ABear

Wait, what? OK, backup a bit. With starter installed, new battery and now your starter IS turning (running) but flywheel is not, is that correct? If that is the case then Bendix is not moving out to engage with the flywheel. IE your Bendix is sticking in. In this case, most likely need a new Bendix. You may want to check the teeth on the ring gear on the flywheel, wornout or missing teeth can also allow starter to spin but have no Bendix engagement. Your sure when bench testing that the Bendix is moving out freely?

You might need to consider trying a different tire size if you really have your heart set on white walls. Noticed You can find them in Hankook brand but in that size they are out of stock.. Search for Hankook Optimo H724 - P215/75R14 98S Tire which is a white wall. You can check different tire sizes out with an online calculator. https://tiresize.com/calculator/ 225/70R14 is -1.1% difference (slightly smaller diameter) 205/75R14 is -2.2% difference (smaller in diameter) Or you could a bit bigger if you have the space.. Changing diameter does affect the speedo some.

No, don't have that problem myself. Yeah, that most likely will change things depending on your phone OS.. Make sure no empty text spaces are below your last word, the blinking line that shows the end of your text should be at the end of your last text line (see red circle in pix below). Empty space could also be missing profile text in the signature area if you have that turned on, I have not set that up but I have noticed some folks have their cars listed below their reply as a signature. Forums vary greatly on what they call those and I am just getting used to this forum..

Test..

Joe, I was looking for a diagram like that! OK, so it is possible that the rod is a bit too long, did find that there are adjustable rods, might want to look into that although the booster in question has a fixed length booster to pedal rod, not sure if that can be replaced.. Have seen that some boosters also come with a spacer, not sure if that was between booster and fire wall or booster and MC.. No real detail there. But if it is the booster to pedal rod being a bit long then in theory a spacer could be put between booster and firewall. Temporarily for testing purposes, yeah a washers could be placed between booster and firewall to see if there is any effect. If it corrects the problem then make a shim ( cut and fit sheet metal to make a shim or two) that fits the footprint of the booster to firewall). I have a mid 70's Ford with factory disc brakes but they are non powered so I don't have an example to look at for the booster setup so seeing that diagram is helpful.

That booster looks too deep, typically the ones that would have been originally used would have been a shallow more flat pancake design. Obviously, since your brakes worked fine without vacuum on the booster, I suspect shortening the rod from booster to MC might affect pedal position and even your braking. If you have a spare rod, you could try shortening the spare, but I am not sure it is going to work correctly even with shortening the rod.. I am thinking the booster has too much travel throw and possibly too strong and as things warm up the rubber diaphragm in the booster is easier to stretch.. OK, so looking again, your booster looks like a dual diaphragm.. Where the large vacuum line is connected, there is a small vacuum port which has a rubber cover on it.. I think that small port should be going somewhere other than being plugged off.. For the record, there are other sources that are cheaper for boosters and Midland-Ross style are being reproduced.. https://www.classicindustries.com/shop/1969/ford/mustang/parts/brakes/power-boosters/ Have to see if there is any vacuum diagrams around for dual diaphragm boosters, that smaller port would seem to need a place to go, can't imagine they stuck it on for no reason at all.

Good! This has pretty much eliminated everything from Master Cylinder, proportioning valve, brake hoses, wheel cylinders and even brake pads. Booster is most likely bad or incorrect for your installation or possibly your rods and adjustments are still not correct length wise. Not sure if a OEM shop manual would have details on how to adjust correctly. Not to mention since this isn't a "stock" setup and is more of a mashup I am not sure how one would go about making the proper adjustments.. Could be too large of a booster or too long (deep) which may give longer throw as there are different sizes of boosters available.. I try to stick with as much keeping OEM stuff as it was from factory to avoid mashups like this..

