1999 Chevy Suburban fuel pump

[Don Jr.]

Hi, Just took a 3 week  4000 mile trip in our 1999 Chevy Suburban. Ran like a top.. We sprung a leak in the gas tank about 1 hour from home luckly. I am going to pull the tank down for repair and because the fuel pump in the tank is 25 years old would like to replace it at this time. Hear stories  about aftermarket pumps not lasting after a few years.  Any suggestions as to which pump brand I should buy. OEM pump now obsolete. Thanks.

[Soupiov]

I never got more than 75k miles on the OEM fuel pumps of that vintage and they always seem to die right after filling up the tank. Don't understand why as I religiously change fuel filters every 10k miles.  You'd think those hot shot engineers would have allowed for changing the pump without dropping the tank.  My 2000 Suburban is on its third OEM pump with 186k miles on it so I'd love to find a better source too!

[Don Jr.]

O.K. Well that is not good. The truck has 130,000 miles on it ? Bought it in Texas with 77,000 miles on it. Never sees a winter. Use it for traveling to family in Texas every year and towing a car trailer whenever. Big spread on prices from $68.00 up to about $350.00. So that is why I asked about it. Not a great job to do so want to do it and be done. Read either Delphi or AC pumps most are using but when I look them up several models pop up . Causing the confusion as to why so many models for same vehicle. Thanks for the input. Will see what ever other info I can dig up on it. Appreciate it.

[Glen Andrews]

1 hour ago, Don Jr. said:

O.K. Well that is not good. The truck has 130,000 miles on it ? Bought it in Texas with 77,000 miles on it. Never sees a winter. Use it for traveling to family in Texas every year and towing a car trailer whenever. Big spread on prices from $68.00 up to about $350.00. So that is why I asked about it. Not a great job to do so want to do it and be done. Read either Delphi or AC pumps most are using but when I look them up several models pop up . Causing the confusion as to why so many models for same vehicle. Thanks for the input. Will see what ever other info I can dig up on it. Appreciate it.

Okay, let me start at the beginning. I have a '99 Corvette, owned 10 years just turned 60,000 miles. As you found out, and I did the OE pump is no longer available. So a few months ago I ordered a Delphi from the site that "has all the parts your car will ever need." Once installed and the car was running I could hear a whining noise as the pump was running, being a Delphi and just paid $225 I was not pleased, so I took it out, sent it back, and ordered another Delphi. The second Delphi made the same whining noise and then after a couple of drives it made a loud whining noise, so I ordered a Carter, price was the same, put it in and the same low whining noise. Now the only difference between the Delphi and Carter was the color of the fuel pick up sock, Delphi was white the Carter was green. The pump bodies were exactly the same, and same wire harness, and so on, sent it back too. So I looked on Ebay and found the same type pump for about $60, ordered one and it was the exact same pump as the Delphi and the Carter, the $60 one has a white fuel pick up sock. The Ebay pump makes the same low whining sound as the high dollar ones, so I figure I can put up with it at that price. Once i get going the whining noise gets pretty well drowned out, but I know it's there! And of course all these pumps come from the same factory in China. My hope is that I can find an OE pump when I attend Corvettes at Carlisle in late August, and if I find one it will not be cheap. So in the last few months I have replaced the fuel pump four times, and yes I do the work; I also ordered another $60 pump off Ebay, put it on the shelf in the garage. So good luck in your search for a fuel pump.

[Don Jr.]

Yikes. That is awful news. $60.00 dollars or $300.00 dollars buys you the same inferior pump.. Guess no one is making a quality pump who cares about customer satisfaction. My original pump works fine but just thought I would  replace it as it will crap out sooner or later. Not looking to do this job twice.. I will ask a few shops I visit and see what they say. Thanks for the update.

[TAKerry]

Not just Chevy. The fuel pump went out on my Expedition at about 140k miles. The replacement lasted just over a year. The third one has been there for about 3 years now. Sorry, the shop did the work and I have no idea what the brand is.

[Don Jr.]

I have had my share of dysfunctional (if you may) parts. Locating vintage tires and tubes was another area that is frustrating. Guess I did not count my blessing from years ago when you bought replacement parts and they actually worked well. As a mechanic years ago I tuned up a 1970's Nova for a customer. Distributor bushing was bad so customer wanted a rebuilt unit. Did all the work for a tune up and car ran worse than when it came in. After an hour of struggling with it turned out the rebuilt distributor had poorly made points in it. They would oil up after a few miles on a road test. Cleaned them twice but an oil sheen kept coming up on them.. Had to go back to parts store and buy a premium set of points that was sold back then. Problem solved.  On the hunt for a resolve for the fuel pump issue. Thanks.

