critterpainter

In your efforts to move the car to a new location do NOT attempt to crank or turn the engine over. Keep it in Neutral!!. Remove the water pump before trying to turn the engine over. The Water Pump may be stuck or frozen and it is driven by a Fibre timing gear. If the water pump won't move then the cam gear is the next weakest link and hard to replace,

Another trick is to use vice grips to rotate the valve if it is willing. I was working on a show quality 48 56C that stuck a valve from sitting. Of course it was #8 ex valve that was stuck. I "bounced" a small hammer off the valve but it didnt budge even with Kroil helping. I then tried rotating the valve and it moved just a bit. light tapping and gentle attempts to rotate it freed it up. Been running for close to 20 years now.

Wish you were closer to Goodyear AZ, I would love to dive into that project.

No, running and warmed up. The water cannot touch the fluid in the test kit.

Your car is a pressure system, but the pressure release is NOT built into the radiator cap. It is that round thing on the top of the radiator with an overflow line connected to it. The radiator cap should be a flat "sealing" cap not a pressure cap. I would guess that the bypass device below the thermostat has issues along with a very dirty or plugged radiator. You could also buy a test kit from NAPA to test for exhaust gas in the coolent. Its the best way to verify a blown head gasket.

I thought the fitting in the head was threaded for 1/8 NPT and an adaptor was used to fit it to the oil line.

Any chance that the shift cable is gummy or sticky. I believe 39 is the only year that uses a cable to shift the gears.

Could be. I know the R-45 is still available as a R-45S

Hope you get the right ones. One plug manufacturer used the same plug # that was used in the Buicks in the late 40's and modified it for small engine applications I wish I could remember which brand, but my hunch is AC.

On the freeze plugs no one manufacturer makes all the sizes you need. You have to try several. Bobs Automobilia has the correct freeze plug kit. They may also have used head bolts.

The Metro link won't help as the Metropolitan was built in England and used engine oil in the gearbox.

Are you sure the reverse band is bad? One end of the band fastens to the inside of the case. This piece of the case is known to break off, causing reverse to not work. The repair for this problem can be done in the car without removing the transmission. Northwest Transmission may have the part. Sorry I don't have contact information.

Yes that looks like the remains of the seal.

Actually 1939 Buicks did have a pressurized cooling system but the cap was a sealing cap, not a pressure cap. The pressure release device was the round thing on the top of the radiator that the overflow line connects to. The most common cause of excessive overheating is a failed or failing bypass valve located in the lower half of the thermostat housing. There have been many articles written about this issue and the repairs.

One of the most common reasons for fuel pump failure (or the appearance of it) can be the flex line in the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump. The flex hose is located between the frame and the engine near the starter motor. The original is covered with a steel braid. It can either be cracked and cause a vacuum leak OR swell and plug or restrict fuel. By the way I sent you a private message as I live about an hour from you.

No push rods on the Buick straight 8 after 34 or so.

Yes, but I have also seen a restricter on the side of the oil filter canister (inlet) too!. By the way, you say its a 1950. Is it a Special (248) or a Super (263)?

Once you resolve the issue, the best way to adjust the valves for smoothness and power is to do it with a fully warmed up engine AT IDLE. I know its a pain but you will see a difference. also set the gap to a snug .016, not .015.

If it has sat for a while there could be a sticky valve in addition to slightly tight valves. If you have a vacuum gauge, this would be the time to use it. I am thinking of three possible issues. 1. sticky tight valve. 2. leak at intake to head 3. Dist advance issues. The vacuum advance plate in the dist has a habit of wearing notches into the body of the dist that won't allow the vacuum advance mechanism to advance the timing. If this is the issue, Bobs Automobilia can help you 805-434-2963

Bobs Automobilia has that grommet! It is unique to the compound carb engines. I don't know the part # off the top of my head,

Did you remove the oil line adapter fitting at the right front corner of the head? Sometimes there is an oil screen on that adapter. Also when built the intake and exhaust manifold ports were NOT on the same plane on the manifolds. Gaskets were only used on the intake, but not the exhaust. Most aftermarket sets are 3 piece and cover both the intake and exhaust. There should be a water drain fitting or plug at the bottom of the water jacket on the block above the starter. Often there is so much sediment in the water jacket that the drain hole is completely plugged. It appears that you have hydraulic lifters in your engine so I assume that you have a DynaFlow transmission? Bobs Automobilia 805 434 2963 is an excellent source for parts for that year Buick as their specialty is the straight 8 Buicks.

Those cars look like the scrapping process has begun. The doors are off and the air bags have all been blown to prevent salvage.

Have you checked with Bobs Automobilia 805 434-2963 or Dave Tachney? Hopefully someone will post Daves number.

If you are running an original engine then you have a labyrinth seal, which is a fancy term for no seal. There is a drainback tube to the engine.

Also if you go to Hershey Go to Bobs Automobilia at space GDI 2 through 4 They are a wealth of info and can supply some parts (including rebuilding ignition switches) Tell em Bill with the 02 Thunderbird sent you.