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Neat looking 1928 Dodge Victory 6 on Long Island NY For Sale


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Here's the ad w/phone number -

For sale is a 1928 Dodge Brothers Victory 6 Coupe in good condition. A HOBBYIST'S DREAM!
Original engine, car was running well up to 5 years ago and has been garaged since.
Headlights and the grill were re chromed.
Car is looking for a new home with an owner that would like to make it road worthy.
Owner needs to sell ASAP, will be relocating soon.
Located in Long Island.
Looking for $6450
Call or text (917) 579-3990 during business hours.

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5 hours ago, keiser31 said:

GREAT deal!

Do you recall on aaca a few years ago, there was a 29? with those nice wire wheels and that Vicky body sitting in weeds in a California back yard for sale?  Maybe a woman selling it or asking value?  I remember it as it seemed like such an attractive car to be wasting away with zero local interest.

 

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3 hours ago, F&J said:

Do you recall on aaca a few years ago, there was a 29? with those nice wire wheels and that Vicky body sitting in weeds in a California back yard for sale?  Maybe a woman selling it or asking value?  I remember it as it seemed like such an attractive car to be wasting away with zero local interest.

 

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Oh yeah....I remember that car. The headlamps were facing backwards.

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Still waiting to hear back. I always like to have a early 30's car in the collection. I never had a non GM early car but my friends who have had these early Dodges always said that they were 2 X's  the car of a Chevrolet for half the price, we will see... Is there anything that I should look for that is a common problem? for example the early Chevrolets are known for bad cylinder heads, and finding a good one is a challenge. It looks like a survivor of a typical 70's restoration

For a complete car it really does not seem like a lot of money

Edited by John348 (see edit history)
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On ‎5‎/‎31‎/‎2017 at 10:28 PM, jrbartlett said:

My father once had one of these in great original condition. He sold it to a fellow collector, who later sold it to a guy who swore that he was going to keep it original. He didn't. He hot-rodded it and completely ruined it.

We must or should change our box-like attitudes on the "ruining it " comment...IMO...If we'd rather not see any prewar go to ruin sitting in poor storage for eternity, simply due to the rapid death of  the "interest of restoring" those of the more common of unwanted prewar cars.  I define "RUIN" in a completely differing view than you.. with no hard feelings towards your view of "Ruin".

 

Please take a moment to read this quote of my earlier post above, on that exact type of car and body style...

On ‎5‎/‎29‎/‎2017 at 6:38 AM, F&J said:

Do you recall on aaca a few years ago, there was a 29? with those nice wire wheels and that Vicky body sitting in weeds in a California back yard for sale?  Maybe a woman selling it or asking value?  I remember it as it seemed like such an attractive car to be wasting away with zero local interest.

 

jrbartlett, I am a hard core, no excuses accepted, promoter of the "saving" of ANY prewar, no matter what the eventual savior does to that unwanted/neglected/dissolving auto.  I will preach my view here on AACA till I leave this earth.

 

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Edited by F&J (see edit history)
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We just hate to see what looks like a good pretty original car,  turned into something like this,  partially completed , then thrown out for sale because the "builder" realized they don't have the skill, foresight or desire to finish it into anything but a pile of parts. 

Changing to a different engine because the original is a boat anchor and a suitable replacement wasn't available without cutting everything up I wouldn't have a problem with but this,  yes. 

 

1928-dodge-rat-rod-1.jpgImage result for 1928 dodge street rod

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2 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

We just hate to see what looks like a good pretty original car,  turned into something like this,  partially completed , then thrown out for sale because the "builder" realized they don't have the skill, foresight or desire to finish it into anything but a pile of parts. 

Changing to a different engine because the original is a boat anchor and a suitable replacement wasn't available without cutting everything up I wouldn't have a problem with but this,  yes. 

 

1928-dodge-rat-rod-1.jpgImage result for 1928 dodge street rod

 

 

This is exactly the kind of stuff that I like to grab up.

Many times the seller has bought a bunch of parts while he was still all excited making for an even better deal.

Agreed that many that get started either lose interest or realize that they are in over their heads.

 

 

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Now if the guy just found a body and nothing else then I can see doing other things with it,  especially a rusty one,  but when you find something like the Dodge above that looks pretty complete and in relatively good shape then strips it throws everything away and starts to build a car that will never get finished on a path that can't be returned tto original,  that's the problem. 

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5 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

Now if the guy just found a body and nothing else then I can see doing other things with it,  especially a rusty one,  but when you find something like the Dodge above that looks pretty complete and in relatively good shape then strips it throws everything away and starts to build a car that will never get finished on a path that can't be returned tto original,  that's the problem. 