[Don Jr.]

Today is approaching 98 degrees outside. I jacked up the Suburban. Pumped the remaining fuel out. Soaked the tank strap bolts and they spun right out. But I put them in a few threads for now.. I got the clamps off the filler neck assembly and removed the neck assembly. Quite crusty so I ordered one. Searching for new filler hoses. I can buy bulk small hose at my local NAPA but cannot find the main large hose. If it cools down in the next few days I will drop the tank and see where it is leaking from. Possibly repair it or purchase a new one. I called to see about getting it repaired and sealed from 2 local shops that do this. $1000.00 and a month wait. More than I expected. I have repaired rot spots and resealed about 5 on vintage cars in the past. A few at the seam could not get them well.. The others came out well. 

[ABear]

21 hours ago, Soupiov said:

I never got more than 75k miles on the OEM fuel pumps of that vintage and they always seem to die right after filling up the tank. Don't understand why as I religiously change fuel filters every 10k miles.  You'd think those hot shot engineers would have allowed for changing the pump without dropping the tank.  My 2000 Suburban is on its third OEM pump with 186k miles on it so I'd love to find a better source too!

Have you considered that it isn't the pumps that is the problem?

 

If you one of the many who always run there tank down until you are on fumes then that is your problem.

 

Either that or perhaps change brand of vehicles?

 

To put this into perspective, Had a 93 Mercury Cougar that had 140K miles on it when we sold it, with original pump.. A 97 F250 with 150K mile on it when we sold it with original pump, 2003 F250 with a whopping 250K miles on it when we sold it with original pump, 2006 F250 with 150K miles on it on it with original pump when we sold it, currently have a 2013 F250 with 160K miles and counting on it with original pump..

 

How do we do this?

 

Simple, we don't make a habit of driving on fumes, instead we will refill when gauge gets to 1/4 tank and only occasionally go down near empty..

 

Reason?

 

In tank pumps actually depend being submerged in the fuel in the tank to keep them cool and consistently running them on fumes means the pumps are run much longer without the benefit of the fuel cooling them..

 

Either that or GM just makes expensive junk, take your pick..

[Glen Andrews]

6 hours ago, Don Jr. said:

Today is approaching 98 degrees outside. I jacked up the Suburban. Pumped the remaining fuel out. Soaked the tank strap bolts and they spun right out. But I put them in a few threads for now.. I got the clamps off the filler neck assembly and removed the neck assembly. Quite crusty so I ordered one. Searching for new filler hoses. I can buy bulk small hose at my local NAPA but cannot find the main large hose. If it cools down in the next few days I will drop the tank and see where it is leaking from. Possibly repair it or purchase a new one. I called to see about getting it repaired and sealed from 2 local shops that do this. $1000.00 and a month wait. More than I expected. I have repaired rot spots and resealed about 5 on vintage cars in the past. A few at the seam could not get them well.. The others came out well. 

On trying to find a fuel pump I suggest ordering one from Rock Auto and one less expensive off Ebay and compare the two; But first check out each one's return policy, which is typically 30 days, and you eat some freight charges. If both pumps are the same then return the expensive one. I found this out the difficult way as described in my previous post, so again ordering two different ones and comparing is my suggestion.

There is a 2006 Toyota Solara sitting in the driveway here that has almost 200,000 miles and the fuel pump is original. I also keep the gas tanks with in tank fuel pumps at least half full and then fill up; This is something ABear mentioned and suggested as a good habit to help prolong the life of the fuel pump.

My ordeal with the Corvette fuel pump (already changed it 4 times and getting ready to do it again soon) is of my own doing as I am so particular and I want things right, and paying $225 for a Delphi pump I figure it should work without excess noise, so for now I have to accept poor quality and justify it by thinking well for $60 I can deal with it.

[Don Jr.]

That is a great idea. Just trying to save myself the trouble of doing a big job over more than once. Would not mind if I could swap out pumps easily but getting to it is quite a chore. Reading up on different options of brands and trying to educate myself on a good choice. Here I thought the new paint systems available to us were confusing and navigating their options. Tempted to cut an acess hole in the back floor of the Suburban for service but cannot bring myself to cut up a perfectly good panel. 