Which is why PA can be very difficult to deal with, they require a title which you must surrender at time of ownership transfer. Without establishing a valid chain of ownership anyone can simply steal a vehicle, write up a bill of sale on the back of a napkin and establish they are the legal owners.. No title, now it is up to the buyer to establish some sort of legal documentation that is acceptable to PA. A bill of sale is not a recognized form of ownership, the seller could have a stolen vehicle and sold it to you and given you some made up information like name, date, time and price on any old scrap of paper, but it is not a legal document. Some States are very lax, one state I bought a car from doesn't require seller or buyer to sign off on the back of the title, they simply hand it over to the buyer and that is acceptable in THAT state.. The problem is the way that transfer happens may not be acceptable in all States.. So, I did my homework, contacted one of the Notaries I use and got the EXACT way on how PA needs the title to be handled. In my case, the SELLER had to find a Notary in their state and sign the back in front of the Notary in the seller spot. Notary in that state had to stamp the title with their seal. When I brought the car home, gave title to my Notary, signed the buyer section, and a few forms plus some transfer fees and done in 15 minutes. I did that for a car that I was needing for parts, reason being is I CAN show proof of legal ownership at all times if ever questioned by authorities. Not to mention, it gives me a second option, if the car was in better condition or could be restored and resold I now have more value built in. On edit, something else to consider, in PA, you show up with a Bill of sale they will use that to calculate the PA sales tax you will pay at the time of transfer.. So, OP was looking at a vehicle that sold for say $40,000 at auction, that isn't what the OP will pay to complete the sale, he will also pay all action fees on top of that price like buyers fees and such.. Now that Bill of sale will reflect say $45,000.. Yep, that means the OP will be paying 6% of $45K.. or $2,700 in sales taxes owed to PA on top of all other fees.. Now, if OP bought the car WITH a clean title, he can present the title and then give a fair market value as the sale price.. So, if one wasn't in a auction bidding war and no reserve OP could possibly win the car for say $35,000 they can save $600 or more in PA sales tax.. I would make a hard pass on no title and a hard pass on auctions..

I am sure PA most likely has some way of dealing with a out of state transferable registration which would show some sort of proof of ownership of the former owner.. But, I suspect it may not be as easy as having an actual title of ownership. PADOT does not have that procedure info on their website so one in PA would HAVE to find a good PA Notary that has a lot of experience with dealing with that scenario. Not all Notaries are well versed in handling all aspects of the paperwork so finding one that knows the ins and outs is critical to getting the mission accomplished.

Matt is spot on. While it may not be impossible to get a title for a missing title car in PA, it can be a very long cumbersome expensive process which is done remotely in Harrisburg. Not unusual for paperwork to vanish into thin air in Harrisburg or Harrisburg digs up a lost detail like the serial number or VIN was scrapped, either way you have a large expensive paper weight sitting in a corner of your garage for who knows how long. Titles in PA are issued by Harrisburg and unlike many States, Harrisburg REQUIRES the titles to be returned to them in the event of ownership transfer changes OR scrapping the vehicle. This is far different from many States which the seller signs the back of the title over to the new owner and the new owner now holds their title. Even THIS can trip you up in getting a successful title transfer in PA if you do not do this properly. Often times in other States, seller does not sign the back and the buyer does not sign the back basically trading titles and now you have a really messed up dirty title especially if the original owners are dead or unable to be found.. Harrisburg actually takes back the old title with sellers name and address and will issue a brand new title with new owners name and address. So, to transfer ownership in PA, you NEED a good clean properly done title if you really want to make your life much easier.. Oh, yeah as Matt has mentioned, in PA, ANY serial number or VIN that has been reported as scrapped has zero chance of being revived with the original serial number or VIN. Those branded as scrap must only be used as PARTS to fix or build a new project and with those, you have to use the reconstructed or special build method to obtain a title. As I have mentioned, reconstructed or special build obliterates and historical and collector value..