 

 

Who are you to say a rodder HAS to start with just a body?  Read on before you see that as hate, please

 

...I see stock prewar cars in my area of CT, that simply have no interest at a fair price.  So we have a catch 22 then, the restorer won't buy it, yet there is a good chance a rodder might.

 

  So what would you do? Sit on it forever thinking the market will change, knowing full well that it won't, or darn near give it away rather that see a rodder get it? No the AACA'er won't give it away as they are money conscious when the truth really comes out...don't b/s me

 

Speaking of "Me" hoping to save a really sweet local car 45 minutes away... A 32 Ply PA 4 dr, dual wirewheel sidemounted, stored DRY since 1957...stunning looking zero rust condition....but it comes with the orig motor and a spare, as well as other spares it simply does not need, but simply just the motor is out.,  The crybaby restorers here say it then needs too much work if motor is OK, but out.

 

I want to grab it in the worst way to slap the engine back in and drive it, with a light polishing, & maybe better tires?  But I cannot, I just bought a huge pile of LaS cars/parts.  Yes I do have the small amount of cash needed to buy it, and DO have proper dry indoor storage... But one guy cannot save all the stock cars the crybabies on AACA find excuses to tell the prospective buyer it "needs too much"

 

idiots. say one thing and then be a "money" jerk  Go read the inquiry by the possible buyer here on the Ply forum and then listen to the hero-pros tear it apart,  The buyer opted out, despite my reassurances.

 

Some of AACA members make me ill. They will NOT help to save a stock car, yet bash a guy who mods it.

Those few are a true detriment to our dead/dying prewar hobby when they talk a guy out of one, for their typical jackass talk of being "upside down" to save a "stock" beautiful old sedan, meaning their more precious green paper they call money is more important.  Hey..   line your casket with all that green paper for all I care......I am out of this thread with one last slam...MAN UP

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Here is the car,,,,seems to be still for sale?  IDK

https://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/6099582357.html

please tell me why this beautiful old sedan was "too much work" or too "upside down" by the AACA members that helped chase away a potential buyer who asked?

 

Oh, wait, maybe these are the "main board guys" who start, or add to the monthly thread about hating some idiotic TV car drama show... SEE?? they know how to waste their lives watching TV, so of course this grand old car looks like too much work for the money...they never really did much themselves except write checks,  That is why they have NO CLUE that this car could be driven on the road THIS summer...with not much effort..

 

:(

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Definitely a different car and in different condition as well.  The chrome on the Plymouth is Whipped and looks to be needier than the Dodge.  

As with all Dormant cars,  you also need tires, brakes and even stupid little things like a new BAttery that all seem to total $3,000 just to get a car back on the road.  Not make it nice.  Comes with 2 engines neither in the car is not necessarily a good selling point.    Not knowing the whole story,  that instantly makes me think the one in it was tired or shot and the extra one,  is one that the seller stumbled across that might or might not run,  but without receipts is probably not any better than the one that came out of the car.  Now you have the motors out,  when you go to put them in,  do you just drop them in with those old crusty motor mounts or do you replace those,  better go with all new hoses as well.  None of it is big stuff,  just more that totals up to $3000 in parts before you get it on the road.  I also know that every car I ever bought to get on the road and have fun with that summer, regardless of how long and how many hours I worked on it,  Never hit the road until October or November.  Sometimes that was October or November of the following year.   Of course I kind of like things to be right. My 1936 Chrysler Conv't

If the rims are all rusty do you just stretch a new set of rubber over them or do you send them to the powder coater for 70.00 a rim and get them blasted and coated or atleast blast and clean the inside of the rim and paint that to avoid future problems? All my Cars except the Hudson Pickup.

You are also talking about old wiring and in many cases years of little modifications to get it a little further down the road which are all now failing if not dangerous. 

Sometimes these cars that were parked were parked because they were worn out and it's not just a matter of getting it running.  The steering box might be shot as well as tie rods, suspension bushings etc.  I'm talking bad enough that they wouldn't pass a legitimate inspection.  My 48 Plymouth Conv't

Either way,  rod it or restore it or even revive it,  you are going to spend some money to just make it drive legally down the road in any formation. 

The Dodge looked pretty cleaned and might have been one of the cheaper ones to get back into service.  The attractive body style also  would make it a real shame to see modified.  Most of the time the factory got it right and the guys who thought they knew better didn't have a better execution of style and design.   There are of course exceptions but more often we see the results like I posted above,  a half finished or started project that only the builder really likes or liked until he got so far that he realized this doesn't look so good or isn't going to work out.  Time to dump it,  on Craigslist / ebay it goes. 

