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22touring

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Everything posted by 22touring

  1. Thanks very much for all the great help, suggestions and pictures!
  2. .04", or 40 thouandths, gap, so that is not the problem. Must be wrong wire feed rate, wrong current or wrong amount of gas. What would cause my welds to be all burnt out in the center and black around the edges?
  3. For my first practice welds on the 20-gauge, which turned out badly, I held the two pieces of metal together with butt weld clamps at a .40" gap. Is that too far apart? I'm wondering if that is part of the problem. Correction: The data sheet for the clamps says .4 inches, but that's impossible, so they must mean .040", or a 25th of an inch! I'll measure the gap and report back.
  4. Nobody in my home town had any 18-gauge or 20-gauge cold rolled, so I had to travel to the industrial outskirts of Sacramento in order to buy some from Metal Mart. I think that is probably because the local body shops fix rust holes by stuffing them full of steel wool and applying fiberglass over them, so they don't need to be buyin' no stinkin' sheet metal. The 18-gauge seems noticeably thicker than the steel that was used in my DB, and the 20-gauge is close but maybe a little bit thinner. I think I am going to use the 20-gauge to repair the cowl. I'll bet 19-gauge would be perfect, as Mattml430 said, but Metal Mart didn't have any of that. My MIG welder came set up for "no gas" use, with flux-cored .030-diameter wire, and I had to convert it over to the solid .022 wire and to use carbon dioxide as the shielding gas. You would think converting it over would be easy, but there were a surprising number of niggling little details which required multiple trips to the hardware store for brass compression fittings, buying new contact tips, etc. Also, buying an inert gas cylinder, regulator, flow meter and a new roll of wire was pretty expensive. All in all, it was more difficult and expensive to convert it to gas use than I thought it was going to be, but I think it had to be done. Trying to MIG weld sheet metal with flux-core wire just creates too much heat, don't you think? I can see why they sell you the welder set up for "no gas" use, though. The price of admission is much lower that way.
  5. "LOL", as they say these days! I had forgotten (or more likely repressed) how I had stuffed fiberglass into the hole when I did a half-vast restoration in the mid-'80s. So now we are going to find out how well paint stripper will remove fiberglass.
  6. Will you at least be able to receive some compensation for the damage by filing a claim against the other driver's insurance?
  7. With the old, non-standard shift transmission like your uncle has (but without the abnormal wear), you can either get used to the second-gear noise or do a complete rebuild to try to get rid of it. I got used to it. LUB164 is a good oil to use. When the transmission was re-designed in 1927 to adopt the standard shift pattern, it was built much beefier and had no noise problems.
  8. I certainly would appreciate receiving any advice or suggestions that my fellow Dodge brothers might have about the correct way to repair rust-outs at the bottom of the cowl, where it meets the bottom of the body. Thank you kindly.
  9. I find it strange that the body of the Porsche 356 that I am also restoring is also made from 18 gauge sheet metal because I have found that it is much harder to move the sheet metal on the DB than on the Porsche. Is that perhaps because the Bros. used chrome vanadium steel in their body?
  10. Oops, thanks, JayG. I was using inches rather than mm.
  11. Would anybody know from what gauge of sheet metal the tub of my 4-cylinder touring car was originally made? My only means of measurement is a digital caliper, which isn't really too accurate. Thanks. retroguy
  12. Art, I thought that the pinion gear and rack on the Stewart carburetor, which you seem to be referring to as an idle adjustment, actually lifts the air valve and thereby controls not only the idle mixture, but also the main mixture. If anyone disagrees, please correct me. Is your air valve not lifting enough, or too much, for some reason? Has it perhaps become detached from the rack, making proper adjustment impossible? I think that originally the air valve was only swaged onto the rack, and it will come loose after many years. I had to solder mine back onto the rack. At first glance to the uninitiated, who may not be clear on the carb's theory of operation, when the air valve and rack become separated it is not obvious that they need to be firmly attached to each other.
