The right car for Peking to Paris 2019 Rally?

[mercer09]

 

Since that is the case, if you like the Buick go ahead and best of luck to you.

 

 

 

I suggested these Buicks at the beginning of this thread, but since Rusty doesnt approve of them, they must not be any good.................. 

 

Buicks are durable wonderful cars and easy to find parts for as well.

[Rusty_OToole]

He could do worse than the Buick. I don't know them that well. Can you tell us why a 1929 Buick would be your first choice for a job like this?

[tomcarnut]

Let me throw in my two cents. A friend who is died a couple years ago did this in the 1990's in a purple 1929ish Marmon sedan. He put a F250 Manual tranny in it. He showed us a movie of the adventure. He was sick most of the trip after eating something bad early on and laid in the back seat leaving the driving to his partner. A closed car would be best with extreme conditions.

 

Tom Muth

[C Carl]

Hi Tom , I would think that under the "extreme conditions" of your unfortunate friend , an open car would have its advantages.  - Carl

[Guest BillP]

2 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

BillP- I agree with you too. Your approach is very much the way I would do it, except I would pay a little more for a car with good paint chrome and upholstery. These things are expensive and time consuming to do, and it would be easier just to buy a car that is good cosmetically. But whatever car i bought I would expect to tear it apart completely and rebuild to racing specs.

 

What a remarkable coincidence! My imaginary coupe has very presentable older repaint, excellent recent upholstery in the original material and pattern and I found a complete set of all chrome for it, including perfect bumpers on ebay! It was mislabeled so I was the only bidder.

[C Carl]

I agree 100% with you , Bill and Rusty. I think Patrick would be best served if he could find exactly that rally/competition car , which had been so prepared by someone else. They do pop up a few times a year. The last one I saw still had a recognizable resemblance to its earlier '40 LaSalle existence. Seemed to have , maybe $150,000 of prep for Carrera Panamericana. I am pretty sure it sold for less than 1/2 that. Turn key , ready to race. Cheap thrills ! 

[C Carl]

Or maybe something gathering dust around here ? I think I'll give them a call. Or better yet drive across the bridge. Good excuse to pay them another visit. Maybe one of the local $1,000,000,000aires is culling the herd !   - Carl

[mercer09]

He could do worse than the Buick. I don't know them that well. Can you tell us why a 1929 Buick would be your first choice for a job like this?

 

 

Rusty, never said it was my first choice, but the overhead valve 6 cylinder is a terrific engine. will cruise easily all day long at 55-60mph. It has the styling I believe the OP is seeking.

 

 

Said Buick ran in the Paris to Dakar in 2010 and completed and reran in 2013....................... not a bad record and to buy a prepared car for that money?

 

a crazy good deal!

 

I owned a 1930 Buick model 58 opera coupe and it was indestructible. The trip is roughly 7500 miles and all sorts of cars are run and complete it. As said early on, preparation is key, more so then which type of vehicle.

[Rusty_OToole]

Maybe the Buick is the car for the job after all. It is rally prepared and engine overhauled. I did say it was worth looking into now I feel better about that.

[C Carl]

Hello again Patrick , I just received a phone call from a gentleman in Belgium with whom I enjoy communication. He and I are great aficionados of Mercedes-Benz and Cadillac. It turns out he knows a previous P to P competitor who lives near him who broke a late '30s LaSalle in Mongolia. Expensive tow back to Belgium. I have recommended to Daniel that he contact you. He speaks English very well , and likes traveling and visiting the U.S.A. frequently. That makes things easy for us , but in your case it is irrelevant ! I expect you and he will have some interesting conversations. Please let us know what your team is thinking after your meeting. You now have attracted the participation of even more experts here , and are generating views at a very high rate. You can be sure that everyone who reads this topic wishes you success , and will greatly enjoy following your progress. Do put a great deal of parallel effort into finding a car already set-up for the task. I will again remind you : crawl under that car and look for an axle truss. If it does not have one , it is not set up properly for P to P. It will be what some of us call a "Pavement Pounder". More advice for a novice off-road driver : get into the habit from now on of gripping the steering wheel with your thumbs outside the wheel , rather than wrapped around it. No one needs a broken thumb anywhere , much less on P to P.   - Carl

[Rusty_OToole]

A late 30s LaSalle or Cadillac would be an excellent choice. For sheer grinding hard work they take some beating  as Maurice Hendry used to say.

