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Jim's 64 buick lesabre


Jim 64

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Hello everyone this is my 64 buick lesabre. It had been sitting in my bosses cow field since 1998. I offered him $150. And he said yes! This will be my first  restoration. It's going to be a cruiser however it does have the high compression 300 engine in it. Believe it or not the engine was not locked up but had no spark. I changed the coil and points and squrted a tiny amount of starting fluid in the carb and cranked it over and it briefly started! It has factory air conditioning. Everything is Original on this buick. The trunk latch is stuck closed any advice on how to get that open will be appreciated.i have the title also.more pics to follow. I'm having trouble locating an upper radiator mount for the car..lots of them for cars w/o air conditioning but none with ac.

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2 hours ago, Jim 64 said:

Hello everyone this is my 64 buick lesabre. It had been sitting in my bosses cow field since 1998. I offered him $150. And he said yes! This will be my first  restoration. It's going to be a cruiser however it does have the high compression 300 engine in it. Believe it or not the engine was not locked up but had no spark. I changed the coil and points and squrted a tiny amount of starting fluid in the carb and cranked it over and it briefly started! It has factory air conditioning. Everything is Original on this buick. The trunk latch is stuck closed any advice on how to get that open will be appreciated.i have the title also.more pics to follow. I'm having trouble locating an upper radiator mount for the car..lots of them for cars w/o air conditioning but none with ac.

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Do you have the key to the trunk but it just won't turn?  If so try attaching a straw to the nozzle of a can of PB Blaster and squirting it into the keyhole and letting it sit awhile.

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1 hour ago, lancemb said:

Do you have the key to the trunk but it just won't turn?  If so try attaching a straw to the nozzle of a can of PB Blaster and squirting it into the keyhole and letting it sit awhile.

I do have the key I'll try that.thanks

20230929_154925.jpg

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Looks like mouse nesting materials on the floor?  If so, be careful removing that stuff.  There is the hantavirus associated with mouse droppings which can be a big problem for humans. 

 

Have you looked under the back end to see if the trunk floor is still intact?  Usually when sitting on or in the dirt the thin metal will rust through.  In that case you may be able to squirt the trunk lockset with the PB Blaster from underneath.  I recommend a blast a day for 5 days and then try the key.

 

Good luck  

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Nice looking lines on that ‘64 which were used on a lot of the Buicks that year.

 

The 300 HC should be a nice engine. Be aware they have a nylon coated timing gear which can deteriorate over time. I used an all steel gear set and chain on mine (and the Riviera) because mine failed on the ‘64 Skylark.

 

An original shop manual will be a good friend to you both!

 

Enjoy

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

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On 10/21/2023 at 9:18 PM, JohnD1956 said:

Looks like mouse nesting materials on the floor?  If so, be careful removing that stuff.  There is the hantavirus associated with mouse droppings which can be a big problem for humans. 

 

Have you looked under the back end to see if the trunk floor is still intact?  Usually when sitting on or in the dirt the thin metal will rust through.  In that case you may be able to squirt the trunk lockset with the PB Blaster from underneath.  I recommend a blast a day for 5 days and then try the key.

 

Good luck  

The trunk floor looks to be intact from the bottom will wear a respirator for sure thanks for the info

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On 10/22/2023 at 4:04 AM, rodneybeauchamp said:

Nice looking lines on that ‘64 which were used on a lot of the Buicks that year.

 

The 300 HC should be a nice engine. Be aware they have a nylon coated timing gear which can deteriorate over time. I used an all steel gear set and chain on mine (and the Riviera) because mine failed on the ‘64 Skylark.

 

An original shop manual will be a good friend to you both!

 

Enjoy

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

Thank you for that info I didn't know that..will definitely change that to solid metal..I actually just ordered the service manual 2 days ago 40 bucks 

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8 hours ago, sebastienbuick said:

woww great project ! I like ! :wub: 
I will follow this beautiful story and its restoration ! :) 

Oh boy I only told you guys a fraction of the story behind this vehicle like it was stolen and the thieves shot at my boss when he pursued them.

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8 hours ago, sebastienbuick said:

woww great project ! I like ! :wub: 
I will follow this beautiful story and its restoration ! :) 

Also I've told you guys only a fraction about me here's a tidbit I'm a veteran of the gulf War with a big case of ptsd...

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In your attempts to get the car started, DO NOT try to run the car on whatever stale crap is in the gas tank! Old stinky gas is bad stuff. Disconnect the line to the tank and use some kind of an auxiliary fuel supply with fresh gas from under the hood. At some point you will need to remove the gas tank from the car, completely clean it out and check it for any leaks. 

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4 hours ago, The 55er said:

In your attempts to get the car started, DO NOT try to run the car on whatever stale crap is in the gas tank! Old stinky gas is bad stuff. Disconnect the line to the tank and use some kind of an auxiliary fuel supply with fresh gas from under the hood. At some point you will need to remove the gas tank from the car, completely clean it out and check it for any leaks. 

Absolutely 

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Great car. I have a 62. You may want to get yourself a parts book too. I can say for 62 that finding A/C components can be a challenge. Although, that mew may be the least of your worries at this point :). Havign parts book can show you a drawing of what the part looks like and also will tell you if it is used on other years. Sometime that can help you to broaden your search. 

 

By all means, share your progress. 

 

 

Regards,

Dan 

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  • 1 month later...
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On 2/19/2024 at 3:38 PM, Jim 64 said:

I'm probably gonna have to replace the metal lines.

Don't hesitate.  I've had a couple near death experiences from  brought out of hibernation and will never again drive an old car with old lines without replacing lines.  The brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and they'll rot from the inside out where it's settled then suddenly pop if you apply hard pressure.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok almost done with the  brakes replaced the lines. Now it's timing gear replacement...I tor it down and it had the timing gears replaced...however I am changing them anyway.20240329_163554.jpg.a02d52ad451b76f09877f90a13a6b3d5.jpg

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12 hours ago, Jim 64 said:

I'm tossing around the idea of pulling the engine and replacing all the gaskets 

When in doubt. "crawl, walk, run".  I'd stay focused on getting the car roadworthy first before worrying about minor oil leaks and cosmetics.  Pulling the engine can lead to additional complications/roadblocks...

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On 3/29/2024 at 9:21 PM, Jim 64 said:

I'm tossing around the idea of pulling the engine and replacing all the gaskets 

When finished, toss that idea out. The engine looks dirty in the timing chain picture,  but not oily. 

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 I guess it depends on how bad any leaks are, but otherwise I'm with the other guys as don't go that far till you get it roadworthy.

The rear seals can leak badly, I've been there but they can be a bear to do on those engines, but if it's just seepage don't worry about it.

The only thing you might consider would be to pull the oil pan and make sure the pick up isn't mostly clogged, though by the look in the timing chain area the engine doesn't look too dirty as John said so chances are that will be alright.

 

 The more you take apart, the more things can go screwy on you before you get it back together and working again.

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I don't know for certain, but the first place I'd look is for a lever somewhere near the center of the split in the bumper between the parking lights.  Look through the grille and you should be able to see the mechanism.  There should also be a secondary latch to release after the hood pops-up.  You'll need to stick your fingers between the bottom of the hood and top of the grille and feel for it (or just look for it).

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The tab for this is usually to the drivers side just between the chrome strip on the hood and the top of the grill. The like Em Tee said there shoukd be a second catch as well.

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This is a 63 and it will be close to yours

 

image.jpeg

 

In the close up below you can see the hood latch just to the drivers side of the mechanism. It curved down under the top grill chrome strip and is tucked above the grill itself

 

image.jpeg

 

 

 

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