chistech Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Your car is supposed to have the vent and ventalation windshield. The board above the windshield should have a regulator mounted to it to raise and lower the windshield. There are two pockets on the upper sash that the pins from the regulator go in and are visable in your pictures. So you are not only missing the wood board, but most likely the regulator. Your Buick is basically the same as my 31' Chevy 4dr Special Sedan. Did you ever try contacting Jim at Autowood Restoration, he specializes in Chevy and all GM cars. He could help you with that windshield header board. It will have very specific routed areas and holes located for the windshield regulator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 Actually, I do have that piece and the associated regulator. It is the front crosspiece that I am missing (goes behind the metal sun visor). A crappy old plywood scab was all that was there, and way too crude to go by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest No1Packardman Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Erndog, Are you still restoring this car? I am toying with doing the same thing with a 1930 Buick with an Oval window. It looks like I will be going thru the same thing you have. Should I pursue it? Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 No1Packardman....the car in the photos is earlier than 1930....maybe 1928 or 1927. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest No1Packardman Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 It is? What are the clues that it may be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 1 hour ago, No1Packardman said: It is? What are the clues that it may be? The hood and radiator has the 1928 and earlier contours. I believe the oval window may have come only on the 1927 and 1928 Buick. I could be wrong about the window. The edges of your windows have a crisp edge which leads me to believe it is a 1927. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest No1Packardman Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Sounds like you know these cars very well. I have had more experience with Packards as you may have guessed. I have a couple more questions if you don't mind? 1. Did these cars have electric starters? 2. Do you think this car is worth restoring? The owner wants $1500 for it and I am not sure it has all the parts. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) Yes, it should have an electric starter. It is worth restoring if you like it and plan on keeping it. There is a lot of wood inside that is structural, so if it needs the wood replaced, the cost of that is way over what someone would pay for the finished restoration. I try never to buy a car to restore on speculation as to whether or not I will make money off of it's sale. I don't see any sags in the doors, but it looks like the roof is missing it's covering, so be prepared to see wood rot from water coming into the doors or body. More photos would tell us if it is worth $1,500.00 or not. One thing you might do is to start a NEW thread about the car. That way, the guy who posted this thread will not feel like we hijacked it. Edited July 28, 2017 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 Feel free to highjack. I find this older Buick to be fascinating. The location and shape of the cowl lights is also a clue to being from the twenties. Ernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest No1Packardman Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Ernie, I would like to know if it I worth restoring. I have do some wood working, made furniture and such. Can I find all the parts I need? I know I can get all the rubber, the electrical wiring and glass since it is flat, but tell me about the manuals, and all the other info of how it all works. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 It is not a big money car, so don't do it with profit in mind. The wood work isn't that difficult for the most part, just time consuming. There are lots of publications out there and the '29 Buicks are similar enough to reference for some things. I highly recommend visiting http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com to see some info. Tons of it there; great resource. A big factor in restoring your car...if you are going to try to keep the original engine, check for cracks in the block, especially behind the manifold. It can be a show stopper. Mine has a 27" crack that I haven't determined what to do with yet ($$$). Spare engines are all but gone out there. I looked for many years. I am pretty sure my project is going to get handed down to my son or sold one of these days, as I am 63 and it hasn't progressed much in the 17 years I have had it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 (edited) Well, after years (literally) of procrastination, etc., I am back in the game. When I last posted I was just starting with the re-wooding. I have since remade just about every piece of wood in ash with the exception of the windshield header and the 10 or so slats in the roof. I say I remade them, not remade them well. I am very happy with some of the pieces. Some will need some adjusting and final shaping. I actually had the whole thing assembled (not permanently or glued) and was trying to figure out the shape of the windshield header, which was very crudely