[Don Jr.]

Took your advice and bought a factory NOS one from a closed up GM dealership. Hope it is a good one. Keeping my fingers crossed. 

[60FlatTop]

I figure the fuel pump motor winds are cooled by the fuel in the tank. I try to top off the tanks on the electric fuel pump vehicles at 200 miles that usually assures me that there will be plenty of heat absorbing liquid. Seems to work for me.

[NewOldWood]

My sisters 65 yr old husband has been a dealership mechanic his whole life and gives the same advice as ABear. I was doing it before I heard it from him just because it made sense. I drove a 98 GMC pickup to about 220,000 miles, the original pump failed at about 180,000. The replacement lasted untill I got rid of the truck. I now drive a 97 GMC, the original pump failed about three years ago at about 175,000. Still running on the second one. I changed both pumps but can't remember where I got the replacements. In both cases I unbolted the bed and tilted it out of the way for access to the tank.

[Glen Andrews]

9 hours ago, Don Jr. said:

Took your advice and bought a factory NOS one from a closed up GM dealership. Hope it is a good one. Keeping my fingers crossed. 

Well did you check to see if they had a NOS one for a '99 Corvette?,

About 10 years ago I had a '99 Yukon that just after filling up the 32 gallon tank the fuel pump quit. I did not want to deal with lowering the nearly full gas tank so I paid the full bill for rollback service, pump, and labor. Afterwards I looked at the rear floor and thought about NEXT time cutting an access hole to get to the pump. I wasn't totally comfortable with that idea as the floor does give strength to the entire vehicle, didn't have to do it as I sold the Yukon almost 4 years ago, what a great vehicle.

NewOldWood:Years ago (12 or so) I changed a fuel pump on a Ford Ranger, I had some neighbors help me lift off the bed, was less aggravating as compared to dropping the tank.

[Don Jr.]

No but I will put your pump on my list of to do things to look for. Never know what turns up. Have a buddy in Ohio that might be sale to look around for you too. Went to my local NAPA today to pick up a few ordered parts and a customer was in there trying to buy a NAPA  fuel pump only not the whole module. His pump went south on him as he gassed up. Pounding on bottom of tank did not  do the trick. He needs the o ring and top snap ring as his are shot when he pulled his unit out. He could not locate replacements. Yes it was a mid 2000 Chevy pick up truck.

[Frank DuVal]

A 99 Suburban still has a metal tank? I guess because it is an old design. Every car/truck I have newer than my 95 Park Avenue has a plastic tank. 

 

Ah, looks like 99 was last year for the metal tank. Cheap, all 4 versions are less than $200 at Rock Auto.

 

I too have soldered many a metal tank to fix leaks.

[Don Jr.]

Yes still has the metal tank. I ordered one from Spectra. A parts house picked up the order from NJ and sent it to me. Box was ripped and beat up. I opened up box and neck of fuel tank bent in pretty good and a few dents to the side of the new tank. Looks like they kicked it all the way here. I am going to clean off the sticky residue from the outside of the tank and prep it for paint next week. Purchased a new fuel tank pressure sensor OEM GM unit, a new filler neck assembly as the original quite crusty. The new fuel pump module will arrive next week. Located a new gas tank main filler hose and waiting to hear back from vendor. And the small return gas hose from the filler neck back to the tank I can buy a 10 foot length and cut it to size. Only thing left is the pressure hoses from the tank up to engine. Will check them out and if they need changing will do so. The truck has been great as I bought it in Texas when it was 7 years old. 70,000 miles on it. Now has 134,000 so guess it was time for things to start breaking down. We only use it once a year to visit family in Texas.   Hopefully with this repairI can get back to my restorations in pprogress. New Suburban prices are astronomical . 

[Frank DuVal]

SUR&R for hard plastic line repair kits to make/repair the hard plastic lines from the engine to the tank. I bought one when I needed to replace the pump in my 94 Chevy Wagon. Salt damage to fuel line connectors, and this company was the answer. (I also buy Cunifer from them also for our antique cars 😉).

 

https://surrauto.com/fuel/

 

Summit Racing is a source as are other internet sources.

[Dave Henderson]

I own a '93 Buick having 120,000 miles, with it's original fuel pump.  With that age and mileage I am wondering if there Is there would be any warning when the pump fails so hobbling home might be possible, or does it just go kerplunk and leave you stranded? 

