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Everything posted by critterpainter

  1. If the conversion to 12 V was not done right, the gauge is fried. The gas gauge does not like 12V and on a Buick the + or Ign terminal on the fuel gauge is used as a junction block
  2. That looks like an Anne Bell listing. She and her late husband are/was quite knowledgeable about Buicks. She does a lot of E-bay sales, usually at a premium price
  3. There may be what is called a fhanstock clip under the nut. This is the clip that the wire going down to the radio clips to. Also, convertibles and a couple of other models use a Knuckle that has a slightly different angle to it (the chrome part the ant mast fastens to) That knuckle is not being reproduced. Cars buys their ant parts from Bobs fyi
  4. Some years (can;t recall which) had a switch on the trans that would light the brake or taillight when shifted into reverse. One learned real quickly not to park in reverse as the battery goes dead!
  5. This is a bit late BUT Bobs Automobilia has a LOT of the special parts needed for that transmission and clutch. 805-434-2963. They make the parts for the throw-out bearing sleeve, slide and the tapered bellview washer. They also have the linkage out the outside of the trans to help put it into neutral. Also a lot of good used tranny parts. Make sure the clutch release fork has both of the retaining clips on it in good shape. Bobs has those too!
  6. RE the starter solenoid. Bobs Automobilia will not knowingly sell or accept as a core for rebuilding a 6V starter solenoid that has been used on a 12V system. Also there is only 1 12V starter solenoid that I am aware of that has the correct footprint to bolt to a I8 starter for a Buick. It was used on some tanks during WWII. I have never seen one.
  7. I understand that the circuit breakers fatigue with age. Why can't a modern 12v circuit breaker be put in parallel with the old one or used to replace the old one. Someone else can do the math to determine the correct breaker to use. 😊
  8. Bobs will have all the brake pieces you need except the steel lines. He will even have the parking brake cables. 805-434-2963 Don't forget to lube the trans shift cable
  9. Wire wheels Nice! I don't have an answer, but Model A Ford 21" dia tires are too skinny
  10. New water pumps are just that New Reproduction made overseas. I have heard they have plastic impellers, but cannot confirm that. Bobs also keeps rebuilt water pumps in stock. If your car is a driver that collects serious miles while on tour, I would run a rebuilt pump and carry a new pump as a spare.
  11. Could be the clutch release lever failing or not staying on its fulcrum. There is a clip on the clutch release lever that holds it to the fulcrum. If this fails the clutch will not always release correctly. The clip is available from Bobs Automobilia
  12. I have not tried flat towing a teens car, but I have flat towed a Model A. and newer cars. Many cars will just slide on gravel and not steer to follow the tow car. Try it on asphalt like in a parking lot and see it that helps. Don't tow the car at any speed faster than you can drive the car!! Also, just because you can tow the Buick with your van, don't expect to be able to STOP it with the van. The Buick is heavier than you think going downhill to a stop light.
  13. Sounds like a good Idea to move the pistons individually to find the tight ones and give them attention. Usually it will be the pistons on the upstroke or associated with cylinders with open valves that will be more stubborn
  14. Question on the stuck engine. Does the crankshaft rock at all? even just a tiny bit? The amount of wiggle can help determine what is seized. I don't know what drives your camshaft, but the mid 20's and up Buick used a fibre timing gear and if the cam shaft, lifters or a valve are stuck, often the cam gear dies in the process of freeing up the engine.
  15. Usually it is sitting in oil so it is not an issue as it will just suck oil
  16. That intake is know to crack and fail. Memorize the part number that is cast into the intake to help you find a replacement. What Joseph Indusi said is true. those intakes will burn through from the bottom where it bolts to the heat riser.
  17. Your best bet might be getting lucky with a parts car. 52-53 Buck Special 2 doors often have a high speed rear end in them as they were marketed by Buick back in the day as salesman's cars and were advertised to get good economy.
  18. I don't have the phone number for him, but the person you want to contact is Dave Tachney. He advertises monthly in the Buck Bugle.
  19. Check with Bobs Automobilia 805-434-2963 They will open back up on 11/26 or Either M-4 or M-407
  20. Just to scare you, the reproduction cap and rotor are made here in the States by a company that has been making ignition caps and rotors for many decades.
  21. Bobs Automobilia in Calif now has these parts. Check out their CST-393 and their BC-395 in their new catalog!
  22. IF the engine in your car is a 1941 and newer 320 engine the fuel pump in the bottom picture on the right in the last post you made is the correct pump in the correct orientation. On the 1941-52 Buick engines, the simple minded method I use to see whether the fuel pump is for a large series or a small series is to try to put my thumb between the arm and the body of the pump. If your thumb fits, its a large series arm. if there is no way your thumb fits, its a small series engine pump. Another check is that the contact surface on the large series is about 90 degrees to the mounting flange. on the small series, the rub surface tips down at a slight angle. To mount the pump, I don't hold the pump level with the holes, I slope the back hole downhill so the bolt hole on the pump is below the threads on the block. I then start he front bolt and rotate the pump and catch the rear hole. The springs on a fresh rebuilt pump can be quite stiff. Bill
  23. Note: All of your pictures show the pump upside down. don't forget that the fuel pump is on the bottom and the vacuum pump is on top. The fuel outlet is next to the pressure "dome" and will need a right angle fitting in it. It looks indexed correctly in you photos. Can be a bit of a pain to start the line to the carb into it, but patience is a virtue Bill
  24. Spinneyhill is correct, you cant install the early fuel pump on the later engine, and you don't want to. The early pumps had an issue with oil getting trapped at the flange to the block and then seeping out while the engine is off. The flange shape and location on the early blocks is different than the post 39 blocks.