replaced with plywood in the past. I started looking at the bottom section, main and cross sills, and decided it needed work. So I took it all apart again and fiddled with the bottom end. I set the cowl on it to make some measurements and did some cutting. This car was missing the original front third of each main sill, so it has been a guessing game. Then, when happy, I glued the cross sills in place. Debated doing that for a long time, but figured it was time. Then I retired from my job after 36 years and sat on my butt for a while and enjoyed doing so. Well, like I said, I am back into the thick of it. Mostly thanks to communicating with several members here on the forums. I started by taking those pesky multi-curved rocker pieces out to my shed to test fit them against the metal skin. They both required quite a bit of dressing up with a bench sander. I also rediscovered several broken-off fender bolts that were in the way and required several days to remove. Fairly satisfied, I moved to the front hinge pillars, which I had been rather proud of in my work. To my chagrin, I discovered that I had woefully miscalculated the dimensions and they will have to be remade. I hoped that I could just add wood in needed places, but some of the missing mass is in critical locations. Live and learn. In my defense, the original pillars were in pretty bad condition and I was guesstimating some of it. One of you fine gentlemen suggested using the metal cover plates as a guide to the shape. Well, duh! That is a terrific idea and no, I did not think of that. It makes it very obvious where some of my errors were. Well, that is where I am at at this point. I need to see how much ash I still have and go get what I need. Then I will do some very careful recreating. That bench sander is going to come in handy, too, I think. Hopefully, I will get this done before I die of old age so my son doesn't have to figure out where I left off and learn by mistakes all over again. Fortunately, people in my family live a long time. No guarantee, though. Edited January 18, 2021 by Erndog (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Hang in there Ernie. Happy retirement. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted January 12, 2021 Author Share Posted January 12, 2021 So, I am slightly encouraged about remaking the front pillars. I think I can do it again. However, it suddenly dawned on me after all these years just how difficult it is going to be to install the cowl section, especially with the engine and steering column in place (no room to remove the engine in my little garage). I am thinking the cowl will need to be sitting approximately in place and then slide the sill section into it. Then set the pillars in place with the "windshield lower cross bar to pillar" braces pre-installed on them. Then try to "roll" the windshield lower cross bar into place while praying the carriage bolts for the "windshield lower cross bar to pillar" braces don't pop loose. After that the rest should be easy. That's my theory, at least. And here I thought the hardest thing was how to deal with those pesky quarter window belt bars. I had an epiphany that woke me up out of a sound sleep this morning. I am of the opinion now that many of these "shells" of old cars out there, with little or no wood left in them, are not just rotted hulks forgotten in time. They are actually the sad remnants of re-wooding projects that were given up on. I am trying real hard to not let this car become one of those. Maybe my wife was right. She has been trying for years to get me to unload this white elephant. I think the hardest part for me overall is the fact that I am trying to do this in my 1 1/2 car garage that has lots of other stuff in it, too. I long for where I grew up and did all my vehicle work when young. We had six acres of buildings and tons of working environment, including a gantry crane. I am considering moving in the near future and several outbuildings are on my list of must-haves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted January 12, 2021 Author Share Posted January 12, 2021 Oops. Never mind about the difficulty of the the crossbar. I just looked at the cowl and see that it won't be much of an issue. I also started thinking I could remove some of the forward toe-board metal, but no, it's spot welded in place. So, the slide-in part will still have to happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hursst Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Ernie, just started reading your post today. Welcome back! I look forward to your further posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 I removed the wiring under the cowl today and put it in storage for future reference. Of course, it will need to be replaced eventually, but that is in the unforeseeable future. It would just be in the way when I try to install the cowl section onto the frame...someday. I think I may have enough ash to get a good start on the new front pillars. I think I will be smarter this time and make plywood or wallboard templates first and possibly "pine dummies". Great plan, now to do it. It is so easy to procrastinate and blame it on planning, but planning is definitely important, as my errors prove. This project is starting to remind me of "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BucketofBolts Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 