 

The LaSalle was a junior Cadillac with the powerful Cadillac V8 engine and chassis. The 3 speed transmission was renowned for its toughness and was used in many American hot rods and race cars. But, if you wanted to install a 4 speed or 5 speed, they have a conventional open driveline which is easier to modify than the Buick's torque tube.

 

If you can afford it and want a heavier larger car the LaSalle would be an excellent choice.

 

I would have suggested a Cadillac, or LaSalle, but I didn't think you would find one in Belgium. Also, they don't have a solid front axle.

Edited March 22, 2017 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Patrick De]

Goodmorning to all!

 

I will surely keep you posted during the job on the chosen car and during the rallye itself.

 

Thanks a lot for aLL the information. I will have to go through it again, and write down some more notes to have a resume of the advises and opinions wich are highly appreciated.

 

What do you think of the following?

I buy the prepared (and 2 times suffered P2P) Rpsrally Buick https://www.rpsrally.com/1928-buick-25-price-35000/

AND also a second same one, to choose between

1/ In Holland http://nl.ww3.autoscout24.be/classified/298549724?asrc=st|as

2/ In Illinois https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/buick/25/1803262.html

 

We fully strip both cars untill the last bolt, check everything, what is changed or improved and how, and than eventually we take the best chassis for the rebuild.

This is probably not going to be the chassis who did P2P already 2 times , because Mr Beerens who did it with a Rolls told me that the chassis suffers so much that some rivets may come loose.

 

I'm the OP. What does that mean?

 

@Rusty_OToole  There is a Lasalle for sale in the city next to!! What an opportunity to have a close look to it http://www.classechique.eu/nl/cadillac-la-salle-cabrio-136.htm  Is it this car you mean? 2 normal springs seems also to be acceptable, not the central leafspring like in the 1940 Ford Deluxe someone told me.

Does a torque tube have a (dis)advantage?

 

 

@C Carl  Ok. I would be glad to listen to this man. If he goes to my company website www.debussere.be he will find all my contact details. Curious what he broke on his Lasalle

 

Thanks!

 

[DavidAU]

I would be checking out the LaSalle.  Later model, newer technology,  a lot stronger chassis, body and engine etc.    More comfort.

 

OP means the Original Poster.  ie  You started the conversation regarding looking for a P2P car.

Edited March 22, 2017 by DavidAU (see edit history)

[C Carl]

P.M. Sent.   - CC

[Guest BillP]

I'm a fan of LaSalle. Strong, smooth, comfortable. I owned this '37 for twenty years or so. As with (almost) everything, I wish  still had it.

[Restorer32]

A few years ago a customer of ours bought a '37 Cadillac 4 door convertible that had sat for 20+ years and entered it in the Great Race from Philly to Calif. We were given 2 weeks to prep this basically worn out museum car. Yea, 2 weeks. We changed the tires, hoses, belts etc. We got the brakes working properly. Patched up the frayed wiring harness so he had lights, installed a good speedo and odometer, patted him on the back and sent him on his way. He managed to finish with much help along the way, including flying in another transmission while he was stranded in the Midwest. Moral of the story? Give yourself sufficient time to  properly prep and test whatever vehicle you buy.

[Patrick De]

Can somebody tell me what the weight of a Lasalle is? (and of the Buick)

Weight is our biggest enemy by far. 

We have 24 months for the preparation and tests, which we will fully use.

 

 

 

[mercer09]

Love the LaSalles................. but they look modern in the realm of things, compared to the Buick.

 

Only the OP can decide which route he wants to go.

 

My personal opinion is the two Buicks are a great choice. Plenty of parts, reasonable and proven.

 

In the end, it is totally your decision Patrick.

 

and I agree with 32, preparation is key.

 

weight around 3500 ibs dry for each

Edited March 22, 2017 by mercer09
add (see edit history)

[Guest BillP]

Depending on the type of body, 3800 to 4000 pounds. Proper tires will carry the weight just fine.

[Rusty_OToole]

Open drive has a driveshaft with universal joints at each end, and a conventional rear axle that you have probably seen before. Torque tube drive has a long tube bolted to the rear axle with a driveshaft inside and only one universal joint at the front. The driving force is taken by a crossmember at the front of the torque tube where an open drive transmits power through the springs.

 

In Vintage times some companies chose one, some the other. American cars that used torque tube drive included Chevrolet, Ford, Buick, and the larger Nash.

