jdome

At the end of each shift rod (link) is a rubber bushing. It is like a grommet with a inner metal sleeve. Your rubber bushings are rotted and need to be replaced.

I agree with Dobbin. The mass of the chassis, wheels, bumper & hood look more like US truck power of the 30's. Any number of commercial body makers (US or European) could have made the bus body on US chassis. I tried to blow up the photo for better detail but it is too dark & blurry. I can make out what appears to be a 2 or 3 inch wide chrome band on the upper side of the hood, the length of hood, with possible block letters that would be consistent with International and a few other US manufacturers of the time. I can make out just enough blurry marks to spell "INTERNATIONAL" too. Perhaps if you can get a better scan of the old photo and try to photoshop it, you just might be able to verify my best guess.

That dozer is a rare (read expensive) pedal car but I have seen those at Hershey. I have been looking for a powered version that size. "KittyTrak" made by Lenox in 60's. I have a 5 year old grandson who is fascinated with construction machinery. He needs one to "help" his mom & dad work on the yard.

Unique method to buff the chrome.

I would look at the copper wire itself and certainly the plumbing in that house too. My father also had a new house built about the same time and about 7 years later the copper pipes began leaking. They turned black & splotchy, similar to your wires, and develop tiny pin holes. There was a problem with Chinese copper piping that was too thin walled and had impurities that caused the "copper" pipes to actually rust out.

Not that I should steal the thread but I replaced 20 - 8ft tubes in 10 fixtures with LED's. Best investment I made in my shop lighting. You can buy 4 ft LED tubes that will work with some florescent ballasts but 8ft have to rewire the fixtures and by pass the ballasts. Good idea. Apparently some of my ballasts must have been going bad. Turned off the power to wire sockets direct and a couple ballasts were too hot to touch. I don't know if they were a fire hazard but I feel safer without them now. I bought clear/day light tubes. Extremely bright. You want them at least 10 ft above the floor. You can also buy frosted tubes that produce a white/yellow glow similar to florescent. They are supposed to outlast florescent 10 to 1.

There were only 400 flat head V16's built between 38-40

O K, Thanks

Harry, would you have spring specs that go back to 1903 Cadillac?

If you have problems finding the engine # send me a PM and I can email you a diagram of the # location and a list of #'s by year so you can validate that you have an engine # in the correct year range for your car. You can also find that same info by going to the "Early Cadillac Yahoo Group" web site and you'll find various charts listed in their database. You may have to (free) register to the group to get into the database. This is a very informative and active group.

1906 is the first year Cadillac had a serial number and plate. The factory screwed the plate to the lower center rear of the body, however for some reason restorers will sometimes mount them on the dash. The "serial" number itself is not the important #. All 1-cyl Cads are referenced by the engine # which is usually stamped on the top edge of the collar at the base of the cylinder head near the water pipe "T". The engine # will also be stamped on the serial plate but the plates are often missing or relocated. The plate is about 1 x 3 inches. You can the engine # and $50 to the Cadillac archives and get a copy of the original build sheet.

What model # is the car? Cloth would be standard, leather would be optional.

Do not use anything other than NEATSFOOT OIL on a leather faced (dry) clutch. You will probably only find neatsfoot oil at a leather shop or a horse & saddle shop. Farm & Fleet type stores might have it. Motor oil may eventually turn the leather to mush and destroy it.

I was wondering about the plated material too. If you used a solid material (copper, brass or steel) you could anneal it and that might help form without cracking the corners. I would be concerned that if you tried to heat your material to anneal it, the plating might flake off.

If you are near Canton you should check out Motorcars Portfolio operated by Bob Leitky. Bob is a good guy with a long established reputation and deals with cars from 1900 to the 90's. They have about 40 or 50 cars displayed below the McKinley Hotel in downtown Canton. If you are looking for something in the 70's, 80's or 90's I would shop around. There are plenty of those cars available and it is a buyers market for those now. You don't want something that needs upholstery or rust repair. Find a good solid, non-modified car.

I no longer trust gas stablizers. I used it in a chain saw and a lawn mower and it stopped up everything with a red putty-like gel. Never again. The good thing about E10 is that Ethanol is a detergent that prevents deposits from forming. It is one of the reasons that modern cars design for E can go way more that 100,000 miles without getting all fouled up. One of the bad things about E10 is that Ethanol is a detergent... and actually defeats the purpose of mixing oil with gas in a 2 cycle engine. It washes the oil off the moving parts that the oil is supposed to coat. Being a detergent, E will break down the oil in the mixture and gel with water content. Even though "modern" 2-cycle oil is supposed to be E-resistant, it still breaks down sooner than E10 not mixed with oil.

LL-Avgas only has about 5% of the amount TEL that leaded Avgas used to have and it is scheduled to have another reduction in lead content in a couple years. The amount of lead in LL is just enough to protect valves & guides in certain aircraft engines that require it. High content lead used to boost the octane but other additives are now used to boost octane in Avgas. TEL has nothing to do with long term storage of Avgas, it is the fact that Avgas does not contain Ethanol. "Marine" gas is also E free and cheaper and easier to obtain, and lead free AND some supplies already have stabilizers added.

I suggest you go to the top right corner and type "Mcfarlan" in the advance search window. It will bring up 58 past threads on this site where McFarland was discussed of parts listed for sale. You will have to weed through the threads but you may find some leads.

It looks like a good project. Did you find the you tube video?

Google "Jewel Automobile." There are several sites with photos there including the Massillon Museum car, history brochure specs, and a You tube video of a restored car with the owner name showing his car. He is from Arkansas & said he bought the car in Phoenix.

Do you Know what year or model you have? The 06 model B and 07 model D are small 1-cyl, 2-stroke, buggies. the 08 - 09 is a longer wheel base, 4-cyl conventional car. Production ended by 1910? These were assembled cars with common mechanicals. I believe only a couple hundred +/- cars were built each year. I am from the Canton/Massillon area and know a little about the local cars. There were 2 other cars manufactured in Massillon. The Holmes is another and I can't think of the third name offhand. You might contact the Crawford museum in Cleveland. I'm not aware of any other Jewel cars. What do you intend to do with the car? I would not mind having a home town car if you don't plan to keep it.

I called Canton Classic Car and they said the Jewel I was thinking of is in of all places: The Massillon Historical Museum - Duh - I phoned Massillon and they definitely have one along with some lit & documentation. 121 Lincoln Way E. , Massillon, OH 44646. Phone: 330-833-4061. I was told to make prior arrangements with Mindy Pond or Alexandria Coon if you want close access to the car and their materials. Hope this helps.

I know there are 1 or 2 Jewel(l)s in Ohio. Either at Canton Classic Car Museum, 330-455-3603, or (president) Wm McKinley Museum, Canton, OH which has a lot of local Canton-Massillon area history or at The Crawford Auto Aviation Museum, Cleveland which has a collection of Ohio built cars. I suggest you call the Canton CC Museum, I'm sure they can help you. Also contact the AACA research library on this site for literature help.

What was Broadrick Crawford, car 54? was he a Fed or statie? I think he started the series in the early/mid 50's with a bathtub Nash and later switched to Fairlanes.

He's not her type. He's too coarse.