TonyAus

Thanks, but Vern did contact me some time ago - no luck on the fan belt unfortunatly. Tony

The gauge has a copper bourdon tube so any solvent is unlikely to harm it. You might also check the needle pivots are not binding and apply a little clock oil to them. Careful application of very low pressure compressed air combined with the solvent might solve your problem.

It's amazing how fond memories can be shattered by a little knowledge. Recently, in an idle moment, my thoughts turned to John Steinbeck's novel about the 1930s dustbowl era and the travels of the Joad family to California. Chaper 16 of the novel contains an account of the replacement of a rod bearing in a 1925 Dodge. When I first read it more than forty years ago I was most impressed with the description of the process, most probably because we had a 1925 Dodge in the family - which I still have. Anyway, I decided to re-read the chapter have have come away a little disappointed. Firstly, "Al handed over the bucket and Tom set it under the car and loosened the oil cap with a pair of pliers. The black oil flowed down his arm while he unscrewed the cap....." Wrong. As you all probably know, draining oil on a four cylinder Dodge is acheived by removal of one oil line flange bolt. This action is most unlikely to result in oil running down one's arm. On removal of the pan, lumps of babbit were found. The offending rod and and attached piston was removed from the bottom of the engine and a trip undertaken to the nearest town in search of a replacement. On finding a replacement rod and piston, it was realised that some form of ring compression would be required to fit the piston into the bore. This was achieved by binding the piston with fine brass wire, forcing the rings into their grooves, and hammering the wire flat. All very ingenious and admirable. However, it does beg the question as to why the bronze bearing shell halves only were not removed, leaving the piston in situ. A replacement pair of shells an a few shims would have completed the job with far less effort. Finally, when the pan is replaced, Tom "...tightened the oil tap (?)...." Oh dear. It looks like Steinbeck's research was a little out on this one. However, if you look at the described process in the context of the Model T Ford, it make sense - the oil cap, the process in replacing a direct metal rod bearing and the oil tap all fit. Like many of his generation, Steinbeck was immersed in the mysteries of the Model T. This is evidenced by his short piece Farewell My Lovely, a lament on the passing of the Model T. I appears that this intimate knowledege of the machine's bowels may have been inadvertantly transferred to the contemporary Dodge. I suppose he subscribed to the theory that the Dodge was essentially an improved Model T - which in many ways it was (I will now duck to avoid flak from this forum). Anyway, the novel remains a good, if rather depressing, read. I can still recommend it.

Being at that point of the restoration I am just about to buy a battery for my 1925 roadster. The only suitable size available locally is just right for height, meaning that it will be restrained by the wooden insulator under the battery box cover. However, it will have about one inch space at each end and about 3/4 inch at each side. I note that no means of restraint was originally provided for the battery. However, it was contained in a wooden case. Being concerned that some form of mechanical constraint such as a bracket could mean that vibration is transferred to the battery, I realise that it must have some movement. By the same token I am worried that the battery I am buying has a little too much. Does anyone have experience in this area? Am I worrying unnecessarily? What about some rubber jammed down the sides or a wooden locating frame? All suggestions gratefully accepted. Thanks.

Vern Are you there? I sent you an e-mail last week concerning the availablity of a red fan belt for my 1925 series. Is your spam filter still overactive? Please send me a PM. Thanks Tony

For 1918 I think you are looking for a Briggs and Stratton key rather than a Clum.

They are attached to the floorboards and form part of the surrounds for the linoleum covering. My car did not have either the surrounds or the linoleum, which I suspect were dropped after the 1924 series (advice please). However, in the interests of a practical floor covering I have chosen to go with the earlier style (and it looks good too). There is 1924 tourer currently listed on Ebay with a clear picture of the floorboards and the surrounds. PLEASE help.

I am still looking for aluminium transmission lock and gearlever floorboard surrounds for my 1925 DB roadster. Has ANYBODY got these items? Thank you in anticipation. Tony

Jan Are you still out there? I seem to have lost you in our protracted conversation about a transmission lock surround. Do you still have the offending item? Tony

Thanks Jan Can you let me know how much you want for the surround ASAP as I will be overseas for three weeks from Saturday. Regards Tony

Jan Please check your PM. Thanks Tony

This is an act of desperation. I've made several attempts to bend up an aluminium surround for the floorboard hole through which the transmission lock of my 1925 roadster protrudes. All have been failures, with the best looking like the veritable train wreck. Does anyone out there have an original, which I assume, is one piece like the surround for the clutch release grease cup. To be frank, I have never seen an original other than in the Book of Instruction. I am prepared to lay out an appropriate number of Australian dollars (which are currently worth nearly as much as the US variety) for a good example. All responses will be gratefully received. Thank you.

There is a reasonable likeness of this bracket on the lubrication chart pasted in the back of the relevant Book of Information (my edition is November 1924). The bracket is a forging which has a triangular base and and a kinked tapered extension onto which the tailpipe is attached. Pity, I saw one of these for the first time at Bendigo swap meet last week end. What I would like to know is what the bracket on my early 1925 should look like. Unlike the 1924 setup, the tailpipe is retained by a circular bracket in front of the axle (which I have) and most probably another bracket above the petrol tank. However, there are only two holes and these are on the panel flange either side of the strap bolt.