Edited June 22 by Dave Henderson
typo correction (see edit history)

[ABear]

29 minutes ago, Dave Henderson said:

I own a '93 Buick having 120,000 miles, with it's original fuel pump.  With that age and mileage I am wondering if there Is there would be any warning when the pump fails so hobbling home might be possible, or does it just go kerplunk and leave you stranded? 

For the most part, no, no symptoms, often the failure happens after being driven and the next time you turn the key, no start..

 

Have a sibling that experienced random no starts for a while before failure, wait a few minutes and retry and it would start.. Then one night while 4 hrs away from home stopped to fill the tank at a station and yep, it failed and never offered to start ever again.. My sibling is one of those full tank to fumes driver..

[Don Jr.]

While on this topic. My new tank looks like a sticky clear on the outside of the tank. I assume these new tanks are some type of galvanizing coating or in the steel itself. Was thinking of cleaning off sticky coating and spraying either paint or see some use Rustoleum  galvanized spray paint. Any thoughts? All my former tanks I repaired after cutting out bad areas and tig welding in new steel were painted after repairs and primered then painted black.  Still searching for new fuel tank filler hoses. Reading where new fuel can compromise factory hoses.. Discontinued OEM now. Wrote one company that sells hoses but no reply yet. Cannot call them so playing the waiting game. Thanks.

[Frank DuVal]

And just an FYI. The pump I put in my '94 Caprice wagon (AC Delco) had the hose on the pump split very soon after I installed it. (second tow) I put on some regular J30R9 hose. Later I read that there is special hose for use inside the tank. yep, pulled it out again and the hose was swelling up. I ordered the correct in tank hose and clamps, all good now for a while. 😉

[60FlatTop]

On these older tanks the filler connection hose is a special material designed to inhibit static electricity and a possible spark jump. NAPA used to carry it in 3' lengths and sell it by the inch. I replaced a lot of it service both restored and original cars. I remember one that was only fabric with a few alligatored pieces of rubber hanging on. The owner said he smelled gas when he filled it.

 

Fuel filler pipe hose is recommended over a piece of cooling hose that might be the same size.

 

Note, by recommended over a cooling hose was aimed at those frugal creative types who see the price of the correct hose and seek an alternative. A gentle "don't do it".

 

Edited June 23 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

[bryankazmer]

26 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

 

 

Fuel filler pipe hose is recommended over a piece of cooling hose that might be the same size.

 

Not recommended, required in order to have gasoline resistance. They are completely different compounds

[ABear]

20 hours ago, Don Jr. said:

While on this topic. My new tank looks like a sticky clear on the outside of the tank. I assume these new tanks are some type of galvanizing coating or in the steel itself. Was thinking of cleaning off sticky coating and spraying either paint or see some use Rustoleum  galvanized spray paint. Any thoughts? All my former tanks I repaired after cutting out bad areas and tig welding in new steel were painted after repairs and primered then painted black.  Still searching for new fuel tank filler hoses. Reading where new fuel can compromise factory hoses.. Discontinued OEM now. Wrote one company that sells hoses but no reply yet. Cannot call them so playing the waiting game. Thanks.

The sticky coating isn't galvanization layer as the galvanization process adds a layer of zinc (which is what protects the steel from corrosion) to the steel.

 

I suspect the sticky layer is the oil that is used in the stamping process to lubricate the metal to make the stamping process go smoother plus reduce wear of the tooling. Basically tank is stamped as two halves, the two halves are then clamped together and a continuous spot welder (looks like two round steel wheels) are used with clamping pressure and electric and rolled around the tank seam to create a 100% liquid tight weld bead.

 

Technically, as long as the tank is galvanized there is no real need to paint the outside unless you are trying to blend it into the car.

 

If you want to paint the outside of the tank, you will need to fully remove all grease and oil from the surface. Then you need to etch the galvanization layer chemically, do not skip this step otherwise your paint will peel right off quickly..

 

To etch chemically you can use a special etching primer, zinc chromate in the past was typically used for that but it is hazardous to use. Some metal paint primers may have a built in etchant based on a acid which might work OK but quality varies a lot in rattle cans. Strong vinegar solution might work, but it is very slow and may take several applications over a period of time.

