jdome

I went to the Luray meet. 6 hr drive to get there and 6 hrs back and didn't buy anything. But that's OK. I just needed to be there amongst the rust & dust & brass and it was well worth it. I intend to go again next year and maybe get a spot to sell some stuff.

You had me excited for a minute so I googled it. Auburn, CA. not Auburn, IN.

T-birds have a serious problem of rust out underneath the body and chassis, especially around the body mount areas. The way that car has been sitting on the ground with plant growth through it, you can bet the body has rusted off the frame and the frame is worthless too. It doesn't have the look of a burnt car to me. Tire not melted and missing bumper & continental kit. Looks to me as if it was stripped for painting and then left outside. Do you have missing parts? I would like to see the brush removed and better pictures of the front, engine bay & interior just for curiosity. It is possible that an Ebay or BAT type auction might bring more money but I don't think enough money to make it worth the hassle. Take the $1000 as is where is.

Gasoline is susceptible to static charge. and as a result, if the static charge builds high enough, it may cause the usual static spark when it discharges. The static can charge up from the filling process or containers sliding around on trunk lining/carpet or plastic pick up bed liners. It doesn't matter if the container is "approved" plastic or metal cans. You should ALWAYS: - use approved containers, mostly for the proper venting. - fill container on ground/concrete outside of vehicle, never on car flooring material or pickup bed liner. - the pump nozzle is grounded to ground off static charge, insert nozzle inside container and always hold the nozzle against filler neck, even with plastic container. - tie the cans in place so they don't slide around on flooring materials or truck bed to prevent static build up.

All three are 41's based on the GM B body the blue one is chevy but I think the green one is Pontiac with the fender strips. Maybe?

Whoa. Hold on to your panties. I must not have been clear. I was NOT referring to the meters themselves but the plan to install smart meter systems so the utility could ration electric to prevent blackouts. CA still has blackouts and brown outs. Just my observation. 5G has not been implemented yet. 4G implementation was completed in the US about the end of 2019. COVID would be more associated with the timing of 4G. Why ??? Do you know something ????

A true "Smart Meter" includes a smart panel as well. Because all of the high energy appliances: heater, AC, hot water, and other 220 appliances like stove, dryer and your EV charger are all on dedicated circuits, your utility can remotely interrogate these devices individually. They can turn them off or throttle thermostats in order to prevent blackouts when generation is limited, if the wind stops blowing or sun goes down. CA has been operating with smart meter systems for several years. Not working well for them. As smart metering will become standardized around the country and one way to force owners of older homes to install SM's is require them to upgrade the home to code and add things SM's & GFI's when you pull a permit to add a 220 circuit to your garage. That can turn a $500 job into $5,000 real quick.

Ohio already charges a surcharge to register electrics. Ohio charges $100 additional per year for a pure hybrid and anything that plugs into the wall pays $200. Thats just to replace Ohio's gas tax of $.385 per gal. Its been in effect here for at least 3 years. An ICE car that gets 25 MPG can drive almost 13,000 miles per year before it pays $200 Ohio gas tax. At 30 MPG it equals over 16,000 miles.

Maybe that's all you get for $400 is a wheel & tire. I don't see anything else attached to it.

Since the CCCA has included some "Classic Brands" down to 1915 maybe its time to include some select 50's Classics like the Caribbean. Their may be other Packards to consider such as Panther ? Certainly include 53 Eldo as well as 57 & 58 Brougham. I'm not sure I would consider the Skylark & Fiesta as Classic but worth debate. The 50's Ghia (NOT the VW Karmann variety). Since they already include the immediate post war Lincoln Continental why not the Mark II. The 50's Imperials are also worth consideration too. These are all handcrafted custom or semi-custom bodied luxury cars with the best engines available at their time. I can't think of anything built in the 60's that are worthy of "Classic Status". It seems that car clubs want to expand membership by expanding car classes. I would rather see the CCCA extend into a very select group of 50's Classics than open a hot rod class of modified Classics and encourage more of that nonsense. The 53 Skylark is one of many cars on my bucket list but the 54 just does not appeal to me.

I'm sure they are. I'd like to find one some day.

I used to check ebay daily, mostly to search for early brass Buick & Cadillac parts. I used to use the * as a wild card and type: Cadillac 191*. That would bring up Cadillac cars & parts from 1910 thru 1919. There used to be a lot of good parts as well as a few cars that would pop up and no junk. I only had to check "NEW LISTINGS" for a few good items with no multiple listings of the same radiator fans. You can't do a simple search like that today. I now go weeks or months without going on Ebay. I have bought and sold a few cars and lots of parts on Ebay since 2001, but it is just more of a nuisance now. I occasionally find something to buy but I haven't listed anything for sale for several years. Too much trouble for the occasional seller. Its too bad that Ebay has moved so far from its original intent to be the "garage sale" site for the individual. I think they saw the growth explosion of the Amazon model and decided to transform into another Amazon and have done their best to push out the occasional garage seller in favor of bulk sellers and full time businesses.

I SEE THE PROBLEM. PISTON .