 

Disadvantages include, it is difficult to change the transmission or clutch because the whole rear axle assembly must be removed. Advantages include, a sealed drive line protected from dirt, rocks and damage.

[Rusty_OToole]

I would not suggest buying a parts car yet, especially one that is 2 years older. If you decide on the Buick wait until you strip it down and find out what you need. I wouldn't replace the chassis frame unless it is cracked or badly bent. Loose rivets can be replaced.

 

Later.... unless my memory is faulty prewar Rolls Royce didn't use rivets in the chassis, they had  bolts in hand reamed tapered holes. So I don't know where the rivets could loosen.

Edited March 22, 2017 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Mark Shaw]

8 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Disadvantages include, it is difficult to change the transmission or clutch because the whole rear axle assembly must be removed.

 

That is not true for all Buicks.  I have three Buicks with torque tubes that have separable flanges behind the transmission. 

Edited March 22, 2017 by Mark Shaw (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

Weight of 1929 Buick - 4100 lbs (1860Kg)

 

Weight of 1938 LaSalle - 3800 lbs (1723Kg)

 

Weight of 1938 Dodge - 3100 lbs (1406Kg)

[Paul Dobbin]

 

Every year we did the Great American Race (1983-1995 for vehicles 1936 & older), we would see some real exotic's show up for the start. Often on closer inspection we would say "Better get a picture of that one" knowing that endurance was what wins and we'd never see that car again. Like the Indy 500, you can lead for 499 miles and finish almost last or not finish at all)  By the end of our 4500 mile race, the finishers were the tough cars with super preparation just like Indy. Also,I might point out that an ill prepared driver or navigator is often a worse problem than the vehicle. I was young then and the human physical stammina was a real test as well.
Good Luck, but be prepared and you'll have the time of you life.

 

[C Carl]

HI Patrick ! Daniel has sent you an email. As he speakes at least Dutch , French , German , and English , you will make progress quickly. Please read again the first sentence in Rusty's post #101 above. My suggestion to you is , as a first time off-road racer with your first pre-war car , that you purchase and prepare to FINISH the rally. FINISH. Again , you would be well advised to get a car which has already had the last nut and bolt preparation done for you. I may have a line on a '41 Ford convertible which is almost ready for P to P. This includes every chassis nut and bolt safety wired. Already restored , would put you FAR ahead at this point. Price around $40,000 U.S.D. You would ideally want to purchase a car in the last stages of build up , rather than needing the first stage of tear down.

 

What did your team get to regarding vehicle yesterday ? The more we know here , the more we can help. What do you think of just setting a "simple" goal of FINISHING P to P in a pre-war , inexpensive , rugged American car ?

 

My telephone number is 408-621-8261. I assume since you did not ask "what is an axle truss ?" , that you know what one is.  - Carl

[MarrsCars]

This is a very exciting thread to me Patrick. We both appreciate Mercedes-Benz of the same era, I am an owner of a '62 220se coupe and am the founder of the club dedicated to those models, so we have much carry-over between our cars and your Pagoda of course, including being designed by Mssr. Paul Bracq. You may be interested to see this car, now sold, but originally offered for €95,000 after completing the 2013 P2P. 280 SE 3.5 Rally Car

 

Also, if you really would like a Chrysler Airflow, here is one local to me in Portland, Oregon for $31,500 USD. 1937 Chrysler Airflow 

 

I applaud your interest in taking these cars out, enjoying them, putting them through their paces, and giving them some exciting additions to their individual history after what may have been years of sitting in a garage or weekend use. My opinion isn't for everybody I realize, but my cars have always been here to serve me and make me happy, not the next owner or one some 30-years down the line. That is not to say I thrash my cars or don't care for them, quite the opposite in fact, but so long as they are always kept in drivable condition and not suffering from rot or lack of use, do what you like with them. 

[Rusty_OToole]

You remind me that my first Mercedes was a 1962 220SE sedan I bought about 1972. The undercarriage was badly rusted out but it was the only 220SE sedan in Canada. I welded it up and drove it for several years and became a Mercedes fan from then on. The car was privately imported by a German family emigrating to Canada. They were never sold here officially but that did not stop them from supplying every part I needed for it. I still have the factory repair manual.