 

My favorite is a rust converter called OSPHO, it is typically used to stop and convert rust to a black paintable surface.. But, it can also be used as an etchant to prepare a galvanized surface, or even other metals like aluminum and stainless steel to receive paint. Using OSPHO as an etchant only takes about 30 minutes compared to other methods.

 

Directions for OSPHO can be found HERE

 

As far as the filler hose goes, might want to look for something that is fuel rated, Buna-N if you can find some in the diameter you need but most autoparts shops should have a variety of fuel filler rated hose that is in bulk that they can cut to length. Don't use radiator hoses, they are not fuel rated.

 

[bryankazmer]

Buns-N is a company’s brand name for their nitrile rubber compounds. That is the right chemistry but other brands are ok too

 

I believe Ospho is based on using a phosphoric acid etch

[ABear]

20 minutes ago, bryankazmer said:

Buns-N is a company’s brand name for their nitrile rubber compounds. That is the right chemistry but other brands are ok too

 

I believe Ospho is based on using a phosphoric acid etch

Nitrile rubber compounds vary from manufacture to manufacturer, some better and and some not so good, so not ALL nitrile based products perform equally so buying a known name brand in this case will most likely net you a much better performing product.

 

I have run into this issue with nitrile based gloves, some hold up to direct exposure to engine oils and gasoline and some shrivel up and tear within seconds of direct exposure.

 

And yes, you are correct with OPSHO, phosphoric acid is the main active ingredient which does the etching and it does that very well when you follow the directions. Yes, OSPHO is more expensive than generic rust converters or other acid treatments, but in my experience living in the heart of the rust belt, OSPHO easily out performs the cheaper methods including all of the "roll it yourself" DIY methods in speed and reliability making it overall a better choice. Sure you can get craigslist rebuild rattle cans etching primer/paints but honestly they are more costly, less effective and result in spotty results that often don't last long.

[bryankazmer]

IG Farben originally held the rights to the Buna name, but it’s now so bandied about that it tells you very little about the NBR source, and almost nothing about the specific compound. Much like DuPont’s original Nylon name. So your point about getting a good compound is spot on. Unfortunately the use of the Buna name alone does not assure that

[Don Jr.]

Hi I found a site called Fuel tank supply company. They show generic sizes of hoses and curvatures to them. But cannot call them. I emailed them last week and no reply! Will try emailing them again tomorrow. And yes I used a conversion coating on a V-8 60 midget I owned. All aluminum body construction. The top coat of paint held up well for many years after being blasted with dirt,rocks and grime. The bottom of the fuel tank assembly now in the truck  has a plastic guard surrounding the bottom half of the tank. I did not know weather I should apply another coating over the new tank or let it go. Not looking for extra work.. I guess with a 25 year old vehicle my hope would be the new tank last at least another 20 years. Thanks.

[ABear]

Your option on adding paint to galvanized surface, not really needed though as the galvanized coating if done correctly typically outlasts the vehicle in most cases.

 

Only concern I would have is any place that might be exposed to rubbing or repeated constant wet conditions as rubbing can remove the zinc layer and constant wet conditions may accelerate wear of the zinc layer.

 

Overall, I would think you are fine to not coat it.

 

If I was doing this, I might be tempted to do some spot painting with bedliner where any mounting straps touch the tank. That could be done by taping off and only painting those areas.. You would still need to etch the areas you want to paint.

 

Keep in mind not all paint on bedliner products are good, avoid the easy to find Rustoleum bedliner, it is junk, basically it is nothing more than a texture paint to give the appearance of bedliner, it chips and scratches off extremely easily, bedliner it is not!.

 

So far, I have found believe it or not that Harbor Freights own house branded bedliner is a tough rubber like based paint that can be sprayed, brushed or rolled on and is tough as nails, doesn't scratch easily.

[Don Jr.]

The tank straps are on the outside of the plastic lower cover so no touching the tank. I see there are several small holes located thruout the plastic cover I assume to let any liquid drain if caught between the tank and plastic cover. Woild like to trust the steel and coating used in the new tank. This tank is made in China so being cautious. 

[ABear]

Plastic cover between strap and tank?

 

That would be a bit concerning to me, even though it isn't metal on metal contact. Pretty much anything in contact with the tank can trap moisture and prevent that moisture from drying off which eventually leads to rust.

 

May take 10 or more yrs but it will eventually lead to rusting.

 

Where was the leak that lead to tank replacement?