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That Dodge Victory Six with wire wheels is a pretty car and seemed to be a reasonable purchase price.  It would be interesting to come back in the fall and find what happened to it?  Regards, Gary

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13 hours ago, 61polara said:

That's a different car in the same area....a Plymouth, not the Dodge discussed above

 

Ok, Kreskin...JUST KIDDING>> OK? :) 

 

I know it is not that Dodge, I was trying to PROVE my point that even when the Ply was linked to the AACA Ply forum, some AACA pro's that are supposed to support this dam hobby, told the potential buyer it was too much work or too much money for the work, the works costs "Oh so Much"...  in a winey cvandyazzed voice in my head right now..

 

NOBODY cares? about a beautiful 32 PA sidemounted/with rack, stored properly from 1957... stored then BECAUSE someone back then thought it was worth saving and preserving.  This AACA azz clown drove away a possible savior. Like Auburseeker says "I just hate to see a nice old car get cut up"  I  DO TOO>   Please lets do something about it then, tell a friend, or a local young guy or whatever, about the car you see in your area that nobody wants to fix as original..

 

I dang near called on that 32 PA last night, then came so very close this morning... but I have 2 early 30 prewars that I truly love a lot that need finishing...and as badly as I want to go get it, IF it's still available,...I cannot.. well, I don't make plans, so maybe I will, IDK

13 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

As with all Dormant cars,  you also need tires, brakes and even stupid little things like a new BAttery that all seem to total $3,000 just to get a car back on the road.  Not make it nice

 

Hold on a moment, now you are treading on my turf.  I do barn find rehabs, to get them to run/drive/stop etc. and perhaps dust some touchup paint... as A PERMANANT CAREER, prewars exclusively .

 

You should bring YOUR next one to me, as I have never (average) charged that 3K  :), and when doing one for myself in the exact nice condition as the PLY, I'd bet under perhaps 800(my cost).  Some whip out the paypal, I don't, when repairing or conserving

 

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I do think that we "restorationists" can unwittingly be the enemies of the cars we'd love to see saved. While many people would be capable of making the functional repairs needed to get and keep something like this Dodge running, far fewer people the skills or bankroll to restore it to factory specs and appearance. But there is  sometimes an unintended shaming of cars that are re-done to less than 100% authentic standards and a focus on details like high quality chrome or inauthentic upholstery that can seem pretty discouraging to someone who just wants an old car to putter around with and love without feeling that they are "remuddling" it or tearing up their retirement money on a "failed restoration."

 

Frankly, while I admire the beautifully professionally restored trophy winners at a car show, I often feel that they seem sterile and reflect very little of their owners' personality. I much prefer the works-in-progress that are not even intended to ever be in the show ring.

 

I was the person who linked the Worcester 1932 Plymouth Craigslist ad to the forum, and I'm disappointed that no one has snapped it up. Although 1920s cars are not my favorites, I considered it very strongly because it caught my eye as a very unique project at what is probably a very negotiable price.  But, alas, I am proceeding too slowly with getting my 1951 Hudson on the road, and I've promised myself that my next project will be my second-favorite car, a 1939-1948 Plymouth, Dodge, or DeSoto. I didn't change course because there seemed anything wrong with the Plymouth, and I hope someone will rescue it before it gets cut up. If only I had a barn!

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If you could get that Plymouth running and safely driving for under 800 just in parts,  You are a miracle worker.  I sell NOS parts and even at my cost of free for alot of parts,  new rubber for anything other than a 15 or 16 inch modern wheel AKA a specialty tire will run you 400 at the extreme cheapest price without tubes or flaps if needed.  Those are some off brand black wall tires.  

A battery last time I checked for a 6 volt was 100.00.  We are at 500.00 right there.  Now it needs a waterpump or a radiator repair or.  A tune up in parts will run you 50-who knows how much just for the cheapest off brand parts.  I made the 39 Buick run and it had some kind of brakes sort of for almost nothing as I had a battery laying around a new cap rotor points coil etc.  I wouldn't take that car on the road though.  It went to a shop next where the guy spent 500 fixing a control arm on it and doing a little fine tuning/ wiring clean up of the bare wires.  The car is still running on 15 year old tires and fortunately already had a new water pump and radiator recore done before I bought it. 

The owner did the brakes himself as far as I was told and I believe he spent over 400 on parts for those, not needing shoes or drums.  

Get a car running.

GEt a car to be a reliable safe turn key driver.  Two totally different games and expenses. 

I guess I just like stuff to be right. 

 

 

patparts 043.JPG

patparts 218.JPG

patparts 222.JPG

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Don't forget to drop the oil pan and scoop out all the sludge while you are at it either.  It all takes time and all the surprises are what costs.  Yes you might get lucky but that only goes so far.  Most of these old cars were parked for a reason.  Drop the gas tank and do that while you are at it.  Dont' forget to replace the rubber line and get teh fuel gauge working while you are at it. 