  13. Not to disagree with any of the foregoing because the guys who've already replied to you are entirely correct, but I believe the correct green engine color for a '23 is DuPont DuLux 83503 - 1958 Peugeot green. Check out this thread: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/44755-engine-color/
  14. nearchoc, your post made me realize that I need to re-join the national DB club. For some reason I let my membership lapse some time ago (probably because my restoration stalled). That was a mistake. Now that I'm back into that resto, I need to read those articles you're referring to!
  15. nearchoc said: "The body shop I had do my work said to always use a self etch primer." I do recognize nearchoc's expertise, but don't the product data sheets say you shouldn't spray self-etch over freshly-blasted or prepared steel? Doesn't self-etch need some rust to react with, or else it doesn't adhere properly? The body shop I go to says you should spray epoxy primer over freshly-prepared steel because it prevents rusting better in that situation than self-etch does, FWIW.
  16. Borough Essex, I also have a 1922 model. There are two series of 1922 DBs: early and late. The model changeover occurred in July of 1922. The late series '22 is quite recognizable because it has a taller radiator and cowl than the early series had. Here are some references you might want to obtain: "Book of Information - Dodge Brothers Motor Vehicles" - the factory instruction manual. Lots of theory of operation and repair information. I am not aware of any reprints, but it is available on eBay. Try to get one for, or close to, your model year. "Mechanics' Instruction Manual - Dodge Brothers Motor Cars and Graham Brothers Trucks" - factory publication, reprints available. "The Brothers Dodge" - Automobile Quarterly, First Quarter, 1979. "Dodge Brothers - 'Good Enough' is Not Acceptable" - series by Don Butler in three installments in Cars and Parts magazine during the Spring and Summer of 1979. Charles K. Hyde, "The Dodge Brothers: The Men, The Motor Cars and The Legacy", Chapter 6: "Dodge Brothers under Frederick J. Haynes, 1920-1925"
  17. I have had good luck brazing cracked exhaust manifolds, although I know some people say you shouldn't.
  18. Rodger, of course I do recognize you as a DB expert of renown, but may I suggest that the top saddles became optional equipment earlier than '24. Jim Mallars (RIP) said his dad told him it happened in late '21 or '22, as a result of the 1921 recession. As with many things DB, apparently changes were phased in over a period of time. My '22 touring (manufactured in late November of 1922), which seemed to be rather original, had no saddles and had the factory cover plates and bolts installed instead. Edit: I looked it up in the 1928 Master Parts List. The top rests were standard equipment until November 21, 1921 on touring cars and until January 5, 1922 on roadsters. I was very lucky to have DB forum member, gentleman and scholar Warren Seeley of Phoenix, AZ sell me the correct saddles for my car at a very reasonable price. Thank you so much, Warren.
  19. I don't believe that anyone has mentioned LUB 164 1500W oil, which is also sold by the same restoration supply companies. I have had good results with it: much less grinding and clashing of gears than with the 180W I had been using.
  20. Yes, that would be easier than building a fixture to hold it, I must admit. It is probably just that I am emotionally invested in the idea of building such a fixture because I recently obtained the tools and materials necessary to make one and to attach it to the concrete floor. I'd like to hear any other suggestions, though.
  21. I'm trying to straighten the passenger-side front fender on my 1922 touring car. The front of it got pushed back, and I need to pull it forward. That chrome vanadium steel requires a lot of force to pull it, so I need to bolt the fender securely to a fixture in order to do it successfully. I would very much appreciate hearing about fixtures that you have made or used, or that you think would serve, to hold a DB front fender for body work. I'm just not at all clear about what kind of fixture to construct. Thank you.
  22. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the Screen Side would have used the same license plate support, going across the spare tire mount, as the rest of the DB lineup used. In the attached picture of the rear of my pretty original and correct '22 touring, the stop light (that the state of California first required in 1924, and which the original owner added at that time) is the red one below the yellow running light in the official Dodge Bros. accessory rear light enclosure. Another accessory, aftermarket "stop" light is mounted below the factory stop light because it better grabbed your attention. The red-dot reflector is another period accessory item. Oops, forgot about the Screen Side's side-mounted spares.
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