TonyAus

Yes - that is an original valve. Looks like someone has used some steam valve packing in it. The composite cork washers I suggested in an earier post should go above the brass washer and seat in the gland nut. To fit the cork, drive out the cross bar and lift off the gland nut.

The radiator badge is soldered to a saucer-shaped friction fitting driven into the radiator shell. It can be removed by carefully driving the the whole assembly out from the rear.

The valve packing should be cork. Cut a new one out of a couple of thicknesses of cork composite gasket material using two wad punches - small one first so the cork is a tight fit on the valve stem and a larger one to complete the washer.

According to the Book of Information, the four point switch wiring is: Head - two wires (headlamps left and right) and left hand end of dimmer coil) Dim - right hand end of dimmer coil Bat - one wire (ammeter) Rear- two wires (rear lamp and instrument board lamp Coil (or Mag) - one wire (distributor or magneto) Park - two wires (right and left parking lamps). The book (may 1925)and corresponding illustration does not mention a horn terminal. I assume that the horn was isolated by the ignition switch and perhaps this was deleted in later production. The wiring diagram shows the horn going throught the ammeter. The stop light wire is not connected to the light switch - it goes from the ammeter through the stop light switch. The light switch will move without a key. When the key is in the off position it grounds out the ignition. There should be a Clum key number on the face of the lock barrel (DBXX) - check with Meyers, Romar or Ebay for a key.

This switch was probably put in to meet the 1930s registration requirement that tail lights had to be controlled by an outside switch. The theory was that one could not extinguish the tail light from inside the car whilst being pursued by the authorities and thus make an escape!! Ditch it.

The wire in your 1923 should be covered with mid-brown cotton - with the exception of the tail light wire which is armoured. Colour for the purpose of identifying individual wires is a non-issue, as is use of a loom. All the wires are point-to point with some protection afforded by one inch tar impregnated primary loom down each side of the cowl and half inch carrying the headlight wires. The Book of Information has both a wiring diagram and a most useful ghost view of the layout. All you need is the wire, primary loom and terminals. I believe that Meyers can supply them. The only thing you need to watch is that moden terminals are thinner than the originals. This means that the terminal screws on the light switch protrude into the switch mechanism producing some interesting lighting effects, including no light at all! Shortenining the screws or fitting thick spring washers sloves the problem

Looks to me like a violent collision between an early chassis and a 1923 series. The engine is most likely 1923 also as engine numbers ran about 60,000 past chassis numbers at that time. The 20" wheels are 1925 series. A horn button on the centre of the steering wheel would also indicate 1923. Are you sure the first digit of the chassis chassis number is 1 and not 7? While the doors certainly look like Holden the rest is probably a semi-professional ute job on a tourer. To my knowledge Holden did not build something like this for the Dodge chassis - they were too busy knocking out tourers and roadsters.

The correct style wire hose clamps are available from Meyers. I got mine off old Hoover washing machines. Other brands of washing machine may also use them - consult your local dump. Tony

I have a pair - send me a PM. Tony

This info comes from Chambers, Dave: 1914-1964 Dodge Brothers First 50 Years, Antique Automoble, November 1964, p16.

From car number A512-995 (late January 1926).

Bernie If the degraded wiring was rubber covered you might try soaking the whole mess in white spirit for a couple of weeks. This will soften the rubber. If cotton covered over the rubber and the cotton is sticking you could inject some hydrochloric acid into the tube. Another thought is to boil it in a strong caustic soda solution. Best of luck Tony

I order mine through. Autobarn. Any Penrite dealer, including Repco and Supercheap should be able to order it - just ask. You will need two one litre containers as on the recommended mix a four cylinder Dodge takes about 1.25 litres. The remaining 750ml is handy for top-ups when your water pump leaks.

I use Penrite Classic Coolant - a corosion inhibiter that does not contain an antifreeze component (ethyl glycol). Antifreeze has a habit of finding its way out of any slightly imperfect joints. Check out the Penrite website for more details.

After three days the surface of the bump stop has started to crumble - but the whole part remains pliable. Looks like some caution might be in order.

Latest report. Soaking a small hardened bump stop in white spirit for 24 hours resulted in significant softening. No sign of swelling or disintegration so far - will try it for another 24 hours and see what happens.

There is a wiring diagram on the DB Club A/Asia site http://www.dodgebrosclub-australasia.asn.au/docs/direction%20Indicator.pdf

The stuff I used is branded "Digger's White Spirits", marketed locally in a range incuding turps, methylated spirit, shellite etc. I think your local hardware or paint store should carry it as a dry cleaning/brush cleaning sovent - possibly under the name of Stoddard Spirit. As a first cautious step I applied it to the rubber by brush, reapplying when dry (about an hour or when I remembered). The results were good after a couple of days. Next step is to try soaking. I expect that too long might result in swelling and ultimate disintergration so care might be needed. Will report back.

Great news - the stoddard spirit/white spirit works. Several brushings over a couple of days softened a hardended fuel filler grommet that I had lying around. Next atempt will be on some hardended floor mats that I need to preserve. Looks like this could be a cheaper alternative. Tony

Just Google "Lestoil". I suspect WD40 might have a similar effect given its high proportion of stoddard spirit. However, you would probably have to remove the oil reisdue.

I may have cracked this one. Not being sure how the pine oil or caustic soda in Lestoil would soften rubber I checked out stoddard spirit (white spirit). The instructions for this product say that it should not be brought into contact with rubber. From this I assume it is a solvent of rubber and that careful application would have a softening effect. Not having access to the magic Lestoil here in Australia, I will try neat white spirit. Watch this space for results.

Got it! Contains pine oil, sodium hydroxide and stoddart spirit. Sounds like WD40 with attitude. Must be great for your complexion. No wonder the rubber yields to its gentle caresses. :eek:

What on Earth is lestoil?

In Australia this stuff is known as Shellite - essential if your car has a surface carburettor (pre 1900 Benz, De Dion etc). A surface carburettor is just a tank and the engine draws fumes from the surface of the fuel. You also have 50 gallons of lighter fuel - lung cancer guarenteed by the time you get through it. And it makes excellent (if slightly dangerous) parts washer fluid. Just avoid naked flames: My bonny lay over the gas tank The level of contents to see I lit up a match to assist her Oh bring back my bonny to me Merry Christmas Tony

To answer your question - no, you will not harden old body steel by quenching from red heat. The low carbon content will not allow this to happen. Hardening only occurs with high carbon steels. Not sure about modern high tensile body steels - these may require specialised treatment. Heat shrinking is a valuable skill to learn. Stretch some scrap steel and practice using small heat areas - no larger than 3/8". Hammer the surrounding stretched metal into the red hot area using a flat backing dolly. Quench with a wet rag just as each heat loses its red colour. Work around the centre of the stretched area and gradually outwards. Work slowly and use your hand to feel the surface as you go (after quenching of course). Take it easy and you will be rewarded with the satisfaction of mastering a traditional skill which produces impressive results. Then you will want to learn lead loading.....