I enjoy car spotting in movies made in the 30's , 40's 50's and even 60's that take place at the time they were made, rather than modern movies staged in the past. Last night I watched a movie on the Turner Ch. with Doris Day and James Garner. Don't remember the title but must have been filmed about 58 because 58 seemed to be the latest car I recognized. Garner and Day drove a 58 chevy convertible and a 57 T-Bird. There were lots of other 50's cars in the movie. The B&W movies filmed in the 30's staged in the NY City area show a lot of Classic limos. Below is a link to a short B&W film made about 1952 but takes place earlier and the "star" of the movie is a 1903 Ford, if you are into the very early cars, that has a prominent part at the beginning, end and several places throughout. This is a movie that you might want to share with your grandkids. I believe it is the original adaptation of the book "Ransom of Red Chief".

You have a worthy project there. I would clean up the exterior & interior but I would not do much to "restore" it. These days, people have a lot of respect for the kind of original patina your car appears to have. The first thing I would do is find an owners manual with wiring diagrams. A reprint would be fine. Ebay might be a good source or the AACA library. You may even find diagrams with on line searching. There are obviously some wiring & electrical issues and maybe some missing parts. I don't have any hands on experience with this era of electric cars but I make my living in electronics and I have fooled with a vintage golf cart and have a couple 1970's GE Electrac Lawn tractors. Similar technology. If I remember correct, Your Baker should have eight - 6 volt batteries in series (or individual cells) for a total of 48 volts. Looks like there are about eight or more voltage step resistors. I don't think the resisters & relay board are in the proper location. That trunk area is where the batteries go. Someone has done some rewiring with about #8 or #6 ga. wire and it should probably be heavier 0 or 00 battery cable gauge. Looks like some burnt wiring as a result of using too small gauge. So someone may have had it running at one time until the wires or relays burned up. I also think there are some relays missing and some relays appear to be replaced with modern Ford/general purpose type starter relays which are only good for momentary starts. The coil windings may burn up if they are engaged for more than a few minutes at a time. Do you have the original parts for the car? Those old originals are repairable/rebuild able. I see correct original electrical parts for Bakers floating around and at major swap meets like Hershey. There are good modern replacement relays available if you want to go that route. These early electrics are really simple and straight forward for someone with good basic electrical experience if you can provide proper diagrams.

I attended the Chickasha meet and was glad I did. I needed to attend a good prewar meet and this certainly was. I haven't been to a car event since Hershey, Oct 2019. I was getting the DT's from withdrawal. Only about half the spaces were full with perhaps about half attendees so there were some social distancing by default. Half the venders were in 2 large buildings and half outdoors. About half the people wore masks and half did not. That is fine and the way it should be. Most of the people I talked to without masks had their shots &/or recovered from Covid like myself. No one was hassled for their decision. I am hoping that this will be the model for Hershey this year. My GPS mapping indicated about 17 hrs, 10 minutes of driving time but I think I beat that mark, I didn't time myself. Traffic was relatively light. The swap meet was mostly Ford model T & A but there were other brass era parts there. I was looking for 1903 -41 Cadillac parts and found some parts for my 03 & 41 and some teens as well. There were other early parts of various makes including an interesting 3-cylinder, air cooled Chase truck project that I think I once owned for about 2 days. I won it off ebay and had second thoughts about traveling cross country to pick up buckets & boxes of parts so I contacted the seller & second highest bidder and let him buy it instead. That was about 17 years ago when ebay allowed communication between bidders. I hope next year it will be full of venders and better attended. I plan to go next year. These pre war and brass events need to be supported.

Traffic running smooth with no traffic lights. I would like to see a more recent film of this same route.

I have about 20 of these reproduced "manufactured by" patent plates for "WHITLOCK COIL PIPE CO." Patent dates are Jan 10, 1905 and March 21, 1905. They are 7/8 inch X 2-1/2 inch. Brass. These were attached to early brass radiators in the 1905 to 1910 era manufactured for Cadillac, Buick and similar makes of cars that used Whitlock's tube & fin radiators and early conventional style such as the radiator in OP. These are for sale at $27.oo each including postage to US and Canada. I will mail outside US for additional $4.oo postage. Will accept PayPal or check (with time to clear). send PM for more info

What species is it? Fire Bird, T-Bird, Falcon, Road Runner, Black Hawk, Studebaker Hawk, Golden Hawk, or Lark, Skylark, Eagle.

Is it my imagination or my computer screen but is this car 2 shades of red ?

I saw an interview of Tiger's caddy on the news. He said he had been telling Tiger for years that he needed to get a new driver.

I think I am one of the few people that appreciates the look & drive of the 34/35 Cadillac. I have a 35 V12 limo that I really love to drive even though it is big, heavy & lumbering. 34 is first year for independent coil spring suspension and they handle & ride much better than the earlier cars. They are rare due to being the lowest production years of the depression. In todays market, about $40,000 is a good price for a more popular early 30's V8 coupe. It looks like a well done car but I can only bring up about 10 pics of exterior and none of interior, underside or engine. I would not pick yellow but it looks good on this car and I have to commend whoever restored the car for painting it a mono color, as it should be. I seem to see 34/35's with fenders & hood vents painted a different color than the body. YUK !

There is a lot of good information to be found on the internet. That's my philosophy : If it doesn't fit - get a bigger hammer.

It depends on the make. You will play hxxx finding someone to rebuild a Remy used on GM makes and a few others. Neither of the above mentioned rebuilders will service Remy.

Your "friend" might think he is wired for 220 but he has a short.