critterpainter

I believe that car (12V for those that don't know) has a starter relay mounted on the drivers side inner fender. This relay activates the starter when the throttle is depressed when the engine is not running. My guess is the contacts in that relay are oxidized. If not that then probably the contacts on the carb are sticky or dirty. The fastest fix is to buy a reproduction of the factory shop manual as it is well covered there.

Just to add confusion, there were replacement/reproduction grills made back in the day! They were made from aluminum not die cast.

Dodge used a sealed oil filter on some of its vehicles from about 1934 to 1954. It had a fitting on the top and bottom that was unscrewed and a new filter put in its place. This was a very popular replacement for many antique cars including Buick when the originals were discontinued. Unfortunately this filter is now discontinued too. It was MoPar # 861028 Many different companies supplied this style filter.

Think of it as a modern replaceable filter. Metal housing with fabric and wire mesh inside. Most originals have rusted from the inside out. Because of the rectangular shape it is not practical to fabricate

I don't believe that one is being reproduced, sorry.

Yes the 27 Buick had a factory oil filter that mounted to the firewall. I believe there was a bracket on the firewall with 4 bolts and the filter assy mounted to this bracket. check with Bobs Automobilia in Calif as I believe they have reproduction assemblies that have a modern filter inside 805 434 2963

When you decide to take this project, make sure to track which wires go through holes in the firewall. Also note if the wires lay between the firewall and the firewall insulation or if the wires are installed after the firewall insulator is in place. It is also important to note which terminal on the Fuel Sender is the "common" terminal coming off the ignition switch. If you get this wrong you fry the fuel gauge.

This is a longshot, but since the frame has been modified to fit the 55 box, check out a mid 50's Chevy steering box. I have heard that it will bolt to a 55ish Buick frame. IIRC Buick changed the mount location in 54 and this change allows a Chevy box to fit

Those wires will be included in the Main Body and engine harness. This is the harness for under the dash and engine. One supplier used to be Rhode Island, but I have not bought a wiring harness in at 7 years. There is/was another supplier I beileve in Oregon

There are 2 main sections to the wire harness. The underdash and engine is one harness and the body and rear harness is the other harness. They plug together at the A piller about 16" up from the floor. There are other smaller harnesses that are needed to finish the job. I won't comment on manufacturers as I don't know who survived covid.

Yes there is supposed to be an insulator under the dash.

What lower hose do you have? original is two short hoses with a length of pipe between the 2 hoses. I have have seen a long hose used to replace the pipe. If the hose is slightly weak and the radiator restricted then the hose may collapse restricting the water flow even more and allowing the water pump to suck air through the gland packing.

Just a quick note regarding the green stripe Gates radiator hoses. Bobs Automobilia DOES use this hose (or at least did as of 4 years ago when I was there last).

Is that an electric fuel pump bolted to the side of the engine?

I believe Bobs Automobilia has key blanks for that lock. 805 434 2963 IIRC they are double cut

Once you have installed the packing do NOT overtighten it. A slight seep is acceptable. To adjust start the engine first and then slowly tighten the packing nuts. If you hear the engine RPM drop your overtightening things. On many Buicks the timing gear is fibre and can fail due to overtightened water pump packing.

I had to deal with a stuck valve on a 1948 Super. The trick was to Rotate the valve, that freed it up! While you have the head off its a great time to clean the rust out of the water jacket.

When new there was a sleeve that fit inside the pipe. The flange held the pipe up on the flare you have and the sleeve had a flat area that the gasket sat on and a short extension that just slid into the heat riser to keep the hot exhaust from burning the gasket. At no time should the gasket not be protected from the exhaust.

Broke as in in pieces or broke as in not working? A switch with dirty contacts can be dis assembled and repaired. Not fun but keeps it original!

EmTee You did it correctly!

On the side push rod cover gasket add a bit of silicone (I hate silicone) at the joint between the head and the block. The high ridge on the push rod cover pushes against the gasket center, not the edge of the gasket. Hope that makes sense.

Any chance the tubes in the heat riser assembly leaking exhaust into the intake?

The broken part might be available from Bobs Automobilia 805 434 2963

IIRC there is a flex line by the starter to the frame. If original it will have a steel braid on it. Many bad fuel pump issues can be traced back the that flex line being plugged or cracked. Often it won't leak fuel but it will suck air!

Will the seller let you drive it? I personally don't think it will be happy at 65 without an overdrive.