TonyAus

That's a Ded-Ezy tyre pump. Compound cylinders and fixed to the running board. All you need is a hose which will reach all four wheels.

Replace BOTH gaskets - either side of the inner tank.

Bit late now, but super glue would have been less messy than the mastic. It's the answer for fastening rubber.

An easier way to get fine feeds is to angle the topslide and use the carriage for longitudinal movement. If the topslide is set at 45 degrees, one thou of movement on the dial will give you .000707" infeed (sine 45 degrees). Similarly, setting the topslide at 30 degrees will give .0005" infeed per thou and 20 degrees .000342". This should be fine enough for grinding.

You may not be aware that Australia's two most populous States (and the Australian Capital Territory) are currently locked down due to Covid. Rising case numbers do not indicate that this situation will end in the foreseeable future. While this may mean a lot more time to work at home it does restrict expeditions to drag in candidates ripe for restoration (if they still exist).

Have you considered the possibility that one or more valves might be sticking in their guides when hot?

Make sure that the brake levers all lean backwards and pull toward centre. If they pull over centre all leverage is lost and little braking occurs. Also the brake linings should be adjusted to allow .015" clearance from the drums (use a feeler gauge). This will give you even braking on both wheels and avoid dragging. Start all adjustments from the back and end with the pedal. The pedal should be about 1" from the toeboard when the brakes lock the wheels. All this is set out in the Book of Information. Make sure the starter contacts are square and that you have a good earth.

Probably a bit late now but an alternative would have been to obtain suitable ball bearings. Anneal them in order to drill the holes and re-harden and temper.

You have the rubber back to front. The long side should be inside the car. That way the top and bottom sashes can fold out with the rubber sitting on the bottom one.

The correct size is 5.25 x 21. (Chambers, Dave. 1914-1964 Dodge Brothers First 50 Years. Antique Automobile November 1964.

There should be four pieces in the felt set. One goes in the nose of the pan to bear on the front engine mount surround, two in the channels at rear which flare out under the block and the fourth is glued with gasket cement between the grooves on the rear main bearing cap. This one bears against the rear pan baffle. Any oil that manages to get past it is returned to the pan by the pipe in the baffle.

Do you have equivalent info on front springs?

Thanks Bob. Curiosity satisfied.

Can anyone tell me if the air pump for the fuel feed used in 1915 is driven from the number four exhaust cam or does it have its own cam? In other words, is the 1915 camshaft different to those used later when vacuum fuel feed was introduced? Thanks in anticipation

He was robbed! This one was 25 pounds in 1957.

Another thought. Some time ago I read an article in The Horseless Carriage Gazette about making a replacement water pump impellor by CNC for a very early car. The make escapes me but the original had straight fins and the replacements were curved. This article explained the rationale for the change in terms of hydrodynamics. It appears to have worked. Unfortunately I don't have access to the Gazette due to the current lockdown (club archives) but it would have been published sometime in the last 15 years.

The impellor was most probably fixed with a standard taper pin (1/4 inch to the foot taper). I recently dealt with one on my 1925 Dodge - which was also offset to the shaft. When replacing the shaft I turned up a stainless steel taper pin, reamed the hole with a matching taper reamer and fixed it with Loctite. Should be good for some time.

For those interested in an informative read the author of America Adopts the Automobile 1895-1910 is J J (JIm) Flink, then Professor of Transportation and Cultural Studies at the University of California. Some of his other transport related stuff is also worth chasing up. Unfortunately I understand that his interests subsequently moved on to the history of jazz.

An easy one. This arrangement when used in the context of steam engines is called a Scotch Yoke. Not that its origin lies in Scotland but in that the yoke is scotched (restrained). What you may know as a chock (to stop your wheeled vehicle running away) is in steam parlance a scotch. I also have a vague recollection that Subaru has recently used this device in a power steering pump or something similar. Was a patent granted? I'm pretty sure that the use of the Scotch Yoke goes well back into the nineteenth century.

With regard to downshifting , engaging neutral brings the main shaft and layshaft into mesh relatively easily because of the oil drag. Revving the engine at this point raises the speed (inertia) of both shafts. As the lower gear is selected there will be a disparity when the layshaft starts to slow. However, the higher the layshaft inertia the less this disparity will be and the better the chance of a silent mesh of gears. At least this is my theory as it appears to work .

With regard to easier gear changing I can see a problem of logic. From practical experience the technique for changing up is to slow the gearbox input shaft. This can be achieved by releasing the clutch, backing off the throttle, engaging neutral (all in one action) and re-engaging the clutch. After the flywheel has slowed the engine and the still connected gearbox input shaft the clutch can be disengaged/re-engaged and the upward gearshift made without clashing the gears. To change down the input shaft must be speeded up by revving the engine quickly while the gearbox is in neutral. In theory, if the flywheel is lightened changing down should be easier as the engine will pick up revs quicker. However it will make changing up harder as the engine and input shaft will take more time to slow down. You win some and lose some with a net result of zero. Please feel free to correct me on this matter.

You may not be aware that it is currently illegal to carry unrestrained children under seven years. Just as well you were not spotted by the authorities.

The correct technique is to position the panel over the timber and use a very sharp punch when the nails go. The punch should penetrate the steel just enough to start a nail. This way the steel is slightly sunk into the timber and also grabs the nail. Of course you should use flat head nails. Both the timber and steel should be well sealed to avoid rusting in the joints. You might consider a sealer such as Cuprinol followed by an oil base primer and paint for the timber. If into overkill you could use a rust killer undercoat on the steel followed by wipe of cavity wax.

Oops, correction. I missed out by 100,000. My reply should read between 12 June (A-120000) and 26 June (A-130000) 1924.

Not 1916. Car number A-127447 ( the A indicating one million) was assembled between 22 January (A-20000) and 6 February (A-30000) 1924.