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TonyAus

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Everything posted by TonyAus

  1. As far as I can determine, the linoleum and aluminium trim on the front floor was deleted from the 1925 series (July 1924 on). However, I chose to use it on my 1925 roadster as a neat finish. And I used brown linoleum to match the body colour rather than the more correct grey.
  2. The car number 62,545 would indicate assembly around April 1916. The sequence is 60,000 31 March 1916 to 70,000 24 May 1916.
  3. Matt, please rotate the starter/generator so that the fuse faces up as per usual. Picky? Moi?😁
  4. Again, try Peter Jackson. He may be able to have some made to your sample.
  5. Rubbers for the saddles are available from Peter Jackson (Old Era Services). He made patterns from originals I gave him many years ago. They consist of half circles (top and bottom) held in place by protrusions which fit into the holes in the front section. The white rubbers are just visible in the attached image.
  6. Not the screw police but if you were picky the starter/generator is wrong for the year. The one fitted is a G (fuse at rear). It should be a GA, with fuse on top. I also notice that ceramic water pump seals have been fitted and fear that you may have used one of the locally available water pump shafts. The problem with these shafts is that the keyways have all been milled in line. The keyway for the drive gear should have about a 20 degree offset if the magneto drive is to line up with the timing marks on the gear. Without the offset you will end up with about five degrees retard at full advance (ask me how I know). This is OK if a distributor is used as the timing can be corrected at the unit. With a magneto the only way would be to rotate the drive yoke and devise an alternative to the keyway and pin fixing.
  7. This is not a bureaucratic restriction on use. What you may not know that vehicle registration in Australia includes compulsory third party (CTP) insurance. This represents a large proportion of the cost and is based on average risk over each full year. Concessional registration schemes operated by each State and Territory apply a discounted rate of CTP based on restricted use. For example, here in the ACT full annual registration can cost in the order of $A1,000+ compared to around $A125 for 60 day concessional use. For the uninitiated, CTP covers injury to all persons, including the driver, involved in road accidents. Vehicle and other property damage may be covered by optional comprehensive insurance. Finally, there is no barrier to full registration of a vehicle otherwise eligible for the concessional rate.
  8. I'm sure that Joe will get this fixed. Look at the obstacles he's overcome so far! And if all else fails we, his faithful followers, could consider chipping in for some new technology. After all, he's provided us with a heap of free education and entertainment over the years.
  9. As belated advice you could have chased out the burred thread with 3/4" UNF tap (16tpi) fitted with a suitable handle.
  10. I don't think 'mud scrapers' is the correct term. I know them as kick plates. The purpose of the flat ones on the chassis valance is to absorb the impact of a misplaced boot when entering the car. My roadster did not have them fitted and I did have to remove a number of dents in the valances. The large curved ones are to protect the front face of the rear guards in a similar manner or from items strapped to the running boards. Of course these are accessories normally provided by the owner rather than the maker of the car.
  11. I should have mentioned that the manual I have is the export version. This includes detailed instructions on both magneto and coil ignition.
  12. The answer is found by reading on in the handbook. Four types of switch were used: Three and four point for coil ignition and three and four point for magneto. The coil ignition switches connect and disconnect power to the coil from the ammeter. The magneto switches, as previously indicated, just ground out the magneto in the off position. Returning to the original problem I think that it's a matter of derangement within the switch. Carefully bend the tabs holding the back of the switch and remove the innards. Check that the key barrel is moving the contacts correctly between the coil and ammeter terminals. One problem I found with these switches is that the original wire terminals were relatively thick. If you use modern thinner terminals with or without the original spring washers the terminal screws can protrude too far into the switch and cause electrical mayhem.
  13. The bolts you have are original - they were fitted with cup washers under the heads. Suitable washers should be available from your local hardware store. The floorboards were edged with plain bent aluminium. Some time ago I posted dimensions for this edging - see my old posts. And the covering is NOT vinyl - its linoleum.
  14. Not impossible. All you need to do is cut an internal relief where the thread is to end. 0ne thread wide and deep is enough. Set your threading tool so its point enters the the relief and mark its shank where it enters the hole to be threaded (some tape, paint or what have you). This establishes a disengagement point for the half nuts. Cutting the thread at your lowest available speed will give you time to disengage. Works for me every time and if your reflexes are better than mine the relief could be dispensed with.
  15. Hand throttle is best set at about 1/3 travel. Go easy on the enrichment knob. I find about 1/2" pulled out is sufficient to avoid flooding at that throttle setting.
  16. You must have pretty small eggcups - I make it 15.66 l/100km.
  17. Regarding the exhaust colour, I think you will find that light gray to white is a thing of the past. This is residue of lead oxide after fast running. Unleaded fuel will always leave a black exhaust. I found that the original instructions do not work with less volatile modern fuels. You need something between a cloud of black smoke and popping on the overrun obtained by trial and error. The result should be around 18 miles per (imperial) gallon.
  18. Regarding cleaning the axle housing, you might consider going over accessible surfaces with a knotted wire cup brush in an angle grinder to remove the bulk of the rust. Then find a blaster who uses sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to do a final cleanup. Any remaining SB can easily be eliminated with water and is not a threat to moving oily bits.
  19. The use of rubber appears to be a relatively recent idea - good because it both eliminates squeaks and does not hold water. My car, fitted with an Australian body, originally had untreated felt strips. The result was disintegrated felt and pitting of the chassis.
  20. We seem to have a confusion of nomenclature here. In Australia the bits on the sides of the chassis and between the dumb irons are called valances and the engine to chassis covers are splash shields. Not sure about the exact US equivalents.
  21. You will need to obtain some uncured rubber strip - enough to cover the top faces of the chassis from the front dumb irons back. In other words, wherever the front apron, front fenders and body bear on the chassis. Do not use webbing - this will retain water. The side aprons are placed on the top of the rubber followed by the body. They are retained at the top flange by the body, by the running boards at the bottom and bolted to the fenders at front and rear. Use the fenders to establish the correct fore and aft position of the aprons before bolting down the body.
  22. To get the gauge ring off run a piece of broken hacksaw blade or a thin knife between the glass and the ring. The aim is to dig out the remains of the top gasket. Then apply a liberal dose of your favorite penetrant (WD40 etc) which should drain down toward the threads. Keep a pool of penetrant on top of the glass for a few days, gently tapping around the outside of the ring each time you think of it. Only then will you have any success with a strap wrench - patience is a virtue. The quick way is to apply heat to the ring. This is also a quick way to the undertaker.
  23. This may be a little long winded but it may help. Some time ago you mentioned an inability to find an SAE standard for screw on hubcaps. I think that there is a standard but it's related to application of screw threads by diameter rather to a specific component. Your three inch pinion adjuster probably also fits into this category. According to Machinery's Handbook, SAE standard threads use constant pitches over certain sizes. In the course series, over one inch uses eight TPI, the fine series over 1/2 inch uses 12 TPI and the extra fine series uses 16 TPI over 3/4 inch. This would account for the 16 TPI threads commonly used on hubcaps which are generally in the two inch+ range. Returning to your problem, Machinery's Handbook also has a useful table of dimensions for US standard threads which may save you some guesswork. It states that the depth of a 16 TPI external thread is 0.03834 and the corresponding internal thread is 0.03383. The under five thou difference in mating threads is obviously the working clearance. In theory, if you turn up a three inch test plug and thread it with an infeed of 0.038 or a little more it should fit. Or, if you feel rash, you could skip making the test plug.
  24. Dare I suggest that the two parts might be held together by a left hand thread?
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