art Lee

If you join the Franklin Club you can get access to the drawings and parts catalog that will certainly help you. The pictures indicate is is probably a 10B or 10C. Looking at the the drawings and parts may help you make a decision which will be best for you Art Lee

Recovering from engine fire where back firing ignited the vacuum tank causing a full engine fire. It took 2 - 10 lb ABC extinguishers which saved car from being a total loss Ignition system gone though with. Cap rotor (with brush) are OK. The points and timing are set per manual Carburetor rebuilt professionally. Understand their is only one adjusting point and the book says to set this adjustment when hand spark control is on retard The choke needs to be pulled out fully to start. As engine warms up and choke pushed, the engine starts to make a poping sound when pushed in more than 2/3 of full travel. The engine pops when engine is throttled up when either the choke is pulled out over 50% of full travel and when is pushed in 2/3 or more of full travel . In that sweet spot there is no engine poping. The spark control is at advanced during this operation. My guess the above poping is from too lean or to rich mixture Question: Do I just leave it in that sweet spot, or am I missing something. Not to be rude, but I am only looking for answers from Dodge Brothers members who have personal hands on experience working on their Dodges Art

Still have not located a gas cap. Does anyone know what the thread is. I is not a tapped 2 inch NPT

Lost my series 10 gas cap. Same cap was used for the 9 and 11series Does anyone have one or know some place that sells them. Tried the usual places such as ebay, hemming with no luck. Model A FORD (28-29) has a similar cap but is too large (would need to be bushed out and threaded) Thanks Art Lee

Hi Kevin I have a 1921 Cole Aero Eight Touring Car in running condition. I am located in NJ. One of my Franklin club members who posted was talking about me Art

I trying to get my Series 151 with Warner 3 speed alignment issues corrected I have Franklin bulletin #600 dated 2/27/1931 The terminology is giving me a problem when working with transmission shops. They are totally baffled with the terms used bulletin 600 and the Franklin parts Is the "clutch housing: term used in the bulletin mean the same as modern term "bell housing: Is the "flywheel guard term" in the bulletin the same as the access plate on the top of the bell housing Does Franklin tool "clutch aligning bar drawing 35842" insert into clutch thrust bearing sleeve Franklin part R-2541. I have a machinist who can make the clutch aligning bar if necessary. Are the screw drivers as described in bulletin #600 used to guide in the clutch tool into the clutch assembly (as shown in clutch parts picture)in parts book When the clutch bar is fully inserted, I presume the clutch is now aligned Is the next step to use a micrometer on the end of the clutch tool and then make sure it is centered in the rear bell housing end. It appears that there are two alignment holes for the alignment pins that are in approx.. the 10:30 and 1:30 position (see attached bell housing picture , it is an extra I have) If the align dowels do not align, can offset dowel pins be used (have access to them). Is it correct to presume with the clutch aligned, there are not forward or aft adjustments to the bell housing when fits flat against the engine block Are there other measurements I need to be concerned with Suggestion from person who have actually done this procedure are greatly appreciated. By my knowing the technology to explain to an experienced mechanic, I know teh problem will be solved just as it was with previous technology help from club members on my Series 9 which I brought to this years Trek Thank You Art Lee

Thanks for the suggestions Art

I am changing the badly deteriorated ignition wires. Having a hard time with snaking the wires through the conduit which is in place, I sprayed the inside with silcon spray hoping it would help.I got the wire to go in about 6 inches before it completely stoped. Between the conduit and sheet metal shroud there are 6 cylinder shaped pieces (attached to conduit) that look to be heat protection for the wires. There seems to be very deteriorated grommets between the top f the cylinder and the shroud where the old wires snaked through The parts manual shows the conduit, cylinder shaped piece, grommets and wires as one part # so obviously string new wires was a tough job Should the conduit be removed so there is enough of an opening to push the wire or run a snake. I presume the grommet remnant should be removed. Any help from someone who has done this will be greatly appreciated Art Lee

Tom thaks so much. What you described worked perfectly. It now has about 1/2 inch of free play and shifts as it should. Plan on bringing the series 9b to the Trek. Hope to see you there Art Lee

Tom I have zero free play. Clutch grabs (not completely) at approximately. 1/2" from top. Clutch linkage is set at mid point. Followed clutch adjusting procedure in manual and it did not make a difference (tried loosing and tightening). There were spacer washers placed on the inside of old clutch cover where the bolts go through. The old clutch cover had a chunk of the casting missing plus a crack over the thrust bearing that was very apparent when the clutch pedal was pushed down). The drawings do no show these washers and they were not put back Art

I have my 1922 B series 9 clutch put back together with new through out bearings and a replacement clutch plate. Adjusted clutch per manual and the clutch barely engages when the pedal is at the top 1/2" to 1/4: of pedal travel. There is pressure on the clutch pedal for the entire length of travel .Car will move in first and reverse only on flat terrain, slips in second. I suspect the two fiber friction rings labeled B and D on figure 19 of the Series 9 instruction book may be too far worn. Would like a second opinion on my diagnosis If my diagnosis is correct, where can I get these fiber rings made up Hoping to have this car at the Trek Thank you Art Lee