 

If the leak was near or under where the plastic touched the tank then you have your answer, paint it with something like rubberized bedliner as an additional line of rust damage defense. A good well bonded coat of rubberized bedliner should prevent moisture from getting to the zinc layer.. Also gives you additional chip resistance from things like stones, rocks and even sand/road salt..

 

Just don't mistake inferior look alike products like Rustoleum's version as it WILL chip and expose the metal surface.. Just because it may have a surface that looks and feels like bedliner, doesn't mean it IS bedliner. I have used Rustoleum bedliner paint once for a small project, won't ever do that again, no substitute for rubberized versions like HF version.

 

 

[Paul Dobbin]

Went through all this about 13 years ago @ 95K on our 2004 Yukon XLT, that had the same tank as the Tahoe.

Chevy Dealer did it for $900 and I can still hear it.   Not a whine but a thump thump thump.   Fixed by adjusting

the radio volume.    Yukon is still one of the best vehicles we've ever had.  Power everything with a tow package

and 6 leather buckets and Escalade 20" Chrome wheels.   Will tow anything in total comfort, and we intend to

keep it until 300 K.

Edited June 24 by Paul Dobbin
added picture (see edit history)

[Frank DuVal]

12 hours ago, bryankazmer said:

13 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

 

 

Fuel filler pipe hose is recommended over a piece of cooling hose that might be the same size.

 

Not recommended, required in order to have gasoline resistance. They are completely different compounds

I read that and I think Bernie mis-typed, as he explained it again below this statement that he wanted to make sure us cheap people would not consider it! And I won't, as hose swelling is not a good idea!

[60FlatTop]

10 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

he wanted to make sure us cheap people would not consider it!

Exactly. My grandfather used to say "The man has fishhooks in his pockets" when it came time to pay. I checked and the proper filler hose is $1 per inch as sold in 3' lengths. I think our local NAPA doubled that if I wanted a length cut shorter. I know I have a few sizes just short of 3' in a dark cabinet.

 

 

[R W Burgess]

On 6/18/2024 at 8:32 PM, Glen Andrews said:

Okay, let me start at the beginning. I have a '99 Corvette, owned 10 years just turned 60,000 miles. As you found out, and I did the OE pump is no longer available. So a few months ago I ordered a Delphi from the site that "has all the parts your car will ever need." Once installed and the car was running I could hear a "whining noise" as the pump was running, being a Delphi and just paid $225 I was not pleased, so I took it out, sent it back, and ordered another Delphi..........

As you near an age of 75 or over you will realize that the whining stops, probably be lucky to even hear the engine sound. Another good thing is that the wife's whining decreases too!!!!   (:-)

[Don Jr.]

Hi, I located the return fuel hose from NAPA. Gates makes a hose that is not affected by oil or gas. As far as the main hose company never returned my 3 emails. Guess they are not interested in selling products. I washed down the new fuel tank and gave it 2 coats of Rustoleum to protect the plain steel tank on the outside. Going to pull the original tank in the next few days clean under there then reassemble things. Will post a few photos as I progress. My computer was sent out for a clean up and tune up. Got it back yesterday plugged it in and it starts up then shuts down. Going back to repair shop in the morning. When it returns running well will postca few photos. Thanks.

[Don Jr.]

Hi all, Today I pulled the leaking fuel tank out. Everything went smoothly until it was time to remove the fuel pressure and return lines off the fuel pump assembly. I purchased 2 different types of tools to get the lines off. The plastic set from Harbor freight would not fit between the pump and the fuel lines.  I even sliced the correct remover thinking I could sneak them in 1/2 at a time but no go. I then tried the metal style that looks like a scissors assembly from Harbor freight and they would not slip in either. Took a break and decided to pull the fuel pump assembly right out of the tank which took a bit but wrestled it out. I was then able to get the rusty tank out. I then crawled up under the back and kept trying to get the metal scissors tool between the pump and lines. After about 10 minutes the tool finally got in. With the tool seated I was able to work the pressure and return line off the pump. Possibly I might modify this tool by drilling out center rivet installing both halves into the end of the fuel lines then use a small bolt to reassemble it. Anybody else have issues getting the lines off. Took photos of job and will post later today. Thanks.

[Don Jr.]

Here are some photos. This truck was from Houston Texas.I bought it when 7 years old. Never used in winter but it is showing rust on tank. Second photo shows rust thru. Third photo is plastic shield protecting bottom of tank. Forth photo of new tank. Cleaned and coated with Rustoleum.