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Question From a New Antique Car Owner


Guest Frances1988

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Guest Frances1988

Hi everyone,

So, I’ve just recently purchased my dream car – a 1955 Buick Roadmaster. The fuel tank has a leak and I took it to my mechanics, who work on vintage cars as well as commuter cars. They told me that I could either restore the tank for $800-$1000 or buy a used tank to put it – and then they told me I had to find the tank itself. First, is this typical when dealing with antique autos? Second, should I restore or buy another? Third, I’ve looked for this part all over the web and called various stores with little success, does anyone have a good vintage auto part dealer to recommend?

I’ve had the feeling that my mechanic doesn’t want to work on my car (when I first bought it, it needed brakes and whitewalls, which took close to two months to get with numerous phone calls. Should I switch mechanics or is this typical?

Anyway, I look forward to meeting all of you!

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It's difficult to find mechanics that are willing to work on old cars.

For those that DO work on old cars;

With the time it takes to find parts, they tend to push the old car to the back burner,

In order to work on something that they can get out the door and make some cash flow.

Do a search on this site for '55 Buick gas tank.

The is a reproduction tank that is close to what our cars need.

(I've still got my original tank)

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Guest Frances1988

I'm seriously thinking about just restoring the tank I have - which is an original. Thoughts? Everything on the car is all original, and I really hate to diminish that...

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I'm seriously thinking about just restoring the tank I have - which is an original. Thoughts? Everything on the car is all original, and I really hate to diminish that...

It's a good question.

I would weigh the cost of restoration vs a replacement.

I elected to stay with the original tank. Mine only needed a good cleaning. So, that decision was easy for me.

It's all about the 'Benjamins'.... How many to want to spend....

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In my view, a replacement tank does not significantly alter the originality of a '55 Roadmaster...

Unless you are trying to restore it to a 400 point trailer queen that never drives on the street

One of the beautiful things about our Roadmasters is the joy of driving the smooth running machines on the highway

Were we talking about a '53 Skylark, that might be a different discussion.

And if, you went with a replacement tank, it does not mean that you have to discard your original....

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Welcome to the hobby.

Most times, you will have to hunt down all your needed parts on your own.

Keep using the internet (you missed all of the fun of trying to find auto parts with out the internet).

Subscribe to Hemmings Motor News, an antique auto magazine with thousands of classifieds for virtually every make of car.

Visit auto shows that have swap meets associated with them.

Join The Buick Club of America and check their magazine, The Buick Bugle.

You need to network with other antique auto enthusiasts.

Good luck. I hope that you can find the parts that you need and that you are rolling down the road sooner than later.

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If he quoted you $800-1000 to fix the tank, he definitely didn't want your business. As mentioned above, learn to be your own mechanic. Don't just throw your wallet at it, get the satisfaction out of doing it yourself. I would check out radiator shops in your area and see if they do gas tanks as well. Many do. Take the tank out yourself and bring to the rad shop. You save money on labour and the shop can give you a much better idea of cost when they can see the whole tank. Good luck!

Terry

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Removing and installing a tank isn't a big deal on these cars and you might be able to find a repro that's a pretty close fit, perhaps from a Chevy if they don't make an application-specific tank.

Alternatively, Gas Tank Renu will recondition your current tank and give you a lifetime warranty on it for less than $500. It's more than a repro tank, but it'll fit right and you won't ever have to worry about it again. I had them do my 1929 Cadillac tank and it cost $290. The only downside is that it is coated inside and out so it no longer looks stock, but on the Cadillac, it's hidden by bodywork, so no big deal. If your Buick isn't a show car, I wouldn't worry about it.

It sounds like your mechanics are giving you the "go away" price, which is designed to A) make you find someone else or B) make it worth their while to do a job they don't want. I've done it myself--it's a subtle way of saying, "No thanks."

Join the Buick Club, too!

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Accorting to another web site,

"1954 & 1955 Series 40, 60 & 100 will interchange and '54-'55 Series 50 & 70 will interchange, according to Hollander's. Nothing else shows as interchanging."

tanksinc.com have 54 tanks.

I have taken out tanks and washed them out with a very strong detergent and water and then sandblasted them while full of water with the (hole on top), drained them and fiberglassed the hole area. Works very well.

Edited by Roger Walling (see edit history)
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Guest Frances1988

I want to work on it - and eventually intend to do all my own work, but the timing is just bad. Working 60 hours a week plus going to grad school at night while trying to finish up a novel. That forces me to go to a mechanic for now . . . I have to admit, there is a part of me that really wants to make my Buick into a show car . . . that's why I am tempted to go all original. I have a friend who has several cars and even the nuts and bolts of the car are original. Everything. I'd like to have one that is at least that way and mine came all-original from the beginning, so it sort of gives me a head start. Don't get me started about the rust on the tailfins that I haven't dealt with yet though . . . I don't want to think about that.

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If you are bound and determined to save the original tank I've used POR-15 on numerous occasions with great success.

Do whatever exterior repairs you can, throw in something magnetic like a bunch of nuts or most of a chain to rattle off loose rust and rinse the tank.

POR-15 does not like shiny clean tanks as solid rust gives it something to stick to.

Pour it in, turn the tank to coat all surfaces, drain and let it cure.

The first time I used POR-15 I poured a little on the floor to see what's what.

I couldn't believe the strength of the cured film........ :eek: .......I couldn't tear it no matter how hard I tried.

Even if you miss a spot, or more, simply put some tape over the offending openings and let it cure.......done.

Since I (we) discovered POR-15 we quit using anything but.

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Frances, where are you located?

Some people have mentioned they have found it hard

to find garages to work on antique cars. Not so here

in Pennsylvania, where I can think of 4 highly reputable

restoration shops (antique cars only) within the area of

our AACA region. Typical cost is about $50 per hour--

and they can do the parts searching for you, but of course

charge for their time.

The hobby is a lot of fun whether you have a $5000 car or

a much more expensive one. And most hobbyists have fairly

modest budgets. So welcome to the hobby!

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