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25 Dodge tourer restoration


Mattml430

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On 8/23/2023 at 1:48 AM, Mattml430 said:


I made sure the chassis number is clearly visible for when it comes to get the club permit for it. 

 

 

Amazing work as always, Matt.

What do you mean by club permit, is that in regards to the Aussie Club. If so, can you elaborate on why it's so important?

I haven't studied the serial #'s on cars, I'm guessing this "pad" in the photo is the area that all 1925 models would have been stamped?

 

I've only studied truck serial #s and why it's important to preserve them.

I honestly wish more effort and attention were paid to serial and frame #'s like you've exhibited in order to preserve the historical record and in turn help eliminate a lot of the confusion within the DB community.

 

Appreciate your attention to these details.

Dave

 

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Thanks Dave. Over here we can have the car on a club permit. It has to pass a safety check or road worthy certificate. You also have to be a member of a car club. It’s preferable to keep the original chassis number but if one cannot be found the DVM will issue you with one. 
Close up I can see these ones easily. 
A club permit can be for 45 or 90 days of use per year. We need to write down our travel destination every day we use the car in a log book. 

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Club permits here in Oz vary from State to State some are quite similar but for example in Queensland you can only use your club permit car for a club sanctioned run or tour whereas in Victoria and South Australia you can use the car on 45 or 90 days per year for any purpose as long as the log book is filled out.

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We don't know how lucky we are here in the US. Most states have antique license, PA. being lifetime registration with limited driving. We can drive for club events and one day a week for pleasure, no night time driving without sealed beams. Only lights required are what was factory, so legally pre -22 don't need brake lights.  But no inspection, which allows many POS cars on the road that are nothing more then parts cars. My Light Repair Truck only has a kerosene tail light and kerosene cowl lights, no headlights. 

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I guess we go back to my favorite, “SAFETY”

I am happy to have brake lights and indicators to assist with visibility and a check of roadworthiness is essential.
Driving a car that is obviously not roadworthy simply to get a plaque that affirms originality is showing a complete disregard for common sense.
How much is your family worth? 
 

 

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6 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

Matt, if I understand correctly you need to belong to a club to get discount antique insurance too. Is that correct? A friend in NZ said he was not allowed any rust to get registered. And all welds were inspected, even on the body. Could not be ground before inspection. 

Our insurance doesn’t really come into it. You can insure with anyone that will take you. I’m with Shannon’s because they specialise in older cars. 
we don’t need to have welding inspected for a safety certificate. No rust is allowed though. 

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2 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

Matt, I think it was an article in Beaded Wheels that gave me the idea you had to belong to a club to get antique insurance.

Antique cars could actually be different here  Doug as mine come under vintage. I’m not a 100% sure on thAt. 

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On 8/27/2023 at 12:24 PM, Mattml430 said:

Thanks Dave. Over here we can have the car on a club permit. It has to pass a safety check or road worthy certificate. You also have to be a member of a car club. It’s preferable to keep the original chassis number but if one cannot be found the DVM will issue you with one. 
Close up I can see these ones easily. 
A club permit can be for 45 or 90 days of use per year. We need to write down our travel destination every day we use the car in a log book. 

 

Two words come to mind ...

The Gestapo ;) 

 

I kid, but definitely good in many ways.... thanks for clarifying.

 

 

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This is not a bureaucratic restriction on use.  What you may not know that vehicle registration in Australia includes compulsory third party (CTP) insurance.  This represents a large proportion of the cost and is based on average risk over each full year.  Concessional registration schemes operated by each State and Territory apply a discounted rate of CTP based on restricted use.  For example, here in the ACT full annual registration can cost in the order of $A1,000+ compared to around $A125 for 60 day concessional use.  For the uninitiated, CTP covers injury to all persons, including the driver, involved in road accidents. Vehicle and other property damage may be covered by optional comprehensive insurance.  Finally, there is no barrier to full registration of a vehicle otherwise eligible for the concessional rate.

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Picked up the engine today from the engine rebuilder. He was very happy with the way it all went back together. So I’ll try get some paint onto it tomorrow so I can get it back into the chassis. IMG_3646.jpeg.95cbe6a8be361fa9e6ad67357761d28e.jpegBit of masking and sanding to be done. I did do a lot of prep on the engine for paint before it went to the engine rebuilder. IMG_3645.jpeg.06e31276c4ced2ae5864b4a06cbacde7.jpeg

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Not the screw police but if you were picky the starter/generator is wrong for the year. The one fitted is a G (fuse at rear).  It should be a GA, with fuse on top.  I also notice that ceramic water pump seals have been fitted and fear that you may have used one of the locally available water pump shafts.  The problem with these shafts is that the keyways have all been milled in line.  The keyway for the drive gear should have about a 20 degree offset if the magneto drive is to line up with the timing marks on the gear.  Without the offset you will end up with about five degrees retard at full advance (ask me how I know).  This is OK if a distributor is used as the timing can be corrected at the unit.  With a magneto the only way would be to rotate the drive yoke and devise an alternative to the keyway and pin fixing.

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The starter is the original with the car so may of been changed at some stage in its life. 
The shaft is very local, I made it identically From the old one from some stainless. I made sure the key ways were cut the same. image.jpg.910c19a267ad77b2966ae408476aae4f.jpgeverything is at TDC so it’s looking pretty right. 

