Soupiov

I tried painting white walls on black tires. It worked but it did not last under use. The spares stayed fine but when the rubber hits the road with all that flexing it eventually failed. I would think that in your case it would be even worse. I used a special paint supposedly designed for that purpose but can't recall the name.

Thanks for all the input. This is a 30-U Plymouth 4 cylinder and I am running a BB-1 carburetor that I believe was supplied on PB Plymouths. The carburetor has the larger orifice for gravity feed as my car has a vacuum tank. Last night I swapped out another BB-1 from one of my other cars that was running fine and had the same result so I guess it must be a vacuum leak. The engine was just rebuilt and came back from the rebuilder fully assembled to include the manifolds so all I did was put the carburetor on. Guess the manifolds are coming off next but I was thinking about checking with a vacuum gauge first on the off chance that it was something else; that's why I was asking what a reasonable vacuum reading should be.

Compression is good on all cylinders. Car will run at high rpms with choke full choke but not idle. Dies when choke is in.

What is a decent vacuum reading off the intake manifold for a four cylinder engine running a Carter BB-1 carburetor?

I have gotten complete drive lines for my 30-U Plymouth twice. Sadly, each time a solid running car was being rodded but at least good parts were saved from the scrappers!

If it's a '30 U it would look like this

He did the top wood for my 30-U Plymouth about 5 years ago and was very helpful. It was my understanding that he is disabled and the woodworking was something that he could do from home. I certainly hope he is OK and still working.

Absolutely right! Thanks so much! Actually, I am a bit embarrassed because I should have know what they are as I have a similar truss rod set up on my '10 T.

Found these in a pile of Model T parts but they are clearly not for a Model T. Any ideas?

Going through some parts that I acquired years ago for my 1930 Plymouth I came across a transmission, including the emergency brake drum and band, that is not for my car but looks to be for a Chrysler product, maybe Dodge. There are two sets of numbers on the case. One number is 27329 and the other number is 308741. I don't need it and would like to identify it so I can get to someone who can use it. Thanks.

I have used baking soda liberally spread over and worked into the material. Let it sit for a few days and vacuum out. Might take a couple of applications but it should eventually absorb the odor. Worth a try, it's a cheap fix if it works.

I used it to kill mildew that I inadvertently introduced into my garage via an old tire. Worked fantastically and got it all in places that you could hardly reach otherwise.

My first antique was a 1930 Plymouth purchased by me from the original owner in 1962. Still have it and finally getting around to restoring it after 20 years in storage. It's about 80% done which in restoration parlance means I have about 60% left to finish!

What year and model Dodge was this carburetor used on. I found it in a pile of Model T parts.

I would first make sure that the mercury can be returned to the base if you are looking for an operating meter. Sometimes it goes down easily and sometimes it never goes back down.

I don't think Austin Clark ever really worked at much other than his cars, at least while I knew him. I believe his family had vast holdings in pre Castro Cuba in the sugar industry.

The FARTS was organized by Warren Kraft of Cold Spring Harbor who was a good friend of Austin Clarks and Wally McCarthy. Warren was the "benevolent dictator" of the club as he retained the exclusive authority to bestow membership on worthy recipients who shared his interest in brass era cars. Warren recently passed away at the age of 97 and for the past several years the group has been run by "Committee".

I run brass era T's at my home in Jupiter Florida and in season the traffic there can be intense but there are roads with 30 mph speed limits everywhere. Flat as a pancake so I can easily keep up with traffic. In the summer when I am up in the Adirondacks I can also find great roads with 30 mph speed limits but there the hills can offer a bit of a challenge trying to maintaining the speed limit with 20 horsepower. I have never had a problem holding up traffic and if I have someone behind me who is in a hurry to break the speed limit I pull over and let them go.

I don't care where you live, unless it's in the middle of a major urban area, there are plenty of roads out there where you can safely drive a pre war or even brass era car if you approach it sensibly. You just have to do a little planning and avoid rush hour situations. I drive mine regularly just for the fun of it and can't understand why anyone would want an animate object like a car and not use it as it was originally intended to be used. Admittedly it is more of a challenge than it used to be but to my way of thinking it is well worth the effort.

I have a few T's all with clincher rims. Some have flaps, some don't and I have never noticed a difference in longevity. But you certainly have to be more careful when mounting tires without flaps. I actually find mounting tires with proper fitting flaps to be easier. There's no right or wrong answer to your question.

Back in 1964 I was working for a doctor who collected cars. He bought a 1924 Cadillac touring from a man in Maryland and sent me down by train to drive it back. I was nervous but the Cadillac made it back to Long Island New York without missing a beat. A year later he had me deliver a 1936 Rolls from Long Island to Buffalo. Again the car never missed a beat. Don't think I would do anything like that these days!

I'll buy it for $3,500 cash right now!

Lining up the manifold with the glands can be a bit of a chore especially if the manifold has warped but it is well worth it. Just make sure you have shaved them enough so you can tighten the manifold enough to crush the exhaust manifold gasket. If you can find sandwich copper O rings that will fit well over the glands they will provide a better seal than the one piece exhaust manifold gasket. Lots of people omitted them on Model T Fords and that accounts for the thousands of warped exhaust manifolds that have sagged at the rear.

I just drove over 1,300 miles from Florida and spent a total of 18 minutes on route fueling up. How much time would I have had to spend fueling up if I was driving a Tesla? If you can afford a second car for limited around town driving EV's might be a reasonable alternative but I need a vehicle I can take where I want when I want and EV's ain't that!

I would think that a copy of a bill of sale signed by the buyer with the sales price noted would be all the seller needs to meet his tax obligation and would be enough to establish whether or not there is a taxable gain.