I am waiting on MegaMillions to hand me the cash for my projects. It might be a long wait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 I think I got the front pillars pretty much remade, as well as the cowl crosspiece which was also incorrect. I will follow up with some photos later. I have been taking a break from the woodwork and doing a lot of removal of 90 years worth of dirt, grease, and unidentified muck. Also, started tackling some engine stuff. And that brings me to a question regarding the fan. Upon removal, I discovered that the idler gear was stripped and requires replacement. I also found there to be a sheet of some sort between the gears and the fan. It needs to be replaced, but I can't tell if it is brass, fiber, gasket material or what? Any info from any of you who may have rebuilt yours? The reference material is woefully lacking when it comes to that level of detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 Rather than messing with the hub / pump mechanisn, you would be better off replacing it with a manufactured hub using ball bearings. They are around. A friend, with a restored '31 Buick, had one of the original type hubs fail and the fan went into the rediator. Not good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted June 1, 2022 Author Share Posted June 1, 2022 That's a great idea, but not currently an option. Bob's no longer carries them. Can't find any other supplier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsan Posted June 2, 2022 Share Posted June 2, 2022 Ernie They are pretty much the same design as the earlier 1925 part. Hugh Leidlein did his usual technical masterpiece on how to make a modified one which you can find here: Likely the only key difference to look out for is the shaft length as that does vary model to model and year to year. Only word of caution is that the eight screw holes for mounting the fan blades to the hub are 'clocked' and not symmetrical . One hole is offset; on 1925- 26 anyway! You can probably get it fabricated if the wallet is willing! I was fortunate to find a retired machinist who worked for a token wage. the biggest expenas was the chunk of aluminum and the stainless for the shaft . THe sealed bearings are cheap and plentiful. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 (edited) The one I made for my 1925 Edited June 3, 2022 by dibarlaw (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted June 3, 2022 Share Posted June 3, 2022 On 7/28/2017 at 3:12 PM, Guest No1Packardman said: Erndog, Are you still restoring this car? I am toying with doing the same thing with a 1930 Buick with an Oval window. It looks like I will be going thru the same thing you have. Should I pursue it? Tim No lower belt moulding so earlier than 1926. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted June 3, 2022 Author Share Posted June 3, 2022 That is a really interesting car! I remember seeing it here a long time ago. I would definitely consider restoring it. Of course, I don't know what issues it may have, but it looks like a keeper! Bear in mind that restoring it is no small effort. I have been hacking away at mine for decades and have little to show for it. That is mostly due to procrastination, frustration, and work constraints. I am retired now, so that excuse is gone. On the other hand, it is a very rewarding thing to make small advances in a restoration. A bit like a giant 3D jigsaw puzzle. The only difference is the cost and that you sometimes need to make your own puzzle pieces, often not knowing if they fit the puzzle. I hope you decide to do it, as I would love to watch your progress. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted June 5, 2022 Author Share Posted June 5, 2022 As I inch my way across the non-wood portions of the car I arrived at the front end. I have removed one of the front shocks and already have an issue/question that I don't see reference to in any literature. Is the bolt at the end of the shock lever a typical tapered shank or is it threaded in? The reason I ask is because I can't remove it. I tried beating it (carefully, of course), and pickle forking, but no-go. Should I try heat? Or am I going about it all wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&J Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 33 minutes ago, Erndog said: a typical tapered shank or is it threaded in? The reason I ask is because I can't remove it. I tried beating it (carefully, of course), and pickle forking, but no-go. Should I try heat? Or am I going about it all wrong? It must be a taper like a tie rod end. There are several types of pullers that would work that you likely don't own. These would support the arm and then a screw point pushes in on the threaded end of the tapered stud. If you have a big solid chunk of steel like an anvil, or a big bench vice with the built-in anvil? Place the bottom of the eyelet on the end of the arm on top of the anvil, then use a big hammer at the opposite side of the eyelet. A well aimed solid hit should momentarily distort the tapered hole and release the grip. It helps to put some tension on the stud with the pickle fork before you hit the eyelet. