NZStuart

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About NZStuart

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  1. thanks so what I have is along the lines of the standard. Coin inside button would contact insulated button I just need to tidy it up a bit.
  2. I'm have a sudden burst of energy to get my 1927 Dodge Touring roadworthly. The horn button has been unreliable and I've pulled things apart but someone has been there before and I think I'm missing some pieces. Button is in centre of steering wheel. Has anyone pulled one of theses apart and has any idea as to what should be there? I have the button that someone has inserted a coin into presumably to bridge contact when pressed and the wire coming up centre of columns has a lot of insulation tape around a copper stud and it appears that when to push button coin contacts end of copper stud but its pretty hit and miss so I'm sure it wasn't built that way. Any photos, drawings or advice appreciated. Stuart
  3. I've acquired myself a vacuum tank but its missing the bracket that mounts it on top of the engine. Anyone got one for sale or failing that so good photos so I could fabricate one. I have a USA address for shipping to. Stuart
  4. I'm also after set for a 1927 Dodge Touring with Australian made body. Stuart
  5. I've checked out Ebay there's some tanks there for USD $200 which turns into $400 NZD (Average wage on New Zealand is $928/week) which is fairly expensive. I could probably suck it up if I could guarantee tank is in good working condition but what really hurts is selling charging another USD 150-200 Freight to get it here.
  6. Thanks will look at getting a pressure regulator but ideally at some point I'd like to refit a vacuum tank but hard to find a unit.
  7. At some stage the previous owner has fitted an electric fuel pump to the Dodge. While I'm always on the lookout for an original vacuum tank I'm not too hopeful. In the mean time I'm stuck with a Aitex E8011 pump. Seems to work ok but never shuts off. Runs at 5-8psi and there is an alternate model that runs at 2-4 PSI. Question I have should I replace pump with lower pressure unit or add a pressure regulator? I'm concerned it might be overwhelming needle valve in Carb. No obvious signs of fuel overflow but as I said pump doesn't seem to shutoff leave ignition on for 30 seconds and it will pump all the time. Location could also be an issue with manufacture recommending mount close to tank and pushing fuel through, currently pump is mounted in engine bay close to carb so effectively sucks fuel length of the car.
  8. That makes sense but it will make my steering wheel issue even worse so it does look like I'll have to turn 3/8 inch from inside of wheel (1/4 to allow for bush and an extra 1/8 to give nut more purchase on the steering shaft. Not sure why wheel doesn't fit unless its from a different vehicle, its certainly looks like the original. Next Job is rear shackles on front spring, got them off (Passenger side top at bit of a pain to remove) and pins look ok but shackles themselves are worn. Will investigate building them up and redrilling or bushing. Stuart
  9. Thanks Ron most helpful... Got the tube out and then found the nut holding the steering wheel had fallen off... was just sitting inside the housing so thats one issue I'm glad to fix. Next issue however is there doesn't seem to be any bushing inside steering shaft to centre it, should there be? And then I think reason nut fell off in the first place its only just getting purchase on the steering shaft. Given its importance more is better. It almost looks like I might have to get wheel hud turned out slightly so it sits deeper on the shaft. Thanks in advance for your help its most appreciated. Stuart
  10. Thanks I suspected as much but at this point tubes aren't the issue its the Aluminium cover that has the pins in it. It seems to be threaded or pressed on but I don't want to apply too much force until I know. it does look like it can be removed while the tubes are still fitted. I have removed connections at the bottom so can pull up a couple of inches so the slot in cover will go over tubes. Stuart
  11. I need to remove this next bit to get to nut that holds on steering wheel. Stuart
  12. I took my car a 1927 Dodge Tourer for a compliance check which is required in New Zealand before I can put it back on the road. Was reasonably happy with list I've got to fix with no major items (I hope) King Pins need to be shimmed for too much vertical movement, rear shackles on front springs worn, Oil Leak RHR Axle, needs tyre and horn to work (was working when I left home and worked fine afterwards) and finally the reason I'm removing steering wheel top bush needs to be replaced. I've got it this far but can't get any further, the two pins are slotted so I assume they should screw out but they just spin. Any ideas Stuart
  13. I took my car a 1927 Dodge Tourer for a compliance check which is required in New Zealand before I can put it back on the road. Was reasonably happy with list I've got to fix with no major items (I hope) King Pins need to be shimmed for too much vertical movement, rear shackles on front springs worn, Oil Leak RHR Axle, needs tyre and horn to work (was working when I left home and worked fine afterwards) and finally the reason I'm removing steering wheel top bush needs to be replaced. I've got it this far but can't get any further, the two pins are slotted so I assume they should screw out but they just spin. Any ideas? Stuart