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About critterpainter

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  1. Sounds like a good Idea to move the pistons individually to find the tight ones and give them attention. Usually it will be the pistons on the upstroke or associated with cylinders with open valves that will be more stubborn
  2. Question on the stuck engine. Does the crankshaft rock at all? even just a tiny bit? The amount of wiggle can help determine what is seized. I don't know what drives your camshaft, but the mid 20's and up Buick used a fibre timing gear and if the cam shaft, lifters or a valve are stuck, often the cam gear dies in the process of freeing up the engine.
  3. Usually it is sitting in oil so it is not an issue as it will just suck oil
  4. That intake is know to crack and fail. Memorize the part number that is cast into the intake to help you find a replacement. What Joseph Indusi said is true. those intakes will burn through from the bottom where it bolts to the heat riser.
  5. Your best bet might be getting lucky with a parts car. 52-53 Buck Special 2 doors often have a high speed rear end in them as they were marketed by Buick back in the day as salesman's cars and were advertised to get good economy.
  6. I don't have the phone number for him, but the person you want to contact is Dave Tachney. He advertises monthly in the Buck Bugle.
  7. Check with Bobs Automobilia 805-434-2963 They will open back up on 11/26 or Either M-4 or M-407
  8. Just to scare you, the reproduction cap and rotor are made here in the States by a company that has been making ignition caps and rotors for many decades.
  9. Bobs Automobilia in Calif now has these parts. Check out their CST-393 and their BC-395 in their new catalog!
  10. IF the engine in your car is a 1941 and newer 320 engine the fuel pump in the bottom picture on the right in the last post you made is the correct pump in the correct orientation. On the 1941-52 Buick engines, the simple minded method I use to see whether the fuel pump is for a large series or a small series is to try to put my thumb between the arm and the body of the pump. If your thumb fits, its a large series arm. if there is no way your thumb fits, its a small series engine pump. Another check is that the contact surface on the large series is about 90 degrees to the mounting flange. on the small series, the rub surface tips down at a slight angle. To mount the pump, I don't hold the pump level with the holes, I slope the back hole downhill so the bolt hole on the pump is below the threads on the block. I then start he front bolt and rotate the pump and catch the rear hole. The springs on a fresh rebuilt pump can be quite stiff. Bill
  11. Note: All of your pictures show the pump upside down. don't forget that the fuel pump is on the bottom and the vacuum pump is on top. The fuel outlet is next to the pressure "dome" and will need a right angle fitting in it. It looks indexed correctly in you photos. Can be a bit of a pain to start the line to the carb into it, but patience is a virtue Bill
  12. Spinneyhill is correct, you cant install the early fuel pump on the later engine, and you don't want to. The early pumps had an issue with oil getting trapped at the flange to the block and then seeping out while the engine is off. The flange shape and location on the early blocks is different than the post 39 blocks.
  13. The picture that has "AJ" on it does NOT have the correct arm for a 41-50 Buick. The correct arm goes out from the opening about an inch and then goes almost straight out The arm is similar to the 248 fuel pump but spaced slightly further out from the pump and stands almost straight out while the 248 pump angles slightly away from the pump at the top If the picture posted this is what the arm should look like. the pump shown is 1951-52 320 CID but should interchange with 41-50
  14. Here is a link to the starter.
  15. I believe the Main bearings are poured shell bearings and NOT replaceable insert bearings.