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Engine went in today. Everything seemed to go in nicely. Took a bit of effort to line up the clutch square shaft but once I took the top off the box it was simple. 71567170829__E66CB07E-C305-40F1-9FCA-501B508FA769.fullsizerender.jpeg.a7cc7cd3a73e1bf8550351087e648701.jpegGetting stuck into the wheels next so I can get the chassis rolling. 
I was going to create a new thread for making the new wheels from start to finish if anyone would be interested in that. I thought it might be a good thread to have to help people out refurbishing wheels. 
I’m not sure whether my method is 100% correct but it seems to work ok. 

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This is the colour we are going with. It’s the closest thing we could find to the original colour on the car. Sorry about the dodge’y fingers. IMG_3671.jpeg.fc349d739868f6e19e5dd0e483ed8d4e.jpegNah I’m not really very sorry at all. 😂

Body and rims will be this colour and guards will be black. Spokes will probably get a light stain and not painted. 

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3 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:

I was going to create a new thread for making the new wheels from start to finish if anyone would be interested in that. I thought it might be a good thread to have to help people out refurbishing wheels. 

 

I'd vote for it. We can never have too many helpful avenues of information when folks need it. 

You never know, someone may stumble upon it that isn't a DBC or AACA member and could prove to them they have a place with one or both clubs with other like minded individuals.

 

 

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10 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:

 Sorry about the dodge’y fingers.

 

best not let the EPA see those photos, they'll shut you down or call in the bubble boy crew to insure you're safe. 

You'll never get anything done then,... they'll see to it!

 

 

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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My hands look like that most of the day and have done for most of my life. Can’t see them being clean anytime soon working on these old girls. Some of that gunk in these old engines gets in. I try wearing gloves sometimes but I usually fail. 

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Off topic, Matt. Do you or anyone have a original sample of Cartouche Yellow seen in this ad? It was also on several confidential bulletins I've come across.

A lot of the old color charts say "Gold" or "Ivory" but they don't specify the actual color and was hoping to find out what this Cartouche Yellow looked like. Sorry for the diversion, I can delete this post if you'd like 

 

 

 

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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The colour books my old mate brought in today for me have hundreds of colours in them. Had a lot under specific car makes back as far as the early 50’s. I couldn’t find any dodge but Chrysler was in there. It may be there but would take many hours to go through the books page by page. 

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4 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:

The colour books my old mate brought in today for me have hundreds of colours in them. Had a lot under specific car makes back as far as the early 50’s. I couldn’t find any dodge but Chrysler was in there. It may be there but would take many hours to go through the books page by page. 

No need... 

If you happen to stumble across it someday please let us know. I think there is much confusion in the DB community about this "Gold" and "Ivory" color and may help clarify some things.


Now back to your regularly scheduled broadcast... ;) 

Beautiful job on the engine btw!

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Dave, I THINK it is close to the Latrobe Cream in Matt's post. Cartouche if I remember was used on several different makes of cars. There is actually an original paint coach on line right now. I will see if I can send it to you. I used One Shot light yellow for my pinstripe and I like it. Those color charts and names back then can be confusing, like the gold. No comment on the fingers. I know I would not eat with them. 

Edited by nearchoclatetown (see edit history)
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Well I’m out on bail “just”

the chief of screw police “Ronny” raided me yesterday and found a Phillips head screw on the floor under the 24 body. Almost had me in handcuffs but I told him Doug had planted it to try and stop me working. I just need to report to him weekly. 
Enough of the bull shit.  it was great to finally catch up with Ron and talk a bit of dodgy stuff with him. We had a good day and Ron and his lovely wife Kerry came to our coffee and chat at our club rooms this morning. 
They brought the senior down and what a beautiful old girl she is. Beautiful restoration Ron. 

Edited by Mattml430 (see edit history)
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I got the radiator out today ready for paint. Ron has carted it all around the east coast of Australia after he picked it up from Bob in Murwillumbah. Great job once again Bob thank you. 
Thanks Ron for taking such good care of it all the way down here. 
I will get some satin black onto it in the morning. 

IMG_3706.jpeg

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Carburettor is all cleaned and rebuilt.

IMG_3684.jpeg.f8fbe6fcd7117b4d4c5aa7f537c125ed.jpegDisassembled ready for cleaning   
IMG_3696.jpeg.677061d7e5fab5a084d78d1f1b1b744c.jpeg Ready to go back together after ultrasonic cleaning and scotchbrite wheel cleaning. 
Also made new gaskets and then found them in the gasket kit I got from Tom & Cindy. Gotta hate that. 🤦🏽‍♂️

IMG_3711.jpeg.76c49f1b240eb326a91c07492ad98652.jpegBack on the engine. 
Half way through giving the vacuum tank a freshen up. 
IMG_3709.jpeg.e054ca3ed2e0f41ef763cfd9d766a032.jpegAfter a light bead blast

IMG_3710.jpeg.321d51e631ad113a0d8b1f40674052b2.jpegBit of crud in the bottom of it but not to bad considering. IMG_3712.jpeg.e788d11ae555647f53744c9235735a11.jpegThe poor old outer canister was a bit worse for wear so I spent a bit of time getting the small dints out of it. I have a solid round dolly I use to help get them out. 
 

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I ended up taking the bottom off the vacuum tank today so I could straighten it out on the bead roller. It worked really well but I ended up with a small leak around the outlet tap. I must of got to much heat on it and melted the solder. I’ll fix it up in the morning. Bugger it 😂IMG_3714.jpeg.f36af46ce0f3ee30df1d1f5e44838f87.jpegIMG_3715.jpeg.fb97088344501fd20f4f4e138bcb1e4f.jpeg

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