You are correct, I have a 1901 car, it would not have had a title originally, BUT it does now as domewhere between family ownership there was a change that required to have a title in order to register the car for on the road use. So, when ownership was transferred from my Dad to me, we were able to walk into our local Notary, sign the back of the title in front of the notary, fill out some additional paperwork pay a transfer fee and walk out in 15 minutes with temporary ownership papers and registration. Had we not had a clean title, we would have had more paperwork, more fees and a wait from months to years and the very real possibility of having the whole thing rejected by PADOT in Harrisburg. If rejected, you have to start the process over and pay the fees again and the possiblity that the serial number would not have been accepted and PADOT would have issued a generic home built title obliterating any value to collector car market.... SO, back in the early days of automobiles you would go to your local city and register the car and get a plate (early plates you were issued a number and had to buy a leather blank plate plus the numbers). In some states the plate also doubled as your drivers license at that time and you would remove the plate and hang it on another car that you wanted to drive. The process in PA starts with going to a Notary that is autorized by PADOT to fill out and send paperwork to Harrisburg, Harrisburg makes the decisions, not the Notary. Notary can as long as you have a good title, transfer ownership and send to Harrisburg the paperwork to have a title in PA generated. You cannot skip lines here like a carnival ride. In PA, you are taking your chances and it can take a long time to get approved, having a good title makes it a 10-15 minute process.

"Restorations" won't add any value unless the restoration is to make it a run able/drive able vehicle. Most restorations done via professional shops will put you further in the hole, IE paying for materials, labor and any other incidentals will cost much more than the actual recoverable value of the vehicle. Enhancements, typically are detractants, and depending how much bling you add can and will narrow your resale market and make it a much more difficult sale. VW and VW vans have a real cult following, most of them are looking for as close to original as possible, the cult market is most likely your target audience.. As I see it, with those huge wagon wheel rims and tires, you already have lost some audience for buyers who are looking for originality. Those are out of place, don't look right and make it look like you just pulled it out of a "Hot Wheels" package.. Might work if you are after the "RestoMod" crowd, but even going after that market a 49 HP diesel is going to be a turn off for sure, they will be looking for something that tears up the pavement and burns the tires down to the rim excitement..

Actually, if you would have read my post above yours, I did mention HOW to troubleshoot AND diagnose the problem by disconnecting the engine vacuum. Removing the vacuum to the booster is not harmful, the system basically operates as non power assisted brakes which will require more pedal effort but this will isolate the engine and engine heat factor with the booster as part of the problem. That is a far better way to figure out what is wrong rather than cover up a symptom that can lead to brake failure. What have you "contributed"? Diagnosing? Nope, adding a spring doesn't diagnose and/or fix a dangerous problem, only hides a symptom. Glad you are not wrenching on my vehicles, I would have fired you for that. Pretty much many if not all properly working vacuum booster systems work perfectly fine without the need for a external "pull up" spring, the booster if correct will already have an internal spring and as the OP mentioned is quit strong. There IS a reason why the pedal is not returning on it's own when hot, best to find out why and correct it properly. I suspect defective booster/check valves in the booster and disconnecting the vacuum disables the booster as a away to identify or eliminate where things have gone wrong. OP has mentioned that the brakes LOCKUP AND STAY LOCKED UP when the pedal is down and stays down, that is a very severe safety hazard that needs proper diagnosing and not a mere fix of a symptom.

Because that spring was never needed before? If you cut an artery, would you put a bandaid on it and hope to live? Or would you rather get things fixed correctly.. Brakes are not a place to be lazy with, lives do depend on proper operation at all times.. Spring built into the booster should already be strong enough to return the brake pedal, adding an extra spring would make braking effort harder than it should be.

How it is handled varies by each State. I believe you are in PA.. No title = not real good in PA.. They do not accept just a Bill Of Sale, you WILL need a title if you want to register and plate it for on the road use. Do not go through out of state "titling" outfits, fair chance PA will reject any of those made up titles due to folks using them for washing titles clean. For the most accurate and up to date info, you NEED to visit with your local Notary as those are the people you NEED to go through to handle titling, registration and plates in PA. Personally, I would RUN not walk from any auto that the seller cannot provide a good clean properly signed title when dealing with PADOT especially if you want to register for on the road use. Worthless, parts only. You will spend a lot of money on the processes to get a title, can a long time before you know if the application was accepted or rejected. Mean while you have this new project that you don't dare spend a dime on until you get a reply that the application was accepted.. But your best source of info really is directly going to any Notary that handles PA Titling/registration and plates, not here on a forum. Auctions are a horrible places to buy from, always end up paying more, most are basically pieced together like putting lipstick on a pig. There are a few options but most will result in a new VIN issued with a unbranded title with the current yr.. My recommendation: DO NOT BUY WITHOUT A TITLE unless it is for parts.