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I was only trying to inform any new members that may not have alot of experience in rehabbing old dormant cars that a little gas and a fresh battery is all you need to have a turn key reliable driver.   It's easy to learn the hard way. 

Especially when looking at that old forlorn car in their Neighbors barn thinking I'll have this running in a day or two and have fun driving it this summer.  

One of my first old car like that was a 36 Plymouth coupe.  I was about 20 and worked as a mechanic in training at the local marina.  It ran just as smooth as can be,  but had squat for compression.  Got it home and Dad helped me do a valve job and new rod bearings/ piston rings etc.   Didn't touch the brakes or tires which were fairly new,  Had to fix the wiring as the lights didn't work and replace a milked up rear window.  Bought it in the beginning of August.  worked on it after work some long nights and finally drove it after coming back from Hershey. 

The 48 Plymouth ran great.  That was the selling feature.  I started driving it and it started breaking valve springs,  so I went in and did a full valve job and fixed a bunch of other stuff while i was in there.  

Dormant cars are a bit cranky when you bring them back to life. 

 

 

You aren't too far away.  I'm actually up in Warrensburg but that's still pretty darn close. 

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5 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

Don't forget to drop the oil pan and scoop out all the sludge while you are at it either.

 

Very true on older prewars especially.  It must be the oils used back then that can turn oil into some sort of gel?  Real bad if the motor has a pump that fills a rod dipper tray under each piston.  If the oil is gel, it cannot fill the trays.  Then it may run ok and show possibly some pressure, but after 15 minutes or so of no rod oil, the babbit on one rod reaches the melt point in a split second and the entire babbit mass drops out at once.

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1 hour ago, F&J said:

 

Very true on older prewars especially.  It must be the oils used back then that can turn oil into some sort of gel?  Real bad if the motor has a pump that fills a rod dipper tray under each piston.  If the oil is gel, it cannot fill the trays.  Then it may run ok and show possibly some pressure, but after 15 minutes or so of no rod oil, the babbit on one rod reaches the melt point in a split second and the entire babbit mass drops out at once.

Now that's where the $$ add up and if the mains are bad, time to rebabbit the whole motor.  Without inserts,  that's an expensive rebuild most guys can't do in their back shop. 

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7 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

Now that's where the $$ add up and if the mains are bad, time to rebabbit the whole motor.  Without inserts,  that's an expensive rebuild most guys can't do in their back shop. 

 

Exactly.  I do many barn find "start ups".  If it is a 1940-60 era, I know what I can "get away with" as to if the pan needs to come off at day one.  When it is brass or pre-brass, I go into snail mode on "my dime".  I refuse to chance possible damage to frail designs of early engines with totally unknown oiling systems that are simply not alike.  I don't charge for "all" the time it takes to figure out the entire oil system, and then determine 100% if it is working correctly.  Some/many pre-brass are quite bizzare.

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If you could get that Plymouth running and safely driving for under 800 just in parts,  You are a miracle worker.

 

I vouch, Frank IS a miracle worker. He has worked miracles on many of my cars....................................!

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well auburn, that is the best part of this hobby. there is room for 50 different types of collectors. what you like may not be my cup of tea, but we can both reasonably agree that cars and collecting are great.

I never understood trophies myself, but I certainly appreciate a fella who wants to earn one. that is his God given right. A 5. plastic trophy means nothing to me.

I also couldnt care less about people oohing or ahing over one of my cars. I save that satisfaction for myself.

 

Now back to Frank, he gets my car in good running order, then I can add those 1000. tires in black-I dont particularly like whitewalls. I can choose to upgrade or downgrade my chrome, upholstery, etc.

I own some ratty cars and some beauties, but nothing for show. It just isnt me. I do admire others though.

 

and that is what makes this hobby great!

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1 hour ago, mercer09 said:

Now back to Frank, he gets my car in good running order,

 

Your Cord is booked for mid August for sure, a bay will be empty.  I have a "modern-ish" full size Mercedes rear hit coming in next week, then I just found out an hour ago, a 17 Dodge touring coming after that to have the "wrong/ too long" top irons and bows shortened to fit, the owner asked "how are you going at the task?"  I said I don't know yet, but I know I can...he said "Yea, I know you can"  LOL

 

Trying to stay booked with prewars from now on.  Because I like working on them....so it is not really "work". 

 

Ron,  I will post a pic of a mirror I found mixed with LaS parts today.. I think it's called a swan neck? Cord?  don't know if convertible only or what?  I will use the What Is It forum, maybe in day or so..

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