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 (edited) Are you in the US? If so, you could rent a tierod puller at Oreilly or Autozone that would probably fit. Edited June 5, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted June 5, 2022 Author Share Posted June 5, 2022 (edited) 23 hours ago, Bloo said: Are you in the US? If so, you could rent a tierod puller at Oreilly or Autozone that would probably fit. Yes, and I may actually have one of those...somewhere. Update: I bought a new tie rod puller and got it off. Took quite a few good whacks. I doubt it has been removed in 92 years. Edited June 6, 2022 by Erndog (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted July 2, 2022 Author Share Posted July 2, 2022 So, I've cleaned up three of the four shock absorbers. I will go through them and rebuild as necessary later. Just trying to make a pleasant "work environment" for right now. Here are a couple photos to show what I am up against. I got the bright idea of using a pressure washer to remove 90 years of muck, but that did nothing, even with the "laser" nozzle. As usual, the wire wheel came through for me. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted July 2, 2022 Author Share Posted July 2, 2022 I am also getting ready to change out the head, due to several cracks. So, yesterday I pulled off the rocker shaft and did some disassembly and cleanup. I reassembled today. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 I have one head bolt that is not happy. It feels to me like it is a strong candidate for breaking. All the others seem to have popped loose, though I haven't completed their removal yet. The one bolt makes me pretty nervous, as I have been down that road before. Any suggestions for removing the bolt without breaking it? I have struck it numerous times, end-on, with a small sledge hammer and a 1/2" drive extension upside down as a drift (hugs the contour of the head nicely). Obviously, that is in the hopes of jarring rust loose on the threads. I also applied heat to the head with little effect, but didn't expect much, since the bolt is pretty long and the issue is not at the head. Should I try an air hammer on it? Or is that too violent? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 might be too long a bolt for this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YDNQ3PX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but I've had some success with freeing up things though admittedly it works better on nut as a bolt expanding from heat just gets tighter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 Thanks. I appreciate the suggestion, but yeah, it's a long bolt and it would probably make it tighter. The only thing I was thinking with the heat was that it may expand the two parts differentially enough to break things loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 26 minutes ago, Erndog said: Thanks. I appreciate the suggestion, but yeah, it's a long bolt and it would probably make it tighter. The only thing I was thinking with the heat was that it may expand the two parts differentially enough to break things loose. Yes that's what would need to happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted July 4, 2022 Author Share Posted July 4, 2022 (edited) Update: I did the only things I could think of: heat and mechanical agitation, and lots of it. I actually sprayed penetrant at the base of the head in the hopes that it would find its way down the bolt to the threads. Totally useless, of course. I finally got about 1/2 degree of rotation, so I cycled back and forth repeatedly, took a tiny bit more, repeated several times, ran back in, started over, and repeated the whole process over and over. I think I dodged a big bullet here! Take a look at the photos. It sure looks like the bolt has some stretch in it, nearing ductile failure. Might be erosion, too. New question: Anyone have a good source for new head bolts? Edited July 4, 2022 by Erndog (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 (edited) Today's project was the Handbrake Crosstube. I took it all apart, cleaned, painted and reassembled. Before I reinstall it I will need to remove and do the same to the Front Brake Crosstube, and clean and paint that portion of the frame. Edited July 6, 2022 by Erndog (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted July 8, 2022 Author Share Posted July 8, 2022 (edited) So, yesterday I removed and started in on the Front Brake Cross Shaft. I took it all apart, cleaned, painted and reassembled. Unfortunately, I was over-zealous with some of the paint and had to sand it down to reinstall some of the parts. Therefore I will not post the finished Cross Shaft at this time. I still need to clean up and repaint that area of the frame before installing it anyway. Today's project will be "cleaning up" my garage a bit before my machinist comes over to take some additional needed measurements for the hub puller. Edited July 9, 2022 by Erndog (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 (edited) Well, I got a little further today. I fixed my overpainting mistake and got things back together. I need to take care of some stuff for a couple weeks, so it's going to have to be enough for now. Edited July 10, 2022 by Erndog (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted August 10, 2022 Author Share Posted August 10, 2022 I have some updates to make, but first I have an important question before I ruin something. Is the generator removed with the drive gear attached, or does it need to be removed first?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now