[Patrick De]

We have to make the choise for the right car. The second aspect of a intense preparing and testing of the car is also defined and decided. What did not yet surfaced is the aspect of the team. 36 days together in a car, on unknown paths. I wouldn’t do it with my wife

Glad to have my best friend Bernard on board. Me as pilot-mechanic, Bernard as pilot-navigator-coordinator. In the last 30 years we had a whole lot of fantastic moments and adventures together and we highly appreciate the added value we have for each other. He has now started to read this discussion. I hope he wil register so he can pull me back if I pass the line.

 

Due to lack of time we did not see any cars this week.

What options are open?

 

1. 1929 Buick https://www.rpsrally.com/1928-buick-25-price-35000/ . Visit and testdrive in UK is sheduled for next week. (+) Looks, spacious for luggage and parts, 2 spares, proven reliability, few to do  (-) Slow, fatigue limit reached after 2 times P2P
2. 1937 Plymouth http://nl.ww3.autoscout24.be/classified/306239651?asrc=st|as . Visit next week. (+) Reliable and powerfull drivetrain with Rusty's bigger engine, fast, comfort  (-) few space for luggage and parts, ground clearance, 1 spare, full prep
3. 1940 La Salle  http://www.classechique.eu/nl/cadillac-la-salle-cabrio-136.htm . Visit next week.  (+) Looks, comfort, V8-fast  (-) ground clearance, heavy, more space than Plymouth?
4. 1927 Delage DIS Colonial  http://www.brightwells.com/classic-motoring/bicester-classic-vintage/bicester-classic-vintage-april-2017/bicester-catalogue-5th-april/  Nr.41 Visit and testdrive next week in UK.  (+) Looks, spacious, Colonial version has adapted higher, longer, wider chassis, 1400kg (3100lbs), fast  (-) 4 cylinder & reliability, 1 spare, parts availability (mechanical brakes?)

If someone should propose a 5th possibility, than please only with link where car is for sale. In convertible - roadster.

 

@Rusty_OToole @MarrsCars Yeah, the Merc W111/W112 are great. Last year I bought a very nice1970 280 SE 3.5. See picture. But I think I will sell it again as I don't like the automatic gear and I share Marrscars opinion that I want to drive it. The other picture is my belove Pagoda and wife in Romenia 

 

@C Carl I have received his email and will answer it today. Glad to have a word with you! At what Cet time you want me to call you? (axle truss, I google the words I don't understand  )  

[C Carl]

All : As I read the ad for the '29 Buick , this particular car is fresh. The ad states that the owner ran PtoP in a "similar" car. The subject Buick , in my reading , has gone through a 4 year build , after being imported to U.K. in 2012. I see no written evidence of use by this particular car. The optimistic scenario is that having run a "similar" car , the owner built a second similar car with the knowledge gained from the first one. I think further clarification is necessary. With our English proficiency, one or more of us should initiate very thorough "interrogation". 

 

Patrick , one major factor is ability to mount tires capable of making the entire run. I put 20,000 miles of EXTREMELY hard use in Mexico on a set of BF Goodrich radial All Terrain T/A tires back in 1983. A highly modified 1971 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (front wheel drive - 6400 pounds at full cruise load) designed to run over 100 mph all day on very hot pavement : about 45 psi front , 30 - 35 psi rear. "Float" speed , 40 - 60 mph on relatively uniform unpaved roads : about 25 psi front , 22 psi rear. Beach sand : 15 psi front and rear. The most difficult 40 - 50 meters of the entire drive , was traversing a slide fill consisting of aproximately "4-man" rocks. It was essentially impossible even for the Off-Road Cadillac. We had been warned about this section. Told that high clearance trucks had a very hard time getting through , and we would not make it. But we got through in about an hour with great difficulty. Almost completely beat the transmission pan out of it. No holes , but almost ! It did hit so hard that the kick down solenoid was smashed , so I replaced the pan with the spare I carried , and threw out the solenoid. I frequently rotated the tires front to rear , and got home with 2 plies in the tread cut through. These were the original All Terrains , and I think they had at least 5 plies in the tread. I never had a flat tire. Carried 2 spares on the trunk lid. Be sure to accommodate state-of-the-art tires. I have no idea what tires may be available for the present wheels on your subject car. You must have this discussion with drivers who have run this race.

 

My feeling is that the Delage is inappropriate for this car killing competition. I expect I will have universal agreement on the forum. If I were contemplating such a trial , I would seriously consider the '41 Ford convertible I mentioned earlier. But did you say you must have a PRE '41 car ? Find a car which will FINISH the rally for you. I notice some very expensive old cars such as Bentley and Rolls-Royce , etc. are beat up in this second cousin to a demolition derby. If you have (almost ?) unlimited money and such sentiments (or lack thereof) , it might be fun to beat and re-construct precious metal. I wouldn't subject a rare valuable car to such a beating. 

