36humpback Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 I have an Autolite 2 post, with ground screw, generator (GGW6001J) on my panel. There are no markings on/near the posts to tell which one is which. I cleaned the generator prior to this post. I am installing a new wiring harness that was made for this generator. There was no harness when I got the panel. How can I tell which post is which? Thanks, Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordy Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 (edited) Funny - I just bought one exactly the same at a swap meet today. Pull the end plate where the brushes are. One of the brushes will be grounded and the other will go to one of the terminals - That one is output. The other terminal will connect to the field coils. OR disconnect the brushes and use a meter on ohms. One post to ground will show nothing = output - the other post to ground will show a couple of ohms (between 3 and 6 at a guess) that post is field. Edited January 15, 2023 by Fordy (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 If you measure from each terminal to ground with an ohmmeter, the one that reads less ohms should be the Armature terminal. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 Or take the inspection band off and see which one connects to the brush directly opposite the grounded brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticbuicks Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 or possibly if you look close will see "F" and "G" lightly stamped by terminal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
36humpback Posted January 15, 2023 Author Share Posted January 15, 2023 1 hour ago, Fordy said: Funny - I just bought one exactly the same at a swap meet today. Pull the end plate where the brushes are. One of the brushes will be grounded and the other will go to one of the terminals - That one is output. The other terminal will connect to the field coils. OR disconnect the brushes and use a meter on ohms. One post to ground will show nothing = output - the other post to ground will show a couple of ohms (between 3 and 6 at a guess) that post is field. Does the one you bought have any marks on the body telling which is which? Thanks, Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
36humpback Posted January 15, 2023 Author Share Posted January 15, 2023 Thanks to everyone for the replys. I'll have to check using each suggestion to find out. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordy Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 Hi Bob no markings visible but I have pulled the end to look. The top post on mine is a smaller diameter and is Field connection. The bottom post is about twice the diameter and is the output. The brushes on what I have are fairly worn - do you know a part number and source for these? Also what does it actually fit? I am intending to use it on an old English Ford if it is ok to rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 (edited) Looks like these will fit. Includes 55-58 GGW. https://www.hiltopautoparts.com/product/nos-mopar-generator-brush-set-many-1937-58-chrysler-plymouth-dodge-desoto-models/ Seems there all over the web. Look around for the best price. Edited January 15, 2023 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTR Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 Usually on all or at least most Autolite/MoPar (6V) generators following details can be used to figure out how to wire them: - Larger of the two stud terminals is for Armature (often also referred as A or Arm). This can also be referred as B (as in Bat or Battery). The wire (Red ?) for this terminal is usually thickest of the three and has bigger hole in its end connector. - Smaller of the two stud terminals is for F (as in Field) and its wire (Green ?) is thinner & the hole in the connector is smaller. - The screw (in OPs picture) is for G (as in Ground) and it’s wire (Black ?) is also thinner with smaller hole connector. Also, suggested by someone else, you may look for stampings of “A” or “ARM, “B” or “BAT” and “G” or “GRD” near or next to each terminal point on the generator housing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 That part number on your generator is from the 1950s not 1930s. My 1937 Dodge 1/2 ton had the original setup of a three brush generator with a cut-out relay mounted to it. Your new wiring harness may need to be modified to use this generator and it’s external regulator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 I still have some AEA parts books and they show your generator number for early 1950s Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge car applications. The regulator used with it is Auto-Lite VBE-6001A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
36humpback Posted January 15, 2023 Author Share Posted January 15, 2023 16 hours ago, Fordy said: Hi Bob no markings visible but I have pulled the end to look. The top post on mine is a smaller diameter and is Field connection. The bottom post is about twice the diameter and is the output. The brushes on what I have are fairly worn - do you know a part number and source for these? Also what does it actually fit? I am intending to use it on an old English Ford if it is ok to rebuild. Thanks. I have no idea on the brushes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
36humpback Posted January 15, 2023 Author Share Posted January 15, 2023 7 hours ago, TerryB said: That part number on your generator is from the 1950s not 1930s. My 1937 Dodge 1/2 ton had the original setup of a three brush generator with a cut-out relay mounted to it. Your new wiring harness may need to be modified to use this generator and it’s external regulator. I had the wiring harness specifically built for this particular generator (I have two of them) and corresponding voltage regulator that I have. I knew it was a later generator. Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