 

An axle truss strengthens a solid live drive axle by triangulating the forces applied to the axle housing. It is the housing itself which is vulnerable. You can do this with triangular tapering l-beams attached to brace the axle from beneath , and around the differential housing. Another way to do it is with rods attached to each end of the axle housing , and running to a saddle around the diff housing. Sometimes they may be adjustable with turnbuckles, or threaded Rod , putting the rods under tension. These cut the ground clearance under the axle , so for some types of off road use they are not advisable. For the sustained pounding your car will take , I would advise installing one. Ask fellow experienced competitors. 

 

You , or anyone may call me. I am on the West coast. Patrick , I think the best time for you to call would be after your dinner time , before your bed time. I would like to get a sense of your English abilities. You write quite well , but it might be very time consuming to do so. 

 

Speaking of of bed time , here I am past mine again.   - Carl

Edited March 24, 2017 by C Carl
Refinement and punctuation (see edit history)

[C Carl]

Hello Patrick ! How is it going ? Do you understand the point of my first paragraph above ? The red 28 or 29 Buick you found in England appears to have been prepared for you. In the frontal pic , I see what may be proper tubular shock absorbers (yellow) , or perhaps limit straps also. Limit straps take the load off the shock absorbers just before full travel on rebound. You MUST HAVE THEM. This Buick seems to be the ideal car for you , needing very little more , compared to a car not yet prepped. It has the looks you want , and 2 side mounted spares. I take it you have not yet driven such a car. Sidemounts are desireable over dual rear spares from a handling standpoint. It is a center of gravity and polar moment of inertia benefit. As stated above , I see this car as having been well-built , and it is the SECOND late '20s Buick the owner has prepared ! The one he raced is probably the green one shown in the "Sold" pictures from the same broker. The red one seems about good to go , and has NOT been run yet. You WILL NOT have to dismantle this car. Think VERY seriously about this one. I would like to talk with you. Are you the most proficient English speaker on your team ? If you would like , I could communicate with the selling agent , and get information for you.   - Carl

Edited March 25, 2017 by C Carl
Sentence structure clarification (see edit history)

[C Carl]

Patrick , I have alerted the very active Buick guys to your search. Below under the "Buick Clubs" you will see my topic in the Pre - War section. You will get an enormous amount of valuable information if you ask these great guys. They are the World Experts. - Carl

[Patrick De]

Carl is right about the Buick. I did misunderstand it and this makes a big difference. Question is if you should buy a fresh restored car for my purpose? Or you do it for your own and you go for the 'perfection' and for the purpose you need it or you do it to sell the car and than there is another goal, I think.  Allthough you have a lot of value for this money. Do you agree?

 

Very kind Carl to propose to do a 'interrogation', but isn't it better to do this after I have introduced this 'Buick professional' when I'am there with the car? I can tell him that this is going to be my contact to sell me the (spare) parts I will need. I think I'm better of in your country to buy spares than in the UK?

Availability of spares is not an issue on this car?

 

Regarding the Delage, I think it's indeed a bad idea to chose a 4 cylinder. Will be to stressed.

 

Regarding the Plymouth and the Lasalle, do you have any remarks about my +/- analyse? This is done before having seen the cars. And without really knowing them.

 

Regarding a 1940 Ford, I went to see this one: https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/ford/deluxe/1940/361479  '1 central leafspring in the front is really not a good idea' told the guy who does endurance preparations. I believe him. To much weight and stress on 1 spring (for this purpose).

 

Regarding the Dodge and Chrysler. Those cars remain my favorite, and even more after Rusty's explanations. 

Here you have a link which tells and shows a lot (in English) about a Chrysler 75 who participated P2P.

http://bringatrailer.com/2014/06/26/bat-exclusive-peking-to-paris-veteran-1929-chrysler-model-75/  

But I barely find open ones! 

In Europe I know the proper search engines. In the US I only a few.

Can somebody tell me which searchengines in the US and Canada are interesting? Or does someone knows one for sale? Overseas is no problem.

 

The only ones I have for the moment;

1931 Chryler CD8  https://classiccars.com/listings/view/957907/1931-chrysler-cd-eight-sport-roadster-for-sale-in-st-louis-missouri-63114 . (price lowered by email to 45000)

1929 Chrysler dual tonneau  https://classiccars.com/listings/view/939545/1929-chrysler-dual-tonneau-4-door-phaeton-for-sale-in-roger-minnesota-55374

1931 Chrysler CM6 https://classiccars.com/listings/view/905867/1931-chrysler-cm-6-for-sale-in-sudbury-ontario-p3n1l1 Great! but too expensive to start preparation

Nothing suitable in Chrysler or Dodge on Hemmings, Classicdriver, 

 

[Patrick De]

4 hours ago, C Carl said:

Patrick , I have alerted the very active Buick guys to your search. Below under the "Buick Clubs" you will see my topic in the Pre - War section. You will get an enormous amount of valuable information if you ask these great guys. They are the World Experts. - Carl

 

Carl,

I was preparing, typing my message 103, and I did not see your message nr 102 an 101.

 

Bernard and I had a meeting this morning.

We let drop the Delage, Plymouth and La Salle.

 

So as told already, no action needed untill we have seen the Buick live. Than we can see afterwards, if needed, for a possible 'interrogation'.

 

I don't find "Below under the "Buick Clubs" you will see my topic in the Pre - War section"

I would like to ask them the 'points of attention'

 

Ok for you if I call you in about 4 hours?

 

 

[Patrick De]

I just found information where a German team went to look to the Buick

(see facebook Project "Peking to Paris Rally 2019"  - see posts on 16 & 17 February)

Finally they bought a 1926 Dodge Brothers Tourer...

 

Very very curious why they didn't buy it.

Have sent already a message to contact me.

 

This surprises me enormously!

Anybody who knows if there can be a fundamental reason on mechanical side?

 

[C Carl]

Patrick , we are having this discussion under the heading "AACA GENERAL DISCUSSION " , subheading "General Discussion"  If you scroll down past "FORUM SUPPORT" , the next heading is "BUICK CLUBS".  The subheading is "Buick - Pre War". That is where I posted. Those guys collectively know more about Buicks than ANYONE. Some are even Cyborgs who live , eat and sleep Buick. Dyna-flows through some of their veins ! I mean , some are even so hard core that they seldom or never stray off the Buick forums. They have said so. Introduce yourself there. 

 

Yes Patrick , I need to talk to you. It does have to do partially with English fluency. As I say , I have had my own learning curve with Spanish. There are many people here on AACA who are fluent , or even bi-lingual , in another language. They will also understand , and be patient. You can also be quite sure as you get to know the monumental productivity of some of these guys , that there are geniuses among us. I am not one of those , but I am quite busy today. I am trying to catch up with some of my LACK of productivity !! It would be best if you called me after you wake up and have coffee Sunday. Or after you have dinner.   - Carl

Edited March 26, 2017 by C Carl
Spelling (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

3 hours ago, Patrick De said:

I just found information where a German team went to look to the Buick

(see facebook Project "Peking to Paris Rally 2019"  - see posts on 16 & 17 February)

Finally they bought a 1926 Dodge Brothers Tourer...

 

Very very curious why they didn't buy it.

Have sent already a message to contact me.

 

This surprises me enormously!

Anybody who knows if there can be a fundamental reason on mechanical side?

 

 

It may be that the Dodge Brothers has no wooden body framing, only seat frames, floor boards and tack strips?

[Patrick De]

18 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

 

It may be that the Dodge Brothers has no wooden body framing, only seat frames, floor boards and tack strips?

 

Tack strips are thin pieces of wood, Google translate tells me.

You mean that the Dodge has less wood than the Buick?  

And this is an advantage?

 

[Spinneyhill]

Indeed, tack strips are thin pieces of wood for tacking upholstery in place.

 

Steel body construction is usually considered superior to wood for several reasons. In your case, easy to repair on the road with welding gear and it is more robust, less likely to work loose or break.

[Patrick De]

4 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

Indeed, tack strips are thin pieces of wood for tacking upholstery in place.

 

Steel body construction is usually considered superior to wood for several reasons. In your case, easy to repair on the road with welding gear and it is more robust, less likely to work loose or break.

 

I have an appointment to phone these Germans within 13 hours.

I want to know why they did not take the Buick if its steel body is superior than the wooden one from the Dodge.

 

[oily rag]

 

Dodge cars bodies were all steel from 1922.  They used wood only for floor boards and as stated for the tack strips for upholstery

GM cars used wood in the bodies well into the 1930s.