36humpback Posted January 15, 2023 Author Share Posted January 15, 2023 5 hours ago, TerryB said: I still have some AEA parts books and they show your generator number for early 1950s Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge car applications. The regulator used with it is Auto-Lite VBE-6001A. That is the voltage regulator I have. I'm just trying to figure out how to mount the wiring harness where. (what goes inside the firewall and how). Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 As mentioned larger stud is the "ARM" The other smaller stud is the "FLD" Typlical of 40's/50's MoPar generators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 30 minutes ago, 36humpback said: I had the wiring harness specifically built for this particular generator (I have two of them) and corresponding voltage regulator that I have. I knew it was a later generator. Bob Missed that in your original post! Hope all goes well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 (edited) What vehicle are we talking about? Is this a 30s Mopar of some sort? Probably nothing goes inside the firewall. The only clue I have seen so far is your username. Is this a 1936 somethingorother? So, going on only that, a mid 1930s Mopar probably had a third brush generator with a cutout as @TerryB mentioned in his post, or a third brush generator with a voltage regulator and cutout (a 2-relay device). In either case, I would expect the cutout or regulator to be mounted on top of the generator. The only generator wiring would be one wire going inside the car on it's way to the ammeter. It might hit something else first, like a light switch or an ignition switch. Now I would expect a 1950s setup to be a 2-brush generator with a 3-relay regulator, meant NOT to be mounted to the generator. 1930s cars that do have a regulator like this usually have it mounted on the outside of the firewall, up high, on the same side of the car as the generator. That is also likely true of the 1950s car the generator was meant for. 33 minutes ago, 36humpback said: I had the wiring harness specifically built for this particular generator (I have two of them) and corresponding voltage regulator that I have. I knew it was a later generator. Bob The location of the regulator now depends on how the person who made the wiring harness made it. Look for the following wires. The wire going inside the car powering everything, that came from something mounted on top of the third brush generator before, is now fed by the "BAT" terminal of the regulator, probably mounted up on the firewall(?). In addition to that you should have: 1) A wire from the armature terminal on the generator to the "ARM" or "GEN" terminal on the regulator. This should be a big one, like the wire going inside the car from the "BAT" terminal. 2) A wire from the field terminal on the generator to the field terminal on the regulator. This is probably smaller wire. 3) An optional ground wire from the case of the generator to under one of the mounting feet of the regulator. Not all systems had this but a lot of them did, and it is a really good idea. When you lay the harness out it is probably going to be obvious where the regulator has to go. Good luck. This later system is probably worlds ahead of a third brush system. Edited January 16, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordy Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 Just be aware that the generator has an externally grounded field setup. It had me stumped on the one I have as I am used to a voltage being applied to the F terminal - not grounding it. Whatever regulator that you use needs to be capable of handling that particular configuration. I have my local auto electrical store trying to source me a set of brushes. If they fail, I can get them made at a reasonable figure (cheaper than buying of eBay and freight to Australia) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 2 hours ago, Fordy said: Just be aware that the generator has an externally grounded field setup. It had me stumped on the one I have as I am used to a voltage being applied to the F terminal - not grounding it. Not a General Motors man, hunh? Working on those Ford systems I see. The old A circuit and B circuit generators. GM typically is A circuit system and Ford is typically B circuit system. The polarizing method is also different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937hd45 Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 I'll never understand how one picks the answer that may be correct, will all the wrong ones cause a fire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 (edited) Wrong could damage the regulator. If you know what system you have it can be looked up in a manual. We know from earlier posts this generator and regulator are Autolite parts for an early 50s Chrysler product. Edited January 16, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 Right, one does not need to know A or B circuit, as long as they follow shop manual instructions. Problem is internet advice that does not account for two different systems in giving advice on generator polarization. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTR Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 19 hours ago, 1937hd45 said: I'll never understand how one picks the answer that may be correct, will all the wrong ones cause a fire? That's the crux of the interweb forums. People are either too lazy or stupid (or both ?) to realize discussion forums, including this, should be the absolute last resort for asking technical questions, no matter how simple they may seem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 32 minutes ago, TTR said: That's the crux of the interweb forums. People are either too lazy or stupid (or both ?) to realize discussion forums, including this, should be the absolute last resort for asking technical questions, no matter how simple they may seem. I would tend to disagree that as a blanket statement. Yes there may be a few individuals that may not have perfect expertise, but the vast majority know what they are talking about from experience on this forum. Probably the one weak area might be electrical, but not much. Many individuals have been helped in their endeavors to keep their vehicles running. 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 Heck, we guided a '38 Studebaker front sheet metal and paint repair on this forum! Yes, wheat and chaff need to be separated. Lucky on this forum if a poster makes a proper title for a question many people will chime in. Might be a few wrong answers or guesses, but it will work out. Bad titles that don't make people look mean less respondents, so more chance of issues. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordy Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 On 1/16/2023 at 1:57 PM, Frank DuVal said: Not a General Motors man, hunh? Working on those Ford systems I see. The old A circuit and B circuit generators. GM typically is A circuit system and Ford is typically B circuit system. The polarizing method is also different. Don't let my name fool you! Any and all cars interest me, Had Chevs, Buicks, Vauxhall, Singer, Holden (Aussie GM) Fords and an array of other stuff, Currently have Hupmobile (x5), English Fords (x2), Triumph Spitfire, Holden pickups (x2) and a Nissan Skyline 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
36humpback Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share Posted January 20, 2023 Thanks to all for your input. I've done a bunch of input and checking different ways. So far I've found that the VR I need is a VR2. It is compatible with my generator, most probably out of a 49-54 Dodge Coronet, which takes a VRP-4001A VR. A VR2 is compatible replacement for the VRP. Again